4x4 Centre lock light flickering
Hello Guys,
I recently have a problem with my centre lock light flickering. When I idle its flicker constant (on-off) as soon as I drive off it increases. The faster I drive the faster is flickers until its completely orange (at +- 110km/h) is there a sensor or something that is not working correctly? Is there maintenance on something that I miss and this is the way to show me? Please help as this irretates the crap out of me.
Nice one SAL! I have the
Nice one SAL!
I have the flashing problem with mine to, but only when i put it in the 4x4 modes, I just ignore it as, like you say, its just an electrical problem with switches to the lights. All the 4x4 modes work perfectly.
I would like to fix it up some day when I get off my lazy arse tho :)
hello Sal, thanks a mil for
hello Sal, thanks a mil for the info ill try to sort it out over the weekend. you gave me a awesome breakdown so dont think ill have a problem getting it fixed. on the keyless entry-my io is a 2000 model that still have a normal oldschool key. if i had a keyless i would have gladly helped you. sorry boet
No, but I was born in SA
No, but I was born in SA (South Australia) 
Id like to visit someday, do some hang gliding there! I know a local pilot, and also have a lot of south African friends here in Australia.
My wife is from Seychelles where we would like to live half of each year, I have met a heap of SA people living there too. after tqalking to everyone imboth scared and interested in visiting the place :) hopefully next trip to Seychelles we will finally make it down to SA also.
Greens or Oranges?
YEA BROTHER
is it your greens flashing or the orange. From what i gathered when i was searching for answers myself is that every one has this problem at some stage.
cheers
Sal
Its my greens, the orange is OK. But the rear wheel greens NEVER come on at all, I assume they are meant to stay on all the time?
lol ok seems next time we
lol ok seems next time we speak about south africa we'll say RSA (republic of south africa). you guys should come visit we have beautifull country. my uncle use to live in newcastle (aus) for about 2 years. we worked for BAE systems there. said its a lovely city full of winyards
warning - green light can be bad
THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT THIS IS NOT A MECHANICAL ISSUE. its simply to notify the driver wat mode they are in. when the switches crap out it just confuses itself and starts flashing.
WARNING if it is the green 4wd lights flickering it MAY damage the transfer box.
on later models the back of the transfer box has an electric/hydraulic clutch that is actuated by the same signal that illuminates the green lights. one of my switches crapped out and caused the clutch to cycle rapidly while i was driving and resulted in it blowing.
electric/hydraulic clutch ?
THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT THIS IS NOT A MECHANICAL ISSUE. its simply to notify the driver wat mode they are in. when the switches crap out it just confuses itself and starts flashing.
WARNING if it is the green 4wd lights flickering it MAY damage the transfer box.
on later models the back of the transfer box has an electric/hydraulic clutch that is actuated by the same signal that illuminates the green lights. one of my switches crapped out and caused the clutch to cycle rapidly while i was driving and resulted in it blowing.
Can you explain this a bit more, maybe a diagram or something....
My new io have problem with these light, the only thing working is the orange light that is flashing all the time !!!
I had a look, thinking to just find a faulty switch....but someone had a try to fix it before and the wires of the 3 switches have been cut and swapped around !!! So I have a bit of work in front of me to solve this one.
Anyway, my main question is about your electric/hydraulic clutch as I think that the wiring have been played with a while ago and that the green light have been off for a while.
Happy io
Claude - I suggest you ignore this...
As far as I'm aware - there is no electro-hydraulic clutch on the transfer case in the iO - the operation/selection is completely manual from the shift lever - so if your new iO has the same shift lever as the old one - ignore the post.
If you check the automatic transmission section of the manual you'll find the details of the wiring and troubleshooting details for the switches & lights.
thanks
Thanks, ignoring...easy to do :) I pass a bit of time to work out what is happening and found some info in the manual. I found 4 faulty switches and 2 wires have been swapped around. I think someone had a try to fix it but ...wasn't very succesful !!
Later, I will make a thread to explain (what I understood anyway) how these switches work and how to check them while they are on the car. I didn't see the wiring or troubleshouting details. What I found was in 22D-9-13 and the next page. Too many of us get confused with these light and how to find the faulty one.
