G'day from Australia (QLD)
Hello All,
Just purchased my first Pajero (or mitsubushi for that matter).
I think I got a great deal. 2001 iO with 155,000k's on the clock. In pretty good nick! Automatic unfortunately, but other than that, she seems great.
I'm just wondering if there is any write ups on this site as to installing a new head unit, as I would like to replace the stock unit.
Cheers,
Martin
Gday fellas! (and/or
Gday fellas! (and/or ladies)
There's nothing wrong with the auto transmission as far as I know, I'd only prefer manual cos I like driving manual!
I haven't actually got my car yet, it's at the dealers. It needs a new windscreen for roadworthy so the dealer is getting that done. Can't effen wait to pick it up!
Sorry mate, I would only swap if you were willing to put the manual transmission in for me etc :p I am only a YouTube/forum "mechanic", haven't done anything too hard when fixing my own cars.
But thanks for the welcome everybody! I have downloaded the manual (320mb one?) so I'll have a peruse over that when I get the time. I think that manual nerds a manual on how to read it haha, it's pretty full on.
Location
Gday fellas! (and/or ladies)
There's nothing wrong with the auto transmission as far as I know, I'd only prefer manual cos I like driving manual!
There's nothing wrong with the auto transmission as far as I know, I'd only prefer manual cos I like driving manual!
I haven't actually got my car yet, it's at the dealers. It needs a new windscreen for roadworthy so the dealer is getting that done. Can't effen wait to pick it up!
Sorry mate, I would only swap if you were willing to put the manual transmission in for me etc :p I am only a YouTube/forum "mechanic", haven't done anything too hard when fixing my own cars.
But thanks for the welcome everybody! I have downloaded the manual (320mb one?) so I'll have a peruse over that when I get the time. I think that manual nerds a manual on how to read it haha, it's pretty full on.
Where abouts do u live?
May be very interested in doing that
My dad's a mechanic so.. Tools are available
Sorry
Where abouts do u live?
May be very interested in doing that
My dad's a mechanic so.. Tools are available
I'm sorry to have gotten your hopes up amigo, but I was only joking. Maybe get back to me in a year when I've done a good amount of driving and we'll see about the swap.
FYI I'm in Ipswich mate.
auto
+1 on the auto off road have taken it bush, beach and everywhere in between since 130,000km (now 250,000km) and no dramas. The lower low range mod conversion helped engine braking but other than that no problems with the auto and a 2.0L, maybe a little sluggish at times.
thx
Thanks everybody!
Picked up the car last night, drove around 50km from Brisbane to Ipswich, everything went swimmingly!
Drove very nicely. Very happy with the car so far. I'm shopping around for some new tyres and wheels tho, I think it definitely needs some new rubber! The current rims and tyres look horrible haha.
some stupid questions
I've got some questions I am hoping you fine knowledgable folk might know:
1. How in the heck do I tell if I have the 1.8L or 2.0L version of my iO?? I can't find anything anywhere, on the rego papers, in the manual.
2. Is there any easy way to check if the timing belt has been replaced? My car has done 155,000km, the log book had stopped being completed at like 80,000. I can't see any service stickers around anywhere.
3. Head unit install: Do I need any kind of wiring lume? The stock head unit/radio is in the vehicle, I am replacing it with a JVC unit I have just purchased, and replacing the front door speakers with some Pioneer 5 inch speakers.
I'll probably have some more questions later on. Thanks everyone.
Cheers!
Martin
No such thing
Mate the only stupid questions are the ones unasked!
