Bullbar design (winch bar)
Pajero IO Winch bars from Brazil
Im trying to track down these bars, might be easyer than making my own, ortho im sure the price for freight alone will cost more than making one myself.
I found a link to a shop with a heap of photos of other IOs wearing them here http://www.4wdbrasil.com.br/website/index.php?option=com_content&view=ar... Just click on the mitsubishi link. I have emailed them asking where there from, time will tell.
Looks like they might also do a nice rear bar
Im drawing up some bash
Im drawing up some bash plates for my IO at the moment, I work for the family company and we do a lot of this kind of work, so i can just tack this job on and get it done pretty cheap id say.
I want to cover most of the underside, 1 bash plate, then a second to cover down to the tranny/transfer case, then another to cover whatever else i feel i need to?
Im not sure how much of the 3door is the same? Id imagine at least the bash plate and the transfer section would be the same between the 3 and 5door?
Ill chuck the design up and get feed back before I get them made. I personally don't want any hols in the bash plate section like most seem to have, they just let sand etc in and can end up causing damage if they(and they do) fill up between the bash plate and sump/belts etc.
Hi, This Pajero TR4 (Pinin ou
Hi,
This Pajero TR4 (Pinin ou IO for you) with KAISER adverting is mine. The bullbar is developed by 4WD Brasil - Team Four Wheel and designed by Jorge Serrano.
For complete description of this preparation, see: http://mitsubishibrasil.com.br/portal/news/mitsubishi/pajero-tr4-armada-...
More photos in: https://picasaweb.google.com/cdvonline
Bullbar made steel. Engine and transmission protection made aluminum. Nitro suspension with external cilinder (www.mitsubishibrasil.com.br), worked motor with NOS (Nitrous Oxide System), power chip by SFI CHIPS Performance (www.sfichips.com.br), Toyo Tires, Suspension lift 2", diferential lockers (front & rear), 12.000lbs winch, special seat, special exhaust, multimedia system and more...
Tks,
Marcio Medina.
contato@mitsubishibrasil.com.br
Awesome! Thanks Marcio, Love
Awesome! Thanks Marcio,
Love the TR4 you have there!
Is there a website for the bulbar designed by Jorge Serrano? Id like to see what the cost to import one is!
Are you happy with the KAISER Lockers? Do they work well as a locker off road as well as good manners on road?
I personally think they have the potential to be better in off road performance than an ARB style air locker?
I hope to install my front locker soon and find out for myself 
Bash Plate Update
Im drawing up some bash plates for my IO at the moment, I work for the family company and we do a lot of this kind of work, so i can just tack this job on and get it done pretty cheap id say.
I want to cover most of the underside, 1 bash plate, then a second to cover down to the tranny/transfer case, then another to cover whatever else i feel i need to?
Im not sure how much of the 3door is the same? Id imagine at least the bash plate and the transfer section would be the same between the 3 and 5door?
Ill chuck the design up and get feed back before I get them made. I personally don't want any hols in the bash plate section like most seem to have, they just let sand etc in and can end up causing damage if they(and they do) fill up between the bash plate and sump/belts etc.
Hello Glen, any updates on the bash plates? Pictures, drawings ect????
Snowed under with other work
Snowed under with other work at the moment 
But this is high on my list as I just picked up an Aldi winch today, cant go wrong for $399.
so its either modify my TJM to take the winch or build a new one.
Thinking about building a millweld style bar even? Tough looking, but maybe not what I want for the iO http://www.millweld.com/a/Photo_Gallery_GU
I Wish they were my headlights! If i had the late model or ZR iO I would get some in from Brazil and swap them over. Bonnet shape is diferent on the first model iO :(
i want a front bar too
I Wish they were my headlights! If i had the late model or ZR iO I would get some in from Brazil and swap them over. Bonnet shape is diferent on the first model iO :(
maybe ill look into getting some then lol.
well whatever you do with the front bar, be sure to keep us posted, coz after youve made one, i want one too.
for a reasonable price of course. wouldnt expect it for nothin...
tr4 lights
I Wish they were my headlights! If i had the late model or ZR iO I would get some in from Brazil and swap them over. Bonnet shape is diferent on the first model iO :(
really? from what i've seen the 1999 io's and the 2002 io'shave the same headlights, it's the TR4's built after 2002 that have the flatter top edge.
