1.8 GDI Ticking engine Sound(hydraulic tappets)
Hello , my name is Luis I from Spain and I have Mitsubishi Montero IO 1.8 GDI ( Montero is the name of this car here).
Please watch this video an continue reading this post:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1N7e8_9c5g
I have the same sound that IO engine video in the engine of my Mitsubishi Pajero Pinin 1.8 GDI 2000.
It has 220,000 km, I bought second-hand, the engine did not sound well, it sounded very smooth, but unknown to Give you mileage oil change, so I decided to change it.
So now I have this noise, use Castrol EDGE 5W30 now, when this noise began a few months ago decided to change the hydraulic tappets but the problem continued, the car has less than 300 km oils of the following densities:
1: Motul 10W40
2nd: Petronas 20W50
3rd: Castrol magnatec10w40
4th: Castrol magnatec10w40
5: Castrol Edge 5W30
All these changes made with the intention of cleaning the engine.
The noise just came down with the Castrol brand.
Summary: hydraulic tappets and engine cleanliness changed daily.
Do you have any idea?
I hope your help.
Best regards
ticking
sounds like lifters or tappet clearance.
I had this noise for a week on my MPI around 210,000kms - I ran an oil flush through the engine and then used penrite 10-40 full synthetic oil for the next few changes and this has kept the noise away.
the MPI tappets are self-adjusting so no service there - not sure if the GDI need a clearance set or not
The GDIs have self adjusting hydraulic lifters
At least mine does, and it's a good thing too, because on the GDI engine, the intake ports are near vertical. You have to remove the throttle body & intake before you can reach the cam covers, it took me several hours, and required getting underneath the vehicle to reach two bolts securing the intake to a brace on the side of the block.
There are oils formulated specifically for the GDI engines, Shell makes one and so does Total, if you can't find those consider a diesel engine oil - the reason I suggest this is the GDI combustion process is in many ways similar to that of a diesel engine - I've been using Vavoline "All Fleet" oil for a couple of years now, it is CF/SL rated, so it can be used in both diesel & gasolene engines - over time I have had the lifter rattle reduced considerably - right now it's mostly present only for the first few seconds after start up.
FORDEM I will try clean throttle body again
At least mine does, and it's a good thing too, because on the GDI engine, the intake ports are near vertical. You have to remove the throttle body & intake before you can reach the cam covers, it took me several hours, and required getting underneath the vehicle to reach two bolts securing the intake to a brace on the side of the block.
There are oils formulated specifically for the GDI engines, Shell makes one and so does Total, if you can't find those consider a diesel engine oil - the reason I suggest this is the GDI combustion process is in many ways similar to that of a diesel engine - I've been using Vavoline "All Fleet" oil for a couple of years now, it is CF/SL rated, so it can be used in both diesel & gasolene engines - over time I have had the lifter rattle reduced considerably - right now it's mostly present only for the first few seconds after start up.
FORDEM I will try clean throttle body again , its possible the mecanic didn`t clean good this, so When I have several hours , I will try this , and in the next oil change I going use Diesel oil .
Thanks for your answers! :D
as they say here
Happy IO.
The GDI engine is like said
The GDI engine is like said FORDEM, "use self adjusting hydraulic lifters with oil", I used engine flush in one oil change and I used 10 w 40 full synthetic oil and I had same results.
The throttle body was cleaned when they changed the hydraulic tappets, I think the problem is (from what I've read elsewhere) the problem is dirt on the EGR valve and the intake manifold that makes valves and hydraulic tappets are dirty, it's what I need to try and use in the next change 15W40 oil semi-synthetic that someone on this board seems that served.
Mainly I like to clean the hydraulic tappets but do not have money for a mechanic, so I wait for the change of timing belt to clean advantage that remove the belt.
If someone has another idea or the case has been grateful that would share with us
Best Regards
Hey guys, I have one
Hey guys,
I have one question
Now , I using Castrol EDGE 5w30 full synthetic oil, and I going to change this when my car have 225.000 km , I put it when I was 220.000 km.
My idea is change the oil and oil filter around 5000 km.