Thanks
Hey buddy ok those are the 3
Hey buddy
ok those are the 3 that you are not concerned with (provided the problem is the same as mine)
the other 2 wires are about 1.5 foot closer to the front of the Pajero. Its easier to see them if you are looking from the other side of which this picture is taken ( the left side if you are looking out the front windscreeen)
I might be wrong but there are 2 black wires in this picture ( bottom center ) im pretty sure they are the other 2 . If its not its close to that area. they look exactly like the ones you can see only that the wire is longer..
remember you are not looking for the plug that the wires connect to (plastic) you are looking for the bolt that goes into the case. this is the switch.
cheers
sal
so if I understand it
so if I understand it correctly you have to actually unbolt it from the transmission, but that means that the transmission fluids will also pour out. or is there a different way? maby I can unbolt it and quickly put a plug in.... that way I'll lose some fluid but at least not all.....
As I understand this yellow light is a very common problem, wonder if Mitsubishi ever looked into it to try and fix the issue for later models.....
Is it flickering or flashing?
There's a fair bit of misinformation in this thread - my temptation is to suggest you start a new one, and I'll help you diagnose the problem there.
I'm fairly familiar with the 4WD system on the iO, having had to work my way through it on my iO, where the problem turned out to be a broken wire in the harness.
Mitsubishi equipped the 4WD system with a number of switches and a controller whose sole function is to flash the dash lights when things are not where they should be, based on the feed back from the switches - of course if a switch fails or a wire breaks - the controller doesn't know that the 4WD syste is fully functional and it's getting incorrect feedback.
Flashing..
There's a fair bit of misinformation in this thread - my temptation is to suggest you start a new one, and I'll help you diagnose the problem there.
I'm fairly familiar with the 4WD system on the iO, having had to work my way through it on my iO, where the problem turned out to be a broken wire in the harness.
Mitsubishi equipped the 4WD system with a number of switches and a controller whose sole function is to flash the dash lights when things are not where they should be, based on the feed back from the switches - of course if a switch fails or a wire breaks - the controller doesn't know that the 4WD syste is fully functional and it's getting incorrect feedback.
Hi, fordem...
My Pajero TR4 Super Select indicators are flashing (the front axle), as when you switch from 4x2 to 4x4H, when it briefly flashes, then it stands..... the 4WD is working fine, but when in 4x2 the front axle lights doesn't turn off, it keeps flashing.
This started after I did a diff drop using spacers of 1", after lifting the Pajero TR4 3" and noticing the CV and tie rods angles were bad...
Would it be any kind of correlated events? Is there any kind of sensors, wires, that may be malfunctioning due to the drop differencial?
Thanks in advance...
Daniel
Short answer is yes.
Not directly due to the diff drop, but more related to the work done installing it - there is a wire and a couple of vacuum tubes that go between the body & the diff assembly and when the diff was lowered, these may have become disconnected or damaged.
The iO (or in your case TR4) is equipped with a vacuum operated freewheel mechanism on the front differential - when you select 4WD a switch on the transfer case energizes two vacuum solenoids which operate the free wheel mechanism, and there are two more switches, a second on the transfer case and the third on the front differential assembly, that send signals to the 4WD indicator ECU to tell it that 4WD has been selected and the free wheel mechanism has engaged.
If the 4WD indicator ECU detects an incorrect combination of signals from these last two switches you'll get flashing front wheel lights ...
The possible combinations are ...
2WD engaged + front axle disengaged = rear wheel lights only
2WD engaged + front axle engaged = rear wheel lights + flashing front wheel lights
4WD engaged + front axle disengaged = rear wheel lights + flashing front wheel lights.
4WD engaged + front axle engaged = rear wheel lights + front wheel lights
Since you say the 4WD works fine, my suspicion is that the switch on the front axle mechanism is either disconnected or you've pinched the wiring, shorting it to the chassis - it's also possible that you have one of the vacuum tubes disconnected, but that should cause the front axle not to engage (or more likely disengage), but that would perhaps show up in heavier steering (which you may or may not notice) in 2WD.
Start by sliding underneath and checking all the wires & hoses leading to the front axle - the switch wiring is on the left side, the vacuum solenoids are on the right - make sure they are connected and not pinched and once that's out of the way, we can get a meter or test lamp and actually troubleshoot the problem.
Incidentally - I have not worked on the front freewheel controls/wiring - just the center lock, but the front free wheel is very simple, I have the drawings, and once the weather is cp-operative, I can get under my vehicle and see what's where.
Problem solved!
Don't forget the vacuum lines.
Well.... job done.... pulled out my skid plate, and checked all the hosing/wiring... ey voilá..
as the diff dropped, one (ou of three) little rubber hose was pulled from its place...
Just reconcted it and we're ready to go!
