DIY - replace in-tank fuel filter

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bob_oz
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I was quoted $450 to replace the in tank filter. This should be done about the same time as the timing belt and if you are going country probably every 60,000kms

Ryco Z658 cost $70 and filter replacement took about 20 minutes. you can get them from ebay delivered for about $50 but i was unsure of the model and didn't want to post a return back. The Z658 is suitable for all MPI models (2.0, 1.8, 1.6)

1) disconnect the positive terminal of the battery

2) remove the rear seat cushion by gently pulling the front edge up - it is held down by two clips that just need to be yanked free

3) unscrew the four screws holding down the square cover closest to the fuel filler side

 

4) thoroughly dust off the tank access port and disconnect the gauge plug, high-pressure and two low pressure fuel hoses. you will find they will tuck neatly out of the way under the floor. The high pressure hose disconnects by gently depressing the two buttons either side of the hose end (clips are in-line with blue sticker in larger  pic below)

5) Gently remove the pump housing - remember that the filter and gauge point towards the front of the car. 

6) dissassemble the pump assembly, this picture is not 100% accurate but will get you close enough - I did the following:
* unplug all connectors (1 and 2) from filter unit (13) - be gentle with the black wire earth plug
* disconnect the top of both hoses (12) from filter housing (13) then remove the plastic section that (10) points down into (9 - but my 9 was larger) the remove 10 with hoses (12) still attached
* remove high pressure release plug from filter housing (13) it is clipped on with two clips about 40mm below the high pressure outlet
* unclip the pump housing (8) from the filter housing (13) while supporting the feed tube (6) so it also pulls out of 13 - this is a bit tricky and you need to be gnetle to the three clips as the plastic on mine looked brittle

replace filter housing and re-assemble in reverse order paying attention to the positioning of the wiring harness around the feed tube and the pump cussion (4)

my pump housing felt a bit lose on my filter housing but works fine

 

Afterwards I cut my old filter in half - filter should be white - mne is grey/brown as it was solid with mud! and my car now goes much faster and displays more torque.

.

fordem
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Are there two filters or just one?

The iO has what Mitsubishi refers to as a "main" tank and a "sub" tank - even though it's physically one tank.  There are two gauge senders, each equipped with it's own low fuel light sensor, and as far as I know, only one fuel pump, in the main tank, and a venturi arrangement which draws fuel from the sub tank - the way the system works, the sub tank empties first, and when fuel is added it will first enter the main tank and then "over flow" into the sub, so the sub fills last.

The parts diagrams I'm looking at show TWO filter part numbers - MR450542 (the one you've replaced) and MB129895 - which as far as I can tell appears to be on the sub tank gauge sender/pickup assembly - the assemblies seem to be the same on both the GDI (which I have) and the MPI fuel tanks.

 

bob_oz
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Two filers

I suspect that there are two fiters, i'm going to pull the sub tank assembly out shortly. Only issue is that only the main tank filter is available as after market

.

Claude io
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filter

Beautiful....

you wrote

5) Gently remove the pump housing - remember that the filter and gauge point towards the front of the car.

From memory, I wouldn't worry too much as the assembly can only go back in one way.

Happy  io.

bob_oz
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one way

correct - but it is easy to snag the filter on the hump in the tank if you try and put it in sideways

.

fordem
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It's also easier ...

To not have to rotate it into position - so lean it forward so the float hangs down, slip the float through the opening and then swing the assembly upright and guide it into place - I've had mine out twice during the past weekend.

Claude io
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Number of filter

fordem wrote:

The iO has what Mitsubishi refers to as a "main" tank and a "sub" tank - even though it's physically one tank.  There are two gauge senders, each equipped with it's own low fuel light sensor, and as far as I know, only one fuel pump, in the main tank, and a venturi arrangement which draws fuel from the sub tank - the way the system works, the sub tank empties first, and when fuel is added it will first enter the main tank and then "over flow" into the sub, so the sub fills last.