Winch time?
I've started playing with this.
It's a Ramsey 5000 LB winch. Stripped, deburred & repacked the planetary gears. Test run. OK.
Weighed in @ 20 kg's with 25 m of steel cable fitted. (in the bin) That's pretty light I thought?
You cant tell by the photo, but that is sitting right in behind the number plate bracket.
Looks promising as an internal setup.
Where does it end?
My friend has just bought the
My friend has just bought the aldi winch too. Word around the traps is that they are good once stripped and greased properly. And apparently the internal parts are copied off a reputable brand (can't remember which one), so replacement parts are easy to get.
That's just what I've heard.
It depends on who's building it.
ARB bars have the winch on a separate mount against the inside front face of the bar so the cable passes between the mounting feet of the winch - making for a very strong assembly - other brands use a tray which mounts the winch "feet down" so you're pulling at right angles - I'm told these trays can twist and cause the winch castings to crack.
I take a close look at winch bars every opportunity I get - no one makes anything decent for either of my cars (I have a Pajero iO and a Grand Vitara), so I'm collecting design ideas to do my own.
I had a look under the front
I had a look under the front of the iO today to try and attach a bolt on recovery point... But I couldn't find anything to bolt it to!
Has anyone fitted recovery points? Or used the welded on points for a snatch recovery? I'm told that I can use an equaliser strap between these 2 points to get snatched out. I have used a single one of these points to be gently pulled up a rocky section of a steep hill with no problems, but there was far less force than being snatched from a sucky bog hole or deep sand.
On another point, the rear recovery point (behind the little panel in the rear bumper) was used to get out of a bog, and the snatching action bent this right up against the chassis. Doesn't seem too solid. My tow bar is only a car type, not a proper hitch one, so I'm not sure if I could get away with a shackle through the hole where the tow ball goes...
I hope someone on here gets a good front bar design finished soon so I can get one made for mine!
Regarding the winch
Regarding the winch mounting,
I just sat the winch wherever it sat. This was only the first step of many, involved in doing any job.
Properly integrated mounting for both the chassis & the winch proper, will be mocked & trialed then fabricated in due course(i can't see it mounted to the cross member). Whether this results in a 'full bar' or the preferable hidden cradle is only a guess atm?
On snatching etc.
Always pull of both front points, twisted chassis otherwise.
I have snatched others a few times from the pin through my factory tow hitch with no issue.
Oh I see. Didnt think it
Oh I see. Didnt think it would be as easy as bolting it there!
Both front ones? I thought they were tie downs and that they shouldnt be used for recovery at all. This could be false information I was fed.
Turns out a guy I went to school with is now a metal worker with access to all sorts of equipment, I am going to hit him up to make me a winch bar and a rear bar for the io. Heres hoping he will.....
I'm not with you on your
I'm not with you on your first comment. I don't think the winch will be mounted to that cross member, hence the development of at least a cradle.
You are most probably correct. Those loops probably are shipping tie down points, however quite strong if not ideal. Any bolt on 'recovery point' will have no better purchase than these, without modification to the rails I would imagine? You use what you have & two are better than one.
I have been snatched out once or twice like this with no damage. That's all I know and am no expert.
Let us know how you go with the bars.
Hows the front bar going???
Hey glen. Just wondering whats happening with the front bar project. i think before i do any mods i should invest in a front bar.
ive been looking for the tjm one and cant find it anywhere. been looking around and found one similar, and as it turns out it popped up on overlanders forum with you and bobn in the same thread. funny that ey?!
http://www.dolan.com.au/index.php/Pajero-IO/03/99-12/02-Bull-Bar/flypage...
it looks like its from east coast bars, but im unsure. so i wanted to see how yours is going and when we can expect testing???
cheers.