1 - Under the bonnet there will be a placard that details the VIN and other details? Should be on the firewall near power steering and brake booster. On that plate it will say 4G94 (2.0L) or 4G93 (1.8L) I hope this helps
2 - I believe you will only be able to inspect the timingbelt byremoving the cover at the front of the engine, however due to the age and km's it may be best to have a look see by a proper mechanic
3 - You can look up the wiring diagrams in the manual and solder yourself connections from the new JVC head unit to Mitisbushi OR as an easier alternative go to Repco/Autobarn/Supercheap and get 1 x Mitsibushi adapter and 1 x JVC adapter (like $20-30 for both) and it will be a plug and play operation. Also the front door speakers are a weird size from reading other posts on here, somewhere between 6 1/4 inch and 6.5 inch depending on how they mount fit. yet to take the front apart myself
Good luck! Glad to hear you like your IO, I am from North Brisbane here, Keith on this forum is near Ipswich around you also. Let us know if you want to go out 4x4 sometime!
timing belt
If you have NO service hystory since 80000kms, chances are that the timing belt have not been done. I would put a new full kit as an insurance, (and a full service, all oil and filter replaced) even if you inspect it, it can look fine but you won't find anyone to give you a 100% warranty that it has been replaced and that it will last till 200000kms....because you cannot tell at 100% if it is fine. If the belt is showing wear (it shouldn't) then it is way overdue.
My bet you have a 4G93 with a 1.8 litre...still a very good engine.
Happy io
Thanks guys
Mate the only stupid questions are the ones unasked!
1 - Under the bonnet there will be a placard that details the VIN and other details? Should be on the firewall near power steering and brake booster. On that plate it will say 4G94 (2.0L) or 4G93 (1.8L) I hope this helps
2 - I believe you will only be able to inspect the timingbelt byremoving the cover at the front of the engine, however due to the age and km's it may be best to have a look see by a proper mechanic
3 - You can look up the wiring diagrams in the manual and solder yourself connections from the new JVC head unit to Mitisbushi OR as an easier alternative go to Repco/Autobarn/Supercheap and get 1 x Mitsibushi adapter and 1 x JVC adapter (like $20-30 for both) and it will be a plug and play operation. Also the front door speakers are a weird size from reading other posts on here, somewhere between 6 1/4 inch and 6.5 inch depending on how they mount fit. yet to take the front apart myself
Good luck! Glad to hear you like your IO, I am from North Brisbane here, Keith on this forum is near Ipswich around you also. Let us know if you want to go out 4x4 sometime!
Thanks for all that Simmo!
1. I've got the 4G93, so it's a 1.8L. I thought it was but I just wanted to make sure.
2. Good idea, I may just get it done by a mechanic. How much do you reckon for timing belt change? Should I take to Mitsibushi service centre or just a trusted mechanic?
3. Awesome, I think I'll go for the adapter method :D Can't be bothered with soldering and figuring out wires. I'm pretty versed in soldering, but some things just aren't worth it. Thanks for the heads up.
Yep for sure if you guys are ever out this way, we could have a cruise. Once I get everything all schmick I'd be keen as mustard, you guys could probably show me a thing or two about my car too!
If you have NO service hystory since 80000kms, chances are that the timing belt have not been done. I would put a new full kit as an insurance, (and a full service, all oil and filter replaced) even if you inspect it, it can look fine but you won't find anyone to give you a 100% warranty that it has been replaced and that it will last till 200000kms....because you cannot tell at 100% if it is fine. If the belt is showing wear (it shouldn't) then it is way overdue.
My bet you have a 4G93 with a 1.8 litre...still a very good engine.
Happy io
Thanks for that mate!
I have some oil (Nulon Hi-Tech Fast Flowing Synthetic Engine Oil, is this any good/okay?) and a new oil filter ready to go which I'll do myself this afternoon. I assume these can be done DIY, I've changed oil and filters myself for all of my cars. Any reason the iO may be different? I also want to do the A/T fluids as well, any suggestions for this?
Go to the resource section of the forum
and download the service manual.
As far as an oil & filter change goes, the iO is not significantly different from the average vehicle - I'd suggest either doing it on a hoist or with the vehicle on level ground with all four wheels down - don't try to use ramps - the drain plug is toward the front of the oil pan, so if it's nose up, dirty oil is trapped in the pan. Other than that it is straight forward - with the engine warm, remove the plug drain the oil, replace the plug, remove & replace the filter, add new oil.