My question is:
What oil you recomend me?
10w40 synthetic?
15 w 40 semi-synthetic?
Best Regards
Happy IO
oil
Oil ain't oil !! but no matter what one think is good someone else will have another idea !! without starting a long discussion about it...
Please note that I have the MPI engine and my comment are based on that. If you spend good money on synthetic oil, 5000km might be over doing it, maybe 10000km or 7500km could be suitable.
What I found is that even if you buy one brand of 10w40 it still could be thicker or thinner than onother 10w40 this could be why you have a noisy engine.
I use Valvoline 10W40 synthetic, change every 10000kms and all seems good. In winter the engine is very quiet but I do have some lifter noise at start up (first 10 sec or so) in summer. Since you are in Spain, and the weather is getting hot, maybe you should try a 20w50 (please check your manual if it is suitable, again I do not have the GDI engine) or the 15w40.
I have try a few other oil, without giving any name but while some gave me similar result !, some gave me more noisy lifter at start up, some even double my oil consumption....
As for synthetic or semi synthetic, buy what you can afford....
Happy io
Like Claude says ...
Any discussion on oil is likely to have opposing views - personally, I don't like long oil change intervals, and for that reason I'm not willing to pay the premium for a full synthetic - I prefer to run an "all fleet" (diesel & gasolene) oil in my 1.8 GDI engined iO. I would also stay away from that 20w50.
agree about opinions
I agree with you Fordem on just about everything you said - especially about not using 20w50 as it will be far too heavy!
If it were my car and living in en las Canarias I would run a good quality 10w40 and change it once a year or every 7-8000 kms.
What bothers about 5w30?
@Luis: Is it something that bothers you at 5w30 oil or you just wanna try something more thicker? I've just changed my oil with petronas syntium 5w30 and after one week I don't see any changes apart from my peace of mind when I know the engine runs on clean oil 
Still looking for any differences
.
I run 10-40 or 5-40 here in australia as the 30 is too light for our temps.
Agree...at least someone mentioning temperature !!
Again, I am not sure about the GDI but I don't think that it is wrong in using 20W50 in hot weather on the MPI, as written in the manual as well. Being in Spain, I wouldn't be surprise if the weather reach close to the 30 degrees Celsius next month. And as I said, some oil have different quality and one 20w50 could be great and the other 20w50 not working so well.
Since his engine is noisy, and the temperature is probably in the mid 20 now and will raise soon, and following the manual for the GDI (that I do not have), I would consider trying the 20w50 (again ONLY if the GDI manual allow it)
Now I am in Canberra, the weather is now around -5 during the night, 15 during the day at best...yes the 20W50 might be too heavy here.....and yes maybe the 5w30 better suited....
This could be an ongoing thread :) but anyone changing his oil regularly is way in front all of the one that doesn't !!! even if it is not the best oil on the market......
Here is a pic of the manual with the oil that you can use for the MPI, you should try to find the one for the GDI.
Happy io
the only problem is the horrible ticking sound in my GDI engine
@Luis: Is it something that bothers you at 5w30 oil or you just wanna try something more thicker? I've just changed my oil with petronas syntium 5w30 and after one week I don't see any changes apart from my peace of mind when I know the engine runs on clean oil Still looking for any differences
I havent got any problems with this oil, the only problem is the horrible ticking sound in my GDI engine , I want stop this sound, I tried diferents densities of oil and I had same ticking sound results ....
I used this densities:
1º:10w 40
2º: 20w50 (this had more ticking sound).
3º5w30 ( the same sound with 10w40 but less than 20w50).
I hope try with 15 w 40.
I have the GDI manual is the same oil references than MPI manual.
Here in Fuerteventura summer temperatures are around 20 degrees minimum and maximum 37 degrees.
I used my car when we had heat wave and temperatures arrived around 44 degrees and I didn't see any change in the noise with oil 5 w 30 despite the hight temperatures.
Best regards
Happy IO
.