PS. you know thaat all the work you put into your iO makes everyone want the same stuff you have. problem is not everyones pockets are as deep as yours lol
Lol. my pockets ain't dear. I
Lol. my pockets ain't dear. I paid 7.5k for myiO and it already had the bar and bits on. all I did was add 31s and sup. still cheaper that yours :-)
The designer of that bar is on this forum. I asked about getting one and they just said ARB might be bringing there stuff in. so. but I know there's is no way in hello ARB will bring there iO bars in! Maybe you should organize a GP on the bars. see if we can get a better price. Or. if there is enough interest I can check on the pricing of tooling up to make some the same( pressed)
I prefer the V1 grills, But I
I prefer the V1 grills, But I have seen that bar on all grill designs. They have provision or whatever to suit all iOs.
Freight would cost at least $500 - $700 at a guess, depending on weight. If there were enought of us we could get a container for $3K ish would want 10 or more to make it worth it i think?
Would probably need about 20 to tool up and make new ones id say. Would cost about >$500 each plus tooling at a guess. So might be doable with as little as 10.
That are sexy. but not 2k
That are sexy. but not 2k sexy. until I get a nice pay rise anyway. id rather spend the $ on lockers, tyres, susp and camp gear. ow. and turbo and low range gearing for now. ill just mod mine for winch or make something simple for $ 500 odd I think.
Pinonokio , and some of the other Greeks have witches with there STD front bumpers as KTM is looking to do.
I like this idea. if you ever smash your STD front bar. replace it with a nice steel one then?
Once I have made a new one I can get a price from the guys that do all our laser cutting and bending to see if anyone else is keen?
Your a graphix designer. draw up a sexy looking bar and ill draw up a CAD version. just remember it must br fold/ weldable from flat plate. no fancy curvs.
whats wrong with your design?
That are sexy. but not 2k sexy. until I get a nice pay rise anyway. id rather spend the $ on lockers, tyres, susp and camp gear. ow. and turbo and low range gearing for now. ill just mod mine for winch or make something simple for $ 500 odd I think. Pinonokio , and some of the other Greeks have witches with there STD front bumpers as KTM is looking to do. I like this idea. if you ever smash your STD front bar. replace it with a nice steel one then? Once I have made a new one I can get a price from the guys that do all our laser cutting and bending to see if anyone else is keen? Your a graphix designer. draw up a sexy looking bar and ill draw up a CAD version. just remember it must br fold/ weldable from flat plate. no fancy curvs.
whats wrong with the first one you did. i actually quite like it.
although i love those milweld ones you were talking about
especially the right one
The East Coast Bars cost
The East Coast Bars cost around $1600, and they are just alloy. I'd be far more inclined to import a sexy one for a little bit more, but with $2k I'd be getting a locker instead.
I've been giving this a lot of thought, and I am keen to design and build my own front bar. Does anyone know what ADR's they'd need to comply with?
Is there anything stopping you from cutting multiple shapes out of plate steel and welding them all up as opposed to bending and welding? The top would all be one flat piece, and the other parts could be built off that. Once it is welded the corners could be ground back to a smoth finish.
The other thing I need to know before designing a bar is what the bull bars mount to...? I've never seen an iO with a bullbar up close, so I don't know how they are mounted. Any pics of the TJM bar mounts would be awesome.
I've also been thinking about making some skid plates. I'm thinking checker plate alloy, 3mm+. I've got an idea for 2 plates, one to replace the front, and one to go further back than the tesser ones do, covering the transfer case behind the crossbeam. The checkerplate is for looks mostly, the only issues I can think of is that dirt will stick and the plates might not 'skid' over obstacles as well. Any thoughts on this? Otherwise, Stainless Steel would be pretty tough. Just have to figure out what vents are necessary. I might be able to get some prototypes laser cut on the cheap once I draw it up.
Just a suggestion
The other thing I need to know before designing a bar is what the bull bars mount to...? I've never seen an iO with a bullbar up close, so I don't know how they are mounted. Any pics of the TJM bar mounts would be awesome.
Start by removing the existing bar and take a look to see where that mounts.
