2000 1.8 manual idling issue
Hi everyone,
I purchased a manual 1.8 mpi late last year, a month after purchasing it started to intermittantly hiccup every now and again at idle, it now alternates between low idle with the occasional need to accelerate to stop it stalling and high idle of around 1500 - 2000 rpm. When it high idles turning on the air con brings it back to normal but as soon as the compressor cycles off it revs up again. Things I have tried are:
New, plugs, coils and leads, replaced idle air control
Second hand air flow meter
Checked resistance of TPS, all good
Removed and cleaned the throttle body
Also tried disconnecting battery for a while then reconnected and let the car idle for 20 minutes
None of this has helped. the last three days it has been idling high, this is the longest it has stayed high and it was really starting to annoy the crap out of me, I have rego inspection booked in for tomorrow so was a bit concerned. I disconnected the battery again yesterday and let it sit for half an hour and now it is back to a lower idle with the occasional hiccup, I am wondering if it could be an ecu issue, I think I read something somewhere about the possibility.
Other issues it has is occasionally the doors won't lock with the remote (tried both I have with new batteries), have to lock with the key, unlocks okay with the remote a while later, sometimes putting the key back in the ignition turning to on then off will make the remote work. Also has electrical noise coming through the radio and significantly more over the UHF radio, don't know if these tie in with the possibility of an ecu problem.
Really like this car but it is giving me grief so I am hoping someone has an idea or could possibly point me in the right direction to where I should take it to get sorted.
TIA any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Steven.
Hi Fordem and thanks for the
Hi Fordem and thanks for the reply,
Engine light comes on with ignition and goes out after a second or two after starting.
Accelerator cable is adjusted so there is no tension on throttle at all, when it idles high it can jump around from 1k - 2k rpm so I don't think it is the cable.
I will give the courtesy lights some love and see how that goes.
Plugs are NGK BKR5E-11 leads are Eagle E54590 5.0mm from ebay, pack has them as for 4G93/94, 1996 onward.
Cheers Steven
You could try again with
You could try again with taking the battery out then doing a long idle. Try and get the battery out for at least a whole night, put the key in and go to start it like normal once or twice, shold make sure any capacitance sitting around is emptied too. Then for the idle leave it for a bit longer, 30 mins I think.
I remember a similar problem with my car quite a while ago, although I don't think it was as bad as yours seems. I also cannot remember for the life of me if the above fixed it or if it just went away on it's own sorry.
Finally got it down to a faulty TPS
Previously tested TPS and I thought it was fine, I had already purchased a Tridon brand replacement off ebay so I finally put it in. The little bugger was back to normal! But it only lasted a couple of weeks and started to idle all over the place and at times just die.
The replacement Tridon TPS had failed as well and it was around 140$. I found a cheaper 21$ alternative on ebay whacked it in last week, ran fine for a few days and the problem is back, when I test resistance between pins 2 & 4 and slowly open the throttle the value jumps all over the place.
Is anyone able to advise why it keeps frying the TPS? Only thing I can think is it may be spiking more than 5v into it at times, with ignition on it is only 5v.
I have another cheapie TPS on the way but likely is going to end up going the same way so am keen for any advice or thoughts.
Cheers
Steven
The TPS is nothing more than a variable resistor
The chances of a spike on the 5V line "frying" the TPS alone are slim to non-existent - it's nothing more than a variable resistor, not particularly sensitive to voltage spikes, and that 5V line feeds a lot more stuff that will fry long before the TPS.
Your problem is more likely to be either a connector issue or poor quality replacements.
I'd like to share with you my experience with oil pressure switches - another "not particularly sensitive to voltahe spikes" component. I've been in the habit of fitting an oil pressure gauge to all of my vehicles, and one day whilst I was some distance outside of the city, made a left turn and so the oil pressure light come on - not exactly a welcome sight, but the gauge showed that I had oil pressure so I continued. I got back to the city without further incident and replaced the oil pressure switch which solved the problem, for a month.
I went through several of those switches, replacing them every coupld of weeks, and said to my supplier, I want a switch that's going to last me longer than a month, the reply I got went along the lines of "mate, that's going to be difficult". I then took my business elsewhere - I found a supplier of british electrical components, and after verifying the thread size, fitted an oil pressure switch intended for a bedford truck - it's been there now for about three years, during which time the engine has been removed & rebuilt - the switch is still there, still working.
Use megazip.net, get yourself a genuine Mitsubishi part, I'll bet that lasts.
Syndicate
Does the check engine light
Does the check engine light come on when you turn the ignition on and go out after you start the engine?
Is the accelerator cable correctly adjusted?
Regarding the central locking issue, I would start by cleaning all of the courtesy light switches and making sure they are properly grounded - there's one on every door. Electrical noise through the radios suggest the plug and/or leads may not be the correct type - what plugs & leads are you using?