knocking sound that some of us seem to have
So i finally decided to look for this knocking sound. Checked all rubber mounts I could find and it all looked good. Have someone lay under the car as i bounced each side up and down. Looks like we found it. Left hand side sway bar link. Looks like one of the bushes must be warm as there is a fair bit of movement creating quite a noise. Whiteline sells the links and pushes for 90 bucks a pair. So will get them and see how I go.
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Here is the culprit. Its definitely moving around and making a clunk when we tested it out. Hopefully this is my issue and not just another one.
And this will be the replacement.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W23185
I am away for work all for the next 8 days so I wont have an update for a bit.
Good news though, my engine mounts and the rest of them seem to be in amazing condition.
Are you RHD or LHD?
It's fairly common for passenger side suspension components to fail first - pot holes, etc., tend to form more on the edges of the road surface than toward the center, so the passenger side components work harder.
My iO has what I describe as a "chuckle" on the left front - it does sound a lot like a worn sway bar mount (the D shaped rubber mount that clamps the sway bar to the frame) - but I have all new mounts and end links so I know it's not those. The control arm bush is a couple of months old, the ball joint was in good shape when I replace the bush, inner & outer tie-rods are also in good shape - that kind of leaves the strut itself - which I hope to get sorted out at the end of the month (gotta wait for pay day).
You also won't see the problem by looking at the part.
This picture was taken from RockAuto's website and is what a new sway bar end link will look like - a worn one will look pretty much the same - except that the rubber boots may be cracked and/or torn - the big difference between a good end link and a worn end link is the peice that looks like a threaded stud will be loose enough to move with your fingers.
These are really two miniature ball joints with the threaded stud being attached to a ball in a socket, and the two sockets linked by a rod - if you attempt to move the studs on a new end link you will find them to be very stiff, worn end links will move much easier, and by the time you can hear them knocking, they will be loose enough to flop around.
Whilst I'm about it - here's another rubber bush that can also allow the sway bar to knock.
This second picture is a generic image I found on the internet - the sway bar is clamped to the frame using two bushes like these - if you can see any clearance at all between the bar and the center hole, they are worn. Worn bushes allow the bar to move and make a soft knocking noise underneath your feet, typically heard at low speed especially if one wheel is moving up/down when the other is not - for example over a speed bump.
Generic replacements can be used as long as the dimensions (both internal & external) are similar - the center hole IS critical - measure the swaybar with a caliper, it will be 21, 22 or 23 mm in diameter, get a bush with a hole to match. The OEM bushes use a locating "pip" at the top of the curved part - this is not necessary and bushes without the pip will also work. - bushes with a slit to allow you to slip them over the sway bar are preferable.
Incidentally - I replaced these parts on my iO back in May, I do have the old ones that I could photograph - I'm just too lazy.
link "ball" check
Hi Fielies,
you can check them by "feel" too, get someone to bounce the car , hold the link "ball" in your hand. if they are worn you will feel a knocking in the ball. For a visual check, while bouncing the car, you will see the nut side and the "ball" side not moving in "harmonies" ( one will move, then 1 or several mm after, the other).
That "feel" system can be used for other parts like the tie rod end, free play in some steering rack....
Happy io
Stabiliser bar bushes
Whilst I'm about it - here's another rubber bush that can also allow the sway bar to knock.
This second picture is a generic image I found on the internet - the sway bar is clamped to the frame using two bushes like these - if you can see any clearance at all between the bar and the center hole, they are worn. Worn bushes allow the bar to move and make a soft knocking noise underneath your feet, typically heard at low speed especially if one wheel is moving up/down when the other is not - for example over a speed bump.
Generic replacements can be used as long as the dimensions (both internal & external) are similar - the center hole IS critical - measure the swaybar with a caliper, it will be 21, 22 or 23 mm in diameter, get a bush with a hole to match. The OEM bushes use a locating "pip" at the top of the curved part - this is not necessary and bushes without the pip will also work. - bushes with a slit to allow you to slip them over the sway bar are preferable.
Incidentally - I replaced these parts on my iO back in May, I do have the old ones that I could photograph - I'm just too lazy.
Has anyone got the actual measurements of these bushes? I had another look today and I think this may be my problem. I had been getting the knocking mostly from the driver's side, contrary to the trend, however I think the knocking really started after being winched out of a creek which might have caused something out of the ordinary.
I purchased some Nolathane stabiliser links from repco today, part # 42704. They were in stock and cost me $62. At first the girl said she'd have to order it in cos she looked it up as a single (part # 42704S) and that was going to be $50 alone, so I was pretty happy when I asked for the pair and they had them in stock.
I'm going to get under the car and measure up the bushes next - (OEM part # MR455699 I think). I'll try to get a pair of them so that I can replace it all at the same time. Hopefully then the noise will have gone and I won't feel so bad every time I drive my car and think its falling apart when I hear the clunk!
If the car is on level ground, can the stabiliser bar be removed without jacking the car up?
I can give you the external dimensions ...
Whilst I'm about it - here's another rubber bush that can also allow the sway bar to knock.