Any discussion on oil is likely to have opposing views - personally, I don't like long oil change intervals, and for that reason I'm not willing to pay the premium for a full synthetic - I prefer to run an "all fleet" (diesel & gasolene) oil in my 1.8 GDI engined iO. I would also stay away from that 20w50.
Good point about changing often with a cheaper oil....as you told us many time that the GDI tend to be a "dirty" engine....
Happy io
the GDI engine is dirty
Any discussion on oil is likely to have opposing views - personally, I don't like long oil change intervals, and for that reason I'm not willing to pay the premium for a full synthetic - I prefer to run an "all fleet" (diesel & gasolene) oil in my 1.8 GDI engined iO. I would also stay away from that 20w50.
Good point about changing often with a cheaper oil....as you told us many time that the GDI tend to be a "dirty" engine....
Happy io
Yes I agree with you Fordem, the GDI engine is dirty , when I changed oil for first time I saw the oil very dirty , afortunately now I can see the oil very clean, I think the last owner had no control correct oil changes and is the principal problem of my ticking sound.
I dont understand why my car have the ticking sound despite having changed the hydraulic tappets the olny theory is dirt in the circuit.
But I cleaned carter mouth and use engine cleaner with change oil.
best regards
Happy IO
Good point ...
When I joined this forum there was a discussion on the ticking and I saw the lifters being blamed for ticking "before the engine started" which of course is a ridiculous suggestion, since the lifters are sitting still at that point - lifter (or tappet) noise can generally be detected by the frequency - it'll be half the engine speed - of course, any noise from the valve train will also be "half engine speed".
What I've discovered with my GDI is that not all of that half engine speed noise is lifter noise - in fact the bulk of it may actually be the valves themselves.
On a couple of occasions I have used various fuel system cleaners, including Gumout & more recently, Seafoam, introduced into the intake via a vacuum line - the intent here is to try to get rid of some (as much as I can) of the carbon that builds up in the intake manifold (it gets in via the EGR (which has been blanked) & the PCV system), and on the back of the intake valves, and every time this is done, the valve train noise is significantly reduced (temporarily).
which product did you use to clean it? you put it with gasoline?
When I joined this forum there was a discussion on the ticking and I saw the lifters being blamed for ticking "before the engine started" which of course is a ridiculous suggestion, since the lifters are sitting still at that point - lifter (or tappet) noise can generally be detected by the frequency - it'll be half the engine speed - of course, any noise from the valve train will also be "half engine speed".
What I've discovered with my GDI is that not all of that half engine speed noise is lifter noise - in fact the bulk of it may actually be the valves themselves.
On a couple of occasions I have used various fuel system cleaners, including Gumout & more recently, Seafoam, introduced into the intake via a vacuum line - the intent here is to try to get rid of some (as much as I can) of the carbon that builds up in the intake manifold (it gets in via the EGR (which has been blanked) & the PCV system), and on the back of the intake valves, and every time this is done, the valve train noise is significantly reduced (temporarily).
I thought to clean the intake manifold and the EGR valve, but do not have time to get to it, I read in the forums that dir traps in places that produce sound valves and hydraulic tappets consequentlu sticking.
I thought my use clean fuel injectors, but I'm afraid to cause unstable idling problem, so I decided to use 98 octane gasoline free leed but I have the same results.
which product did you use to clean it? you put it with gasoline?
best regards
happy IO
en ingles por favor
I've actually removed the intake manifold (my car has the two piece cast aluminum intake), disassembled it and cleaned it with a degreaser & high pressure water - I also poured solvent down through the intake tracts and used a "bottle" brush to dislodge as much of the carbon as I could before swabbing it out with paper towels.
Other treatments were done, as I mentioned, with Seafoam & Gumout, introduced via a vacuum line and the PCV system - although both products can be added to the gas tank, that delivery method would not get it into the intake on a GDI engine, so it would not clean the area I wanted cleaned.
Sorry for writing in Spanish I had problem with my browser
I've actually removed the intake manifold (my car has the two piece cast aluminum intake), disassembled it and cleaned it with a degreaser & high pressure water - I also poured solvent down through the intake tracts and used a "bottle" brush to dislodge as much of the carbon as I could before swabbing it out with paper towels.