The parts diagrams I'm looking at show TWO filter part numbers - MR450542 (the one you've replaced) and MB129895 - which as far as I can tell appears to be on the sub tank gauge sender/pickup assembly - the assemblies seem to be the same on both the GDI (which I have) and the MPI fuel tanks.

 

I removed the other side to have a look and check the filter. I could only find a mesh type filter, similar to the one at the bottom of the fuel pump. Unless damaged, a quick clean should be more than enough. Unless I missed something, I didn't see other filter.

Happy io

 

rhorsewood
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Hey Guys, Sorry I know this

Hey Guys,

Sorry I know this is an old thread, hopefully you guys are still around?

I did this replacement the other day. Found it pretty easy and everything went smoothly. Car runs great however takes a few turns of the engine to start which it didnt do before?

Could it be an air lock in the fuel system Ive created? cant really think of anything else?

Any ideas?

 
bob_oz
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mine was the same

I had exactly the same issue.

Q did you pull the o ring out of the new filter and fit it over the pump stem prior to fitting or just shove the pump stem into the botom of the filter with the o ring up inside?

I had to hook out the oring, fit onto pump stem then lube it to the max to get it into the filter.

if you tont 100% check that it is sealed air gets in there and the pump leaks fuel out when running. Short term no issues except a few more cracks to start, long term pump will wear out and also filter will wash.

Hope this helps.

.

rhorsewood
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That sounds like the

That sounds like the issue......

 

thanks for the feedback. Ill have a look at it later tonight and let you know how I go.

rhorsewood
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Bob can I just confirm

Bob can I just confirm looking at the diagram earlier in the thread where abouts is the o-ring?

just so Im not looking at something else?

Claude io
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fuel filter

Bob will confirm this....I don't see the o-ring on the diagram. From memory there are 2 of those, they are in the filter section, in 2 of the solid tube  Bob done it one way by fitting one on the pipe. I did spray some silicon in both tube were the o-ring are (in the new filter), check that the o-ring were properly positioned in the bottom (they were sideways, probably moved during storage/transport). Press the pump back in position, making sure that the clips are properly fitted. I didn't have problem doing it this way.... but that doesn't mean that it is the way of doing it :) 

If you remove it, disconnect the new filter (like when you first got it out a the box) then look in the solid tube, you will see them....you should anyway. one may have fall or gone missing....could happen...

Happy io

bob_oz
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oring

It's the top item marked 7n on the diagram and you can actually see the dark gray fat oring in the photo of the chopped filter.

Main aim is to ensure the plastic high pressure tube from the pump up to the filter is sealed 100%. Fitting it into the filter with the oring fitted to the tube is the only sure way and it is Damn hard to press back in by hand.

Also make sure the rubber pad under the pump is positioned correctly as if not the pump will sit too low.

.

Claude io
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o ring

There are 2 other o-ring in the new filter, I wasn't thinking of this one in my post.....but important too

Happy io

rhorsewood
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Hey Guys, thanks for the

Hey Guys, thanks for the feedback.

Sorry taking ages getting back to you..... Long Easter break :)

So the problem Im facing is actually the new filter has a slightly different fitting on one of the hose connections on the top. Im going to need to retro fit a better seal than what I first did. Shouldnt be difficult just a pain in the arse. Apart from that the filter is identical I believe (Ryco Z658).

O-Rings are all seated properlyt and Im currently running the old filter again. Ill work up goo hose connection this weekend and post a pic.

 

Thanks again

Claude io
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fuel filter

Interesting...

bob_oz
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wrong filter

Cooper list two filters for the io, early and late, the ryco is only for the latter model ios, not the pre 2001-september ones. Will work fine just minor differences.

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plummer
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I looked for this filter for

I looked for this filter for my 2004, 2.0 Gdi Pinin and didn't find it to buy in UK.

Can someone confirm if this filter is ok for my Pinin or is it a different model?

PS: The dealer said these are "long life" filters and they are changed very rare. Is it true?

Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one's own courage

bob_oz
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fuel filters

yep - changed every 160,000 or there abouts from memory

.