Thanks again fordem!!
Cheers!
Other vacuum pipes leaking
Ok just crawled in underneath the IO and looked at the pipes you showed but all was in & not perised. But I saw one on the vacuum system that was broken. Did not have any pipe at the house to fix it so can say if my light will go off. Just a FYI for the guys to have a look at.
Start by IDENTIFYING the problem
Fielies - those vacuum lines relate to the front differential's freewheel clutch system - any fault there will be shown by flashing of two green "front wheel" lights - a flashing amber center lock light (which is what you first post suggests you have) points to a transfer case related fault.
There are three lights (not five) and each has it's own significance - and - when flashing pin points a different problem area.
Just changed the low range
Just changed the low range gearing to 1.944 and not i have the orange light constantly on.
But the good news is the flashing front green light has not gone LOL. I assume because i put all the vacume hoses back on after doing the diff swap where as before one may have been off?
So im not sure what i may have done to the Transfer case to cause the orrange light. everything seems to be working fine. maybe damaged wire? dies it need a signal for the light to come on, or a signal to make the light stay off? might have to get out there with the multi meter and check it out. just double checking what plug is responsible for the orange center lock light?
There are two switches
There are two switches, and therefore two connections that affect that light - they have brown connectors - you should have continuity beween the connector terminal and the transfer case housing with the shift lever in the Lc positions.
You can find these details in section 23 (pg23-38) of the FSM (automatic transmission) - if one switch fails, the light flashes rather than coming on when it should.
Because the light is on and not flashing - I suspect something internal may be incorrectly assembled or the shift lever incorrectly installed - the switches have a tendency to fail "open" and even if they did fail "closed", both failing closed is not very likely.
The diff lights, the diff lights the dreaded diff lights!
Hi buddy and a warm thank you and gratitude for all your work and supporting everyone on this. I am based in England UK and I have the IO equivalent which is known as the pinin here my model is 2004. My Orange differential lights blink constantly and get faster as I drive faster, do I also have the vacuum operated freewheel mechanism you've mentioned or is mine a more archaic and Albeit simple 5 switch in the transfer box situation?
Lights Flashing
My 4WD indicator lights have been flashing for a while and have figured out its not a mechanical issue but yesterday using it on the beach the transfer box has locked itself into 4wd HiLow when it was selected and i now can't move it out of 4WD.
Any ideas on ho to fix this issue wuld b great thanks
Jack one end of the vehicle up
to relieve drive train wind up and try again - if you can't get the CDL disengaged slide under the front and wire the freewheel clutch actuator to the disenenaged position which I believe is to the right (you'll be able to rotate the left front wheel when it's disengaged.
Syndicate
Hey buddy I just had the
Hey buddy
I just had the exact same problem!! flashin at idel and the harder i rev the faster it flashes. the bottom line is that this should not flash at all when you are in normal driving mode and should be always orange when you are in off road mode. it should only ever flash when it is selecting the drive mode or ( in your case) it is faulty or confused
undernieth the car there are 5 wires running to the transfer case etc. these run to switches that are connected to the transfer case etc. The switches bolt into the transfer case and have a ball bearing that must act as the switch when the 4wd operation lever is in a certain position.
one of the switches is stuck, or broken. you can do a simple check of which one is broken by getting under your car and unplugging them one by one from the connectors to see which one makes the orange light go away. 2 of these 5 wires are to do with the orange light 3 are to do with the green lights . of the 2 orange wires one is for when is is in off road and one is for when it is for on road.
now to confuse you more 3 of the switches are lockated on the transfer case and 2 are lockated on the transmision. It is one of the 2 switches on the transmision that is faulty. ( this was the case with me anyway)
THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT THIS IS NOT A MECHANICAL ISSUE. its simply to notify the driver wat mode they are in. when the switches crap out it just confuses itself and starts flashing.
If you dont care about the light just unplug it ( this is what i have done) it will stop flashing.
if you do care about the light see if you can fix it. find out which one is casuing the problem, take it out, and see if you can un jam it or re wire it ( if you know what you are doing). if you cannot fix it just order a new swith ( costs $60 Australian dollars so maybe about 360rand)
just make sure you do not take it to the dealer to fix, they will charge you $100 AUD a switch until they find the one that it broken ( which will be the last one if they work on it )
if you dont understand this just write back to me im happy to help
cheers
now if you can do me a favour!!!! if you have a keyless entry system can you please tell me what codes are on the back of your remote.???
thanks mate
SAL