4g93 pajero io gdi h76w
Just wanted to know if anyone is familiar with these symptoms. Vehicle engine will rev up to 4, 000 rpm in park, and 2,000 rpm in drive. If i try to go past this mark in either modes I will get a spewting from the muffler. Other than that the vehicle drives pretty smooth, no muffler noise or smell, no black smoke, unless i try to go past these marks. I recently replaced the maf sensor, and i tested the egr with my voltmeter and it appears to be working. I tested my Throttle servo motor and got a resistance reading of 2 ohms, which is out of the requirement field however the throttle position sensor readings are fine, and the motor appears to work based off pedal testing. Any ideas???
I removed the egr, and
I removed the egr, and cleaned it, tested the original one, and still put in a new one. the fuel pressure appears to be fine. I'm not missing. I removed the coolant sensor as it was faulty so I have the fan running on continuous. Not certain if that will cause a lack of power, although i know with other vehicles it can. I'm not getting a popcorn muffler sound just a sound like its tryna push out exhaust but is unable to.
A severely restricted intake.
I'd say you have a severe restriction somewhere, something is not allowing the engine to breathe freely, and the GDI engines are notorious for carbon deposits on the backs of the intake valves and in the intake passages.
You may be able to confirm this with a borescope camera, but it'll mean remove the intake, which I can tell you from personal experience is not a simple task.
I have codes 91, 79, and 14.
I have codes 91, 79, and 14. Tested them however and they appear to be working, so not sure why im still getting them. Tried resetting the ecu, but still getting the codes, not sure if I am resetting it correctly. My condenser is not in operation atm, in case that is of any help.
I should note that I believe
I should note that I believe the throttle position sensors can give two readings depending on which year yours is, one is under 2.5 range, and the other is over 3.5 range. I believe my tps is for under 2.5 for newer tps. I could be wrong, but there are two manuals for these. below is the value reading for newer tps. I have a friend who uses the same vehicle and his reading is the same as mine, and his works fine as does my based off the smooth resistance change based off these tests.
I followed the procedure
I followed the procedure correctly. I have a second tps here that I know is working and i get the same readings. I am fairly certain it is not the tps.
edit: I unplugged the battery overnight, and checked the engine codes with a pin, now i'm just getting a blinking check engine line. Idle is fine as usual and same conditions as posted in initial post. any ideas?(checking manual)
Are you focusing on the TPS itself
and perhaps ignoring what the ECU is sensing?
A code pointing to a specific sensor does not mean that sensor is defective, it means the ECU is not "seeing" what it considers a valid signal from that sensor, it could be a wiring (harness) problem, it could be ECU input problem, and I believe the trouble shooting flow charts for each of those codes also calls out the throttle valve controller as pssibly defective.
Update I am only getting
Update I am only getting error code 21(engine coolant temperature sensor) as of right now. I tested terminal one voltage got a good reading of close to 5v. Measured continuity of second terminal to earth end point, also got a good reading. Just a quick recap. I've already cleaned out all my intake valves, throttle body, egr valve and problem persists; trying to go past 2k rpm in drive, to no avail. Can reach 4k in park. You asked my compression tests numbers earlier, they were in range as far as I can remember(can't remember exactly, the first cylinder wanted a bit of oil and that brought it back to normal).
edit/update: I also tested the pedal position sensor, good reading on all terminal checks. This one is very puzzling to me. I am starting to point towards the coil packs, is there a more efficient way to test them other then pulling out the feed whilst in idle?
Your concept of a good reading may be different from mine.
If you had to add oil to any cylinder to get the numbers "within range" you have either worn bores, worn rings or both, and in my experience the coil packs generally either work or they don't, if you have a scope and an inductive ignition probe you can compare them to one another.