Excelsior
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Attempted filter change

I attempted a change of the fuel filter today. I may have been sold a defective filter assembly from one of the local shops. Everything else was correct on the fuel filter assembly except for the fuel tank assist pump slot; it contained a divider in the middle of the slot and it was missing a hole for the fuel tank assist pump to align with. Tried it anyway but the vehicle wouldn't start. There was fuel running through the high pressure hose but none coming back through the fuel return hose. Where might I locate a fuel filter assembly for a 2000 2.0 4G94 GDI (H77W-0203912)

Also. What's the purpose of the #2 connector on the fuel filter assembly?

bob_oz
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ah that's crap

no good!

that must be an old design  - ive never seen that in my 2002 MPI filters.

what is the #2 fitting?

mine has three:
- HP fuel out
- LP fuel return from fuel rail and
- LP fuel transfer from other saddle (moved via venturi from LP fuel return)

one major failure of the filters is the HP overpressure o-ring, it comes shoved into the port from new but the bung needs to have the O-ring fitted to the bung before insertion into the filter, you cannot just shove the bung in and hope the o-ring seats because it's just pushed deeper into the filter.

results in low/zero fuel pressure to engine as it just bypasses back into the tank via the over-pressure release

.

albertoaraya
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FUEL tank - mitsubishi Junior io h77w

PART NUMBERS


FUEL FILTER : MB906933 , FUEL PUMP : MR497143 ( IN FUEL TANK )
FUEL TANK ASSIST PUMP : MR431128

 

Mitsubishi Junior IO , H77WLNUEL1NQ
Engine : 4G94 Ext : WH2A , Trans Axle : V5M21 4900 , MPI
2.0L 2000CC l4 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspi

Fousion
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Hi, Before I go ahead and

Hi,

Before I go ahead and change the fuel pump, can someone help me locate and check fuse/relay for the fuel pump?

Regards.

Fou

Fousion Panapa

fordem
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.

The iO apparently does not have a dedicated fuel pump fuse, the pump, along with a whole bunch of engine control stuff, is fed from fuse #6 (10A) in the under hood fuse panel, via the relay shown in the diagram above - fuse #6 should be just to the right of the fuel pump relay

Fousion
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.

Many thanks, FORDEM.

Really appreciate your response and for your continued support to help others.

I'll take another look at the fuse box and inspect thoroughly. However, I'm still unsure why my vehicle is hesitating to start. I've just bought a new battery NS60 but the car still won't start. Someone had suggested checking fuel pump thus stalling onto this thread for some help. This incident occurred right after changing all 4 spark plugs. I'd used "Denso 3009 Q20R-U11 U-Groove Plug" for this change as the previous owner had used them before. Reason for changing spark plug was because sometimes when I'm driving closing up onto a roundabout or intersection and or junction, my vehicle stalls and shuts off completely but this rarely happens. However, it's noticeable that sometimes it misfires. And there slightly a change to its performance when driving uphill hence the attempt to change the spark plug.

Not sure what could be the root cause of the problem but, I'll check the fuse box again.

 

Fousion Panapa

fordem
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Are you using the correct plugs?

I don't know which version of the iO you have, or what engine is in it, but that is where I would start looking - the battery is probably not an issue - battery related problems can generally be resolved with one question - does it crank when you turn the key, if the answer is yes, the problem is not battery related.

Fousion
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Maybe, but I may have bought the wrong plugs (Q20R-U11)

Are you using the correct plugs? 
Not sure, but I have put back the old spark plug that I intend to change with new "Denso 3009 Q20R-U11 U-Groove Plug". The old spark plug that I have put back is an MD355067 NGK BKR6EKUC.

I drive a GDI 4 door Pajero IO 1.8L, Chassis No: H76W0101714, Engine: 4G93.

Does it crank?
Yes, it cranks. It was cranking before I bought a new battery. I've been told by many that it's usually the battery thus I went ahead and got it replaced. Now, that we have ruled out the battery