This second picture is a generic image I found on the internet - the sway bar is clamped to the frame using two bushes like these - if you can see any clearance at all between the bar and the center hole, they are worn. Worn bushes allow the bar to move and make a soft knocking noise underneath your feet, typically heard at low speed especially if one wheel is moving up/down when the other is not - for example over a speed bump.
Generic replacements can be used as long as the dimensions (both internal & external) are similar - the center hole IS critical - measure the swaybar with a caliper, it will be 21, 22 or 23 mm in diameter, get a bush with a hole to match. The OEM bushes use a locating "pip" at the top of the curved part - this is not necessary and bushes without the pip will also work. - bushes with a slit to allow you to slip them over the sway bar are preferable.
Incidentally - I replaced these parts on my iO back in May, I do have the old ones that I could photograph - I'm just too lazy.
Has anyone got the actual measurements of these bushes? I had another look today and I think this may be my problem. I had been getting the knocking mostly from the driver's side, contrary to the trend, however I think the knocking really started after being winched out of a creek which might have caused something out of the ordinary.
I purchased some Nolathane stabiliser links from repco today, part # 42704. They were in stock and cost me $62. At first the girl said she'd have to order it in cos she looked it up as a single (part # 42704S) and that was going to be $50 alone, so I was pretty happy when I asked for the pair and they had them in stock.
I'm going to get under the car and measure up the bushes next - (OEM part # MR455699 I think). I'll try to get a pair of them so that I can replace it all at the same time. Hopefully then the noise will have gone and I won't feel so bad every time I drive my car and think its falling apart when I hear the clunk!
If the car is on level ground, can the stabiliser bar be removed without jacking the car up?
I have the bushes that I took off of my car downstairs and can measure them, but I would strongly suggest you measure the diameter of the bar on your car - as I mentioned earlier it can be one of three sizes 21, 22 or 23 mm. Better yet - if you have another vehicle to use (or can borrow one for an hour or so) remove the bush from your car and take it with you so you can match the size - you still need to measure the sway bar because the hole on yours will be worn.
With regard removing the stabilizer bar without jacking the car up - it may be possible - depending on how big you are - and how much of a lift you have. With no lift I can just about slide under there (from the sides) and unbolt the clamps that hold it - I have done it with the car on ramps. Incidentally, you can also remove the bar and drive the vehicle without it (this is frequently done on Suzukis as the bar, by design, limits flex or articulation), however, I personally do not recommend this on any vehicle that is a daily driver as there is a potential loss of stability in certain onroad situations. If you're driving without it for short distances (to go purchase parts) and at limited speeds, you can get away with it.
Swaybar end links are not super critical
I looked up the 2001 Corolla on the US Autozone site and it shows SL243 as the sway bar repair kit - the picture looks about right, and the end link is not a super critical part - it'll usually work if it's a litle longer or shorter - BUT - in "seat of the pants" testing with a sport hatch, we did find that whilst a slightly longer or shorter end-link does work and is better than a worn end-link, using the correct length end-link DOES make a difference
If you do have an Autozone handy ask them for 18168, that is a direct replacement for the OEM Mitsubishi part.for the Pajero iO
What I did is look the OEM part number for the iO end links and then cross reference that to see what other Mitsubishis it was used on (Diamante) and then ask AutoZone for the Diamante end links - which as I mentioned are the 18168 - I have also sourced several other items from AutoZone using this method, so if there's a part you need let me know and I'll see what I can come up with.
REPCO to the rescue.
i called repco today as i saw that they were a dealer of the whitline sway bar links.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W23185
and they came back to me and said they can order some in for me from nolathane.
http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=42704
$50 for the pair. freaking sweeeeeeeeeet!!!
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i called repco today as i saw that they were a dealer of the whitline sway bar links.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W23185
and they came back to me and said they can order some in for me from nolathane.
http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=42704
$50 for the pair. freaking sweeeeeeeeeet!!!
Nice, I am finally back in town so Ill be giving repco a visit tomorrow.
Some dodgy measurements
Here are some dodgy measurements taken of the stabiliser bar bush:
Around 44mm wide
23mm Tube
This was a bit of a dud measurement, but I'd say aroun 58mm across the flat part.
Here is some info from the Nolathane website:
From this, my first guess would be that it is a #42072, which is listed as a mazda RX7 bush which looks like this:
Not sure about the raised round part, or whether it could be cut off or compressed?
So then there is the #42216, which is for a Mitsu Triton:
This one looks more like it, but the part # didn't exist at repco!
They couldn't get onto Nolathane this afternoon as it was after 5pm, so I'll go back in there a little earlier tomorrow and hopefully they can call them up and see if I can get both and compare them before I buy...
As against changing what?
Typically the bushes are all the only thing that is changed although you can in some cases buy the U shaped clamps with the bushes - which might not be a bad idea with the iO - I have just noticed that the OEM bushes have a "taper" - the bottom is wider than the top - which is not common on the aftermarket or generic bush.
A word of caution ...