Over the time I've had my car (just shy of ten years), I've had a number of failed coil packs, both OEM and after market - I've had one igniter transister fail (in an aftermarket unit) and a couple of the OEM units burn through the casing and arc to the plug tube - the one exception to this eother work or not rule has been an OEM pack that runs well at low speed and under load, but will display an intermittent miss fire during light load cruise - it will run all day long and if you're "lead footing" the vehicle, you'll never notice the missfire, but sit at around 80km/h in top gear with a partially open throttle and every once in a while, you'll feel a barely perceptible shake.
From what i recall it was
From what i recall it was within range as far as the pressure, it just was not at the same pressure as the rest so I added oil to bring it closer to their readings. I am going to do another compression test on thursday(we are on 24 hour lockdown 4 days per week). You have any links to some affordable coil packs. Or you have any you could sell me?
Doesn't really matter
There is a permissible "variation between cylinders" specified - once you're out of that, you're out of spec - whether or not you've added oil, and if you add oil to only one cylinder to achieve an "in spec" result, all you're really doing is fooling yourself.
Regarding coil packs, if you're in Guyana I can tell you where to go, if you're not, then try megazip.net or amayama.com
I am in st.kitts
I am in st.kitts. I was in the permissable range, but i wanted them to be closer in range to eachother. I literally added like a tsp of oil or less. If it is a case where the hole is bad, what would be the next step and would it be difficult?
update: I just took out the high pressure fuel pump. Going to give it a clean up and see if that helps. Wish me luck.
Adding oil changes the test results, not fix the problem.
When you do a compression test, you're essentially testing the engine's ability to pump air, if the numbers are low, adding oil helps reduce leakage past the rings, it's done primarily to determine where the leak is - if the numbers increase, it's past the rings, so worn bores or rings, if it doesn't it's probably past the valves, so you move on to a leak down test, and you listen at the intake, exhaust & oil filler to see if you can hear the air "leaking down".
Adding oil changes the numbers, but it doesn't fix any problems, so, as I said, you're only fooling yourself - the compression test needs to be done with engine warm, battery fully charged, all spark plugs removed, the FI system disabled (unplug the crank position sensor) and the throttle plate fully open.
If the numbers are low and increase when oil is added, it's an indication of leakage past the rings, either worn bore, worn rings or possibly both.
If the bores are worn, you'll need to rebore and fit oversized pistons, and I doubt you're going to find anything for the GDI engines other than OEM, if it's the rings, you may be able to fit new rings (after market are available) and hone the bores - the only way you'll know which of the two paths you need to follow is to have the bores measured (or miked) by an experienced machinist.
I hate to say this, to sound "judgemental", but, you're coming across as not familiar with the basic mechanical tests, with how they are performed, why they are performed, and how to interpret the results - I'm beginning to think you're in way over your head, and you need to find a knowledgable & trust worthy mechanic to assist you.
I was unaware of the concept
I was unaware of the concept behind it. Don't be judgmental, I'm still learning, .Thanks a lot for your help man. I am cleaning out the high pressure fuel pump right now. When I first bought this car no mechanic could get it working. I figured out how to fix it just by reading, and examining the diagram. So if you help me I will learn. I'm not afraid of complexity, it's fun for me.
Syndicate
What exactly is
What exactly is a spewting from the muffler?
And for what it's worth, I'm currently daily driving a 1.8 GDI 4G93 H76W Pajero iO, that I'd say I'm reasonably familiar with - I'm fairly certain I can pull to the redline in the lower gears, but I don't know that I've ever tried to do it in neutral or park. My car in an automatic, so it's essentially a case of "wide open throttle" on an open road and letting it change where it will, but it does run like the proverbial bat out of hell, and shifts up somewhere around the 6000 rpm point.
Testing the EGR with a meter will tell you very little - the system is probably blocked solid with carbon, and if it isn't I suggest inserting a blanking plate into one of the joints where it comes around the back of the cylinder head - the GDI engines have a known issue with carbon deposits on the intake valves, and that's the primary source of the carbon.