AT fluid is slightly more challenging - because of how automatic transmissions work, you only get about 1/3 of the fluid out by draining the pan, so you have to use a specific procedure which is documented in the manual, and even with that procedure, you'll only get about 2/3 of the fluid, so you need to do a couple of changes over a short period of time (a week or two) to really get it all.
You probably also want to change out the fluids in the transfer case and the front & rear axles - straight forward drain & refill, but be aware the front axle has two sections, each with it's own drain & fill plugs - remove the fill plug before draining, this allows a faster drain, and also avoids a situation where you might drain an axle and then be unable to refill because of a stuck fill plug.
Front speakers are 6.5" circular, but the mount is a little unusual, so you'll need an adapter to mount most speakers - these should be available from most car audio retailers - ask for the adapter for a Mitsubishi Lancer.
Thanks for your detailed
Thanks for your detailed replies Fordem, it's apprecited!
You probably also want to change out the fluids in the transfer case and the front & rear axles - straight forward drain & refill, but be aware the front axle has two sections, each with it's own drain & fill plugs - remove the fill plug before draining, this allows a faster drain, and also avoids a situation where you might drain an axle and then be unable to refill because of a stuck fill plug.
Noted, thanks. Any suggestions for what what fluids to use?? I've never done transfer case and axles before :--) Having a look through the manual, I can't find where it recommends which fluids/grades to use.
Cheers,
Martin
oil
I just check on a manual (owner handbook) I have left
Transfer case 2.2 litre gear oil API classification GL-4 75W-90 or 75W-85W or 80W
Diff oil front (0.8 for auto and 1 lire for manual), free wheel (0.1 litre) rear 1.7 litre Hypoid gear oil API classification GL-5 or higher, above 10 degree SAE 90, below 10 degree SAE 80W
Auto gear box 7.2 litre, power steering 0.9 litre both take ATF dexron II
Happy io
It might be an idea to revisit the manual...
The oil specs are listed at the beginning of each section (ATF for 1.8 NA GDI, AW-ATF for 1.8 GDI turbo) for auto box. If i remember correctly for the transfer you need 75w90 gl-5 oil, and for axles 80w90 gl-5 oil.
Be very careful with that term ATF - to some it means Automatic Transmission Fluid, but it is also a specific type of fluid, and it is not the correct fluid for the AisinWarner AW4 used in these vehicles - READ the labels - you can find AW ATF (Aisin Warner Automatic Transmission Fluid), and you can also find ATF +4, ATF HP, Type F ATF, etc..
For an automatic the manual specifies Mitsubishi Diaqueen or Dexron II or equivalent - Dexron II is pretty much impossible to find, Dexron III is commonly available in many brands as Dex/Merc. The current spec Dexron is Dex VI, and some folks will tell you it's backward compatible, for me Dex III is available and closer in spec to the Dex II so that is what I use.
For the transfer case a GL4 oil is specified, if you're going to use a GL5, make sure it is a "yellow metal friendly" GL5 as there as brass synchromesh rings in it - the difference between a GL4 & a GL5 is the amount of EP (extreme pressure) additives, sulphur is, or used to be, a very common EP additive and it destroys the softer brass & bronze alloys. GL4 oils canbe hard to find, GL5s which are safe for use with brass & bronze are available.
In my mind the difference between a 75w90 and an 80w90 is insignificant - it might matter to someone living in a temperate climate, but where I am, the temperature never gets below 70*F, so it's non-critical.
sorry for incorrect info.
The oil specs are listed at the beginning of each section (ATF for 1.8 NA GDI, AW-ATF for 1.8 GDI turbo) for auto box. If i remember correctly for the transfer you need 75w90 gl-5 oil, and for axles 80w90 gl-5 oil.
Be very careful with that term ATF - to some it means Automatic Transmission Fluid, but it is also a specific type of fluid, and it is not the correct fluid for the AisinWarner AW4 used in these vehicles - READ the labels - you can find AW ATF (Aisin Warner Automatic Transmission Fluid), and you can also find ATF +4, ATF HP, Type F ATF, etc..
For an automatic the manual specifies Mitsubishi Diaqueen or Dexron II or equivalent - Dexron II is pretty much impossible to find, Dexron III is commonly available in many brands as Dex/Merc. The current spec Dexron is Dex VI, and some folks will tell you it's backward compatible, for me Dex III is available and closer in spec to the Dex II so that is what I use.
For the transfer case a GL4 oil is specified, if you're going to use a GL5, make sure it is a "yellow metal friendly" GL5 as there as brass synchromesh rings in it - the difference between a GL4 & a GL5 is the amount of EP (extreme pressure) additives, sulphur is, or used to be, a very common EP additive and it destroys the softer brass & bronze alloys. GL4 oils canbe hard to find, GL5s which are safe for use with brass & bronze are available.
In my mind the difference between a 75w90 and an 80w90 is insignificant - it might matter to someone living in a temperate climate, but where I am, the temperature never gets below 70*F, so it's non-critical.
My bad, here is the correct info:
Auto Box (V4AW4 is for 1.8 and 2.0 and v4AW5 is for the 1.8 GDI Turbo):
Front Axle:
Rear Axle:
Manual Transmission
I remember the GL4 "Problem" because i finally used a sinthetic oil GL4/GL5 (Motul) in transmision and transfer. Was impossible to find a GL4 whith the specified viscosity.
timing belt and oil
Hi,
Welcome to io and QLD!
Timing belt is easy to inspect - the front plastic timing cover is in two parts and the top half is an easy remove with a 10mm spanner.
- unplug the coil harness connector on the rocker cover then remove the 10mm bolts holding the black cover in place. will lift off.
- belt should snow no cracks on the smooth side and there should be no ribbing where the teeth have indented through to the smooth side - scrathces and polishing is fine.
- there should be no lateral cracking between the teeth - the grain will be on the 45 so expect some coarseness on the teeth.
- re: oil:
. i would recomend a 75-90 good HP gear oil for the transfer and front freewheel. same oil for both. Nulon is good
i would recomend a good 85-95 HP oil for the differentials front and rear - I run 85-140 in the rear because I thrash it. Penrite or Nulon
definitly change the front freewheel hub oil - only 750mls or so, but it has a profound effect on activiating 4wd.
have a look at the pics of the belt here: http://pajerio.com/forum/diy-timing-belt-4g94
Cheers
Thank you everybody for your
Thank you everybody for your awesome replies! This is such a fantastic little forum.
Re: Claude I've got both the original manual and the downloaded manual :) I was more asking for advice on which brand oil to use! I bought Nulon (fully synthetic) cos it was on special, I'll happily replace it with another brand if advisable.
Re: bob Thanks for the welcome and thanks for the timing belt info! I'll check it out. I'm thinking I might get a qualified person to do the timing belt, I did have a quick read over that thread about DIY, I've never done a timing belt so I feel it's a bit out of my skill level. Although, do you know the exact kit number that I could check prices on, for my 4g93??
Edit: I found this DAYCO kit, is it the best?? It's $240 at the moment which seems pretty good. There are cheaper (around the $150 mark) kits available too, I assume I should stay away from those.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141762069375?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Re: Hadz Yep, thanks for those references bud! Also just a general question, is my car the GDI version?? I don't see anything jumping out in the original manual mentioning it.
what method to follow for ATF
AT fluid is slightly more challenging - because of how automatic transmissions work, you only get about 1/3 of the fluid out by draining the pan, so you have to use a specific procedure which is documented in the manual, and even with that procedure, you'll only get about 2/3 of the fluid, so you need to do a couple of changes over a short period of time (a week or two) to really get it all.
Hey Fordem (or anyone else who may know), should I follow what it says in the service manual about removing the hose into the radiator?
As following the manual it states I'll discharge around 6L in total, I'm just wondering if I'm looking at the wrong bit hah.
(pic attached)
Cheers,
Martin
Normally I'd say follow the manual...
But - I've never seen the manual you seem to be looking at, and the diagrams don't look like the vehicle I have.
Having said that the steps are similar, so if your manual matches your car, then by all means follow it, or try to - what I observed when doing mine was that in step #2 the fluid stopped flowing just before the one minute mark, and no fluid drained in step #3 - possibly because it had all been pumped out before - in step #5, I had removed less than 6 litres, so I refilled with pretty much the same amount that had been removed, stopping and checking the level with the dipstick so as to not overfill.
I repeated step #2 once because that's what my manual said (it did not require me to discharge at least 8 litres as yours does) and refilled to the correct level and everything seems to work just fine.
Auto Fluid Change
When I did mine I removed the bottom radiator hose that runs auto fluid through the radiator and had to drain, screenshots below of the manual I used:
I found in this forum to follow this:
If you haven't already downloaded the manual, now would be a good time to do so - I believe the auto transmission is section 23 - it outlines a procedure to drain & flush the transmission that uses the transmission oil pump - essentially it goes like this...
1. Disconnect the transmission cooler line and direct it into a bucket
2. Start & idle the engine for one minute or until fluid stops flowing (which ever happens first)
3. Then remove the transmission drain plug & drain whatever fluid remains
4. Refill the transmission (wheres refill point?), and then repeat the start & idle for one minute
5. Reconnect the cooler line and refill the transmission again
This procedure gets out most of the fluid in the transmission, including the fluid in the torque converter - all that's left is what is trapped in the valve body, and the only way to get that out is a complete tear down.
flick us an email and I can send you the PDF I have that made me learn about the auto in mine - will try to attach below also
/sites/default/files/u746/auto%20service.pdf
You have the MPI
I'm 100% sure you have the MPI versión, gdi badges are present in the car body, dashboard (green light) and in the motor cover.
I know this is a little off-topic, but someone has a maintenance schedule for the iO? I only have the autodata one, but that feels like a generic one.
This is what I have
I have the service manual, is that what you'd like? There's like 60 pages
Front diff + fly wheel
just a note, the fill plug on the front diff freewheel was hard to get too with the way the auto box sits in the frame and I remember have to jack it up a little bit to get tools into to crack open the fill plug (or drain plug I forget which) - Wasn't a hard job, just a jack and a piece of wood I think I used, enough to clear another ~1inch of room for stumpy hands and tools!
Looks like I definitely need
Thanks for all the advice on which oils to use guys!
It looks like I definitely need to do the timing belt.
I ordered a DAYCO Timing belt kit with water pump (KTBA133P), can anyone confirm this is definitely the correct kit? :--) I've attached photos of the old belt and the new belt.
I am thinking of doing it myself, it could be very fun learning about timing belts etc. I will follow the instructional thread posted by Bob.
A DIY is available
Hi, in the forum is available a DIY topic .
I'm interested in doing the timing belt in my two iO's but someone mentioned something about a special tool is required if the car sports an auto box, but in the workshop manual doesn't appears nothing about that special tool.
MD990767
Loosening the crankshaft pulley nut can be a challenge if the vehicle has an automatic transmission - with a manual you just put it in gear and set the handbrake to prevent the crankshaft from rotating, but with an automatic, this is not an option - the manual shows MD990767 being used for this purpose - if you have access to a small enough impact wrench that is another option, and so is a chain style vice grip, but if this last method is used I suggest you use a section of serpentine belt to prevent damage to the crankshaft pulley.
methods
Loosening the crankshaft pulley nut can be a challenge if the vehicle has an automatic transmission - with a manual you just put it in gear and set the handbrake to prevent the crankshaft from rotating, but with an automatic, this is not an option - the manual shows MD990767 being used for this purpose - if you have access to a small enough impact wrench that is another option, and so is a chain style vice grip, but if this last method is used I suggest you use a section of serpentine belt to prevent damage to the crankshaft pulley.
Thanks for info fordem, unfortunately I can't source a MD990767 anywhere in Aus!
Is Bob's method alright with an automatic? (quoted below)
I braced a breaker bar off the front chassis and poped the starter motor, tiny little pip on the starter motor and a crack on the crank nut - success! engine moved about 120deg so gently rotated forwards gently to re-align marks. eased crank pully off by "walking it" between my hand and a crow bar braced off oilfilter housing.
If not, I may just have to bite the bullet and pay my local mechanic to do this 
.
the starter motor method works for any engine if gearbox in Neutral
just be careful to disconnect coil leads as you don't want the engine to start or do more than just "tap" the starter motor to turn the motor less than one revolution
Thanks Bob, I have decided to get my local mechanics to do it for me at this stage :)
Hello $330 thats cheap to change the belt :)
Who are you using. I mean what garage?
Autocare in Ipswich. I am supplying the timing belt kit etc tho.
Hello all,Supercheap is
Hello all,
Supercheap is having a sale on penrite oils so I thought I'd grab them. Just checking I've got the right ones selected?
Please refer to pics below :)
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Penrite-Pro-Gear-Oil-75W-85-2-5...
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Penrite-Gear-Oil-80W-90-2-5-Lit...
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Penrite-Automatic-Transmission-...
Thanks for everyone's
Thanks for everyone's replies!
The manual I was referring to was simply the "pajero" manual that's from this website.
Also, I have a question. Is my car meant to be in front wheel drive? The super select thingy, the front wheels are illuminated (solid, not blinking). Is this normal??
Depends on the vehicle and what you select.
First - some iOs are AWD (all wheel drive) with no option to select anything else - I don't know how the display on these vehicles works, or even if there is a display.
Moving on - assuming that your vehicle has a transfer case shift lever - the lever will have four positions - 2H, 4H, 4HLc & 4LLc - the front wheels lights should be on, solid not flashing, for all except the 2H position.
When 2H is selected, the vehicle is rear wheel drive only, 4H is all wheel drive, 4HLc is the same as 4H, but with the center coupling locked so this mode should not be used on a hard dry surface - this can be considered as 4WD, and 4LLc is low range 4WD, again, the center coupling is locked and this mode should ne be used on hard dry surfaces.
You can drive in 4H all day long
if you so choose, it's quite useful on slippery surfaces - for example, wet or otherwise slick asphalt - amongst other things it reduces the tendency of the vehicle to lift and spin the inside rear tire if you accelerate a little too hard through a turn on a wet road - in theory, you might see slightly increased fuel consumption, but in my experience, it's not significant.
Having said that, when you shift to 2H, the two "front wheel lights" should go out, and the lever should stay in the 2H position until 4H is selected.
Question - how much "side play" do you have in the transfer case shifter? If it's more than a few mm side~side, you may have a "rotted" bush in there preventing the lever from moving fully between positions - the shift lever pivots on a spherical bushing made of some sort of elastomeric material that rots and crumbles - I can't provide a more precise description because I've never seen the original bushing - when I got my car, the bash had already disentegrated and I made a new one from a polyurethane shock bush.
the front 4wd actuator on the
the front 4wd actuator on the front axle defaults to 4wd mode with a spring and is pulled off to 2wd with vacuum. if your lines are broken or the shaft is sticky it will not move out of 4wd.
however given your lights are not flashing in 2wd mode i'd say your lever is cactus
Syndicate
welcome
Welcome to the forum Martin, have a read here....http://pajerio.com/forum/manual-auto-conversion#comment-21453
You are meant to meet :)....and swap gear box :)
Happy io
My io is now SOLD Thankshttp://pajerio.com/forum/claudes-io-2002-zr-built-thread-onlyhappy-io