I haven't done this with my iO, because putting a front bar on that is not going to happen any time soon, but I have been looking at bar design & mounting with a view to putting one on the front of my Grand Vitara, and in the process I've looked closely at several other peoples work, including ARB - the norm is to mount to the frame rails, possibly with some sort of collapsible "crush mount" for airbag equipped vehicles.
Also - someone asked about ADRs - I couldn't tell you which ADR regs have to be met, but, the general consensus seems to be if it's an air bag equipped vehicle, forget the idea of making your own bar - the cost of getting it certified as ADR compliant isn't worth the trouble for limited numbers, and without certification, the first time you hit someone or something, kiss your insurance coverage goodbye.
I do have air bags, I do not have to comply with ADR regulations and we have no comparable local regs.
ADR's
The East Coast Bars cost around $1600, and they are just alloy. I'd be far more inclined to import a sexy one for a little bit more, but with $2k I'd be getting a locker instead.
I've been giving this a lot of thought, and I am keen to design and build my own front bar. Does anyone know what ADR's they'd need to comply with?
Is there anything stopping you from cutting multiple shapes out of plate steel and welding them all up as opposed to bending and welding? The top would all be one flat piece, and the other parts could be built off that. Once it is welded the corners could be ground back to a smoth finish.
I've also been thinking about making some skid plates. I'm thinking checker plate alloy, 3mm+. I've got an idea for 2 plates, one to replace the front, and one to go further back than the tesser ones do, covering the transfer case behind the crossbeam. The checkerplate is for looks mostly, the only issues I can think of is that dirt will stick and the plates might not 'skid' over obstacles as well. Any thoughts on this? Otherwise, Stainless Steel would be pretty tough. Just have to figure out what vents are necessary. I might be able to get some prototypes laser cut on the cheap once I draw it up.
After writing the ECB ones off as ugly I went down this track about a year ago with a mob here in brisbane that make custom ARB lookalike bars and 5 posters. Main issue is with the Io's with airbags.
The problem is this: The front of your io is designed to crumple at a set rate such that the shock load that triggers your airbag occurs with a sufficiently violent impact - the airbag is then timed so that as you are coming frward it inflates to catch you etc.
If you change the crumple rate in the front with a solid bar etc then one of two things happen:
-) the bar is too rigid and causes the shock to trigger the airbag too soon so when you fly forward the bag has already inflated and has started to deflate and you don't get as much protection
-) The bar sheers off the chasis and causes the impact to happen too soon resulting in the airbag going off late and hitting you after you've already hit the steering wheel etc
the company were quite open about the fact they could build you somthing BUT no guarantees in ADR compliance with airbag safety - these ones from brazil _could_ have the same issue. If you don't have an airbag model then as long as there are no sharp edges etc, does not impead your vision, does not obscure the headlights/indicators and the bar is not designed to suck a pedestrian underneath then you have almost free reign.
if you have airbags then you need to weigh up the risk vs benefit.
in saying all this simply running tyres 15mm+ larger in diameter is illeagal in QLD and voids your insurance due to decreased braking efficiency/modifications etc but everyone does it.
If we do a group buy or fabrication on those brazil bars I'd be keen to buy a snorkel from them as well - i'm also trying to get work for my company in Brazil so I can accidentlaly sneak some units back in our P&L containers :)
-------
Go 5-6mm ally instead of 3mm - you want somthing that won't cave in when you hit things, my 1.4mm steel plate frequently inverts around the steering rack.
good luck! - and post some pics!!
Syndicate
After seeing this picture id
After seeing this picture id like to change my design to be something like this. IF i can! It looks as though it will be a little harder to make with the curves in it. The grills we have here in Australia are different too, so there will be a flat section on top where this one just buts upto the grill, But that will just give me aerial and light mounting space :) oh and a spot to mount a rack for my hang glider!!
I was considering having a removable tow bar style front mount for the winch, so I could take it off when not using it as well as stick it on the back IF i ever needed to. but a few people have tried talking me out of that option. what your opinion on that?
Yippy i-O
31s 245/75/16 BFGs(33s next) 5" lift Coilovers with 290mm stroke. - 5.29 diffs with Kaiser Lockers.