For those of you considering Nolothane or any other brand of polyurethane bushings - please be aware that they squeak unless frequently lubricated. Depending on which manufacturer makes the poly bush you will find that they either recommend their own brand of silicone grease (usually very sticky white grease) or a molybedenum based grease (similar to what is used on CV joints)
Polyurethane, by design, is firmer than rubber and an ideal modification for street performance improvements, however the increased firmness is not always an advantage on an off road vehicle as it limits articulation.
OEM replacement
I went to pedders this morning and they didn't have any bushes which would fit, but suggested replacing the bracket and the bush to get a proper fit with one of their generic kits. This was going to be around $40 + $44 for them to replace the bushes (they would have to remove the existing to find the right bracket and bush anyway).
I called mitsubishi and their bushes are $11 each, part #MR455699, and they have them in stock at the warehouse for next day delivery to the dealer.
Looks like that is the best way to go, especially considering what Fordem said about the PU ones.
This is not a one part fits all ...
I called mitsubishi and their bushes are $11 each, part #MR455699, and they have them in stock at the warehouse for next day delivery to the dealer.
Again - there are three (3) different sized stabilizer bars, so there are three (3) different bushes to match - this is not a one part number fits all, so make sure you get the correct ones for your car.
That's normal for a Mitsubishi dealership
It's actually a function of how the spare parts catalogue software works - it must have a chassis number to start with - and even more annoying, the application is "market specific" so if, just for example, you gave a dealer in Australia a chassis number for a vehicle built for the Caribbean, the Australian dealer app will reject the chassis number as invalid.
A good "parts person" will know how to work around the issue, but there is a risk of the wrong part number coming back.
VIN
Yeah they asked me for the VIN which I didn't have on me at the time, but he said that all of the variants he looked up had the same part #, which matched the one from the online catalogue which we have used on here.
Hopefully by this afternoon I'll know for sure!
VIN & Parts
The system here lets dealers or anyone else look up your VIN from the license plate number. Here's my listing on one of the free lookup sites - note the photo they have for it isn't correct (they crawl for sale ads for pics and reg numbers so sometimes it shows the actual car but often not) but the other details are accurate:
http://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=btm887
I think it is fixed!
I finally got around to replacing the sway bar bushes and linkages this morning.
Went for a quick drive, and the steering seems more precise and I didn't hear the clunking noise at all.
Happy days. Thanks to everyone who contributed here - I would still be wondering about it otherwise :)
The old linkage - I couldn't get the new ones to move at all by hand. These ones were very sloppy.
Both sides done in under an hour :)
sway bar links
The old linkage - I couldn't get the new ones to move at all by hand. These ones were very sloppy.
Both sides done in under an hour :)
god job man. i fixed my knocking too. i havent looked at replacing the bushes yet. thats probably next.
my old links were exactly like yours too, very badly worn. did you end up getting your new pair from repco? i got the same ones @ $49 a pair
worked a treat. like you, i have also noticed a bit better handling and steering response. pretty good bang for buck if you ask me.
to anyone that hasnt replaced or needs to replace their worn sway bar links, at this moment i would highly recommend replacing your old ones with the nolathane sway bar links if you havent already done so....
I am new to forum website.
I am new to forum website. Have had Pinin for a year and has developed a knocking from left wheel/suspension when turning left, i.e. whe the weight is taken off the left wheel, sounds similar to your issue here some years ago... did your develop when only turning left?
These front swat bar links-
These front swat bar links- can someone give me the OEM size/length of these please?
Im trying to track down the reason I've had to replace bushings in front 3 times in 10 months (besides the rough roads) the font suspension feels way too tight/rigid.
The current pair were put in just before i bought the truck and they seem short compared to what's in these pictures (obviously hard to tell in a picture but the ones on this post here look like about 12+cm)
Thanks!!
Thanks, ok that's pretty much
Thanks, ok that's pretty much same size I have already...
The sway bar bushings themselves are usually half destroyed...that's the most notable ones.
To me the front feels way tighter than it should.
The whole thing could be because it is a lighter duty vehicle and the roads are not kind in Nicaragua, but since the io excels at beach trips and back roads I don't want to trade it for a Land Cruiser a lot have here, I like the io.
Btw your modifying a polyurethane bushing idea for the 4x4 shift stick is holding up great I switch back and forth avg 4 times a day
Glad I could be of assistance.
The roads may be a contributing factor to the bush failure, but I suspect quality of the replacement parts may be the actual issue.
On my other 4WD (a Suzuki Grand Vitara) I've replaced the sway bar bushes several times within the past few years - always using "third party" replacements - on the last occasion I swung by the local Suzuki dealer and picked up OEM replacements - they cost about 50% more than the generic parts, but they are not that expensive, and I'm betting they will last longer.
CTR stabilizer links
I want to inform that the CTR brand is the OEM equivalent for the stabilizer link, buyed the CTR-CLKH-6 and replaced today, it looks exactly the same as the removed part.
Plus the price of CTR parts are dirt cheap and listed as elantra part (hyundai is pretty popular here)
Syndicate
sounds good
sounds promising. i havent investigated mine yet but when i first noticed it, it did sound like it was coming from underneath me and to the left hand side...
hopefully all goes well for you and ill try to investigate...
post some pics when your done???
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