Other treatments were done, as I mentioned, with Seafoam & Gumout, introduced via a vacuum line and the PCV system - although both products can be added to the gas tank, that delivery method would not get it into the intake on a GDI engine, so it would not clean the area I wanted cleaned.
Sorry for writing in Spanish I had problem with my browser and traductor and the reply it was published in Spanish.
When I write here I help with google translater.
Best Regards
Happy IO
Dear frend, im not a engineer
Dear frend, im not a engineer so my words are from one old guy ( already 70y ) who's half life work for Mitsubishi .. he's ugly with communication ( as always when someone know real true ) . He told me about Oil should be for our's GDI engines 0w50 ( as on latest service brief's - who are distributed to every Mitsubishi service unoficjally - not available for normal users ) .. so .. i not use 0w50 oil cause of hes price but 5w50 .. reason ? carbon buildup on GDI engines is the famous story ..
if you need to clean engine - you must clean it on the tabble - no any super hiper liquid didnt do that better then specjalized person equiped with chemicall's + ultrasonic Bath.. forgot also about Mitsubishi dedicated foam who was on the past - thsi guy told me about that was for a while.. and on the past - curenly they stop cleaning engines this way ... moreover - for today that's not recommended. ( that was
if you have some time - this is the thread how to clean this hydraulics compenators on russian language - but when you see what this guy do, will be easy for You to understand the content without know thsi language ( i know Russian a bit xD ) .. : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n60iw79_5zo
do not make any flush by aggresive liquid molly chemical's or other's .. cause of carbon buildup, who's able to damage your engine more then You have currently . ... you do not need ANY liquid after engine cleaning - but you must just use good oil and change it often. ... i know here many user's who replace their lifters to new one - and problem back to them after few months .. ( they do that without engine cleaning first , and thsi carbon buildup again cloged small lifer hole's and was the same like before ) ... this engine like to be clean ;) .. so the previous owner is the key . if he didnt take care about thsi car before - then we have reults ... ( i have the same like You .. but .. + much more ) 3 times WC pump replacement, i must change fuel tank ( previous was corroded ) etc etc .. long story - 1,5y on fight / read / study / consultation's .. this weekend i must replace injectors + injection rail and clean fuel pressure regulator . ;) . so .. this knoocking is the really small problem .. ..
second movie : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmZFk6uDhlw
I am sort of agreeing with
I am sort of agreeing with the old fella, I noticed with my 2.4lt magna and now with my 1.8 iO that when it starts to tick (sounds like tappets) that it is time to change your oil and the problem goes away. I use penrite and won't use anything else.
I use the ticking sound for when I need to change the oil and filter. It meens the oil is past it's usable date and is to thin now.
Hi, I have had this with the
Hi,
I have had this with the pinin and other manufacturers cars. What I do is:
Use slick 50-this does not drain away and coats metal parts before start up. Fluid dynamics says it's easy for oil to flow where some oil is there already and not dry.
I used Castrol and there is tapping. Even with 5-30. Use Mobil 1 fully syn 5-40. Also sometimes with Castrol I get that white froth from short journeys, condensation reacting with Castrol . Like head gasket failure . It wasn't.
If you can remove the sump and clean the pickup pipe gauze this often solves it. The gauze is very fine and blocks over time. On start up the oil heats up. It thins out. This allows it to get though blocked holes a bit , it works its long way up to the tappets and the noise stops. Like low oil pressure, but the light only come on at dangerous low pressures.
Thin oil will pass through the small holes easier 0-5w. In a hot country it needs to be thick when hot. 40-50. W means-winter for cold thickness. So 5-40 covers many climates.
Change oil filter every time with OE genuine part. You can fill it with oil and fit, if you don't let dirt fall in.
The tapping is a known common fault. Changing hydraulic lifters does not seen to cure it permanently, it comes back. However most say as long as it goes away after a few seconds no serious damage is done, live with it.
I am sure I will get contradicted. I know what I did worked , it's not what some one said.
Syndicate
Thanks for your answers
Thanks for your answers ;D
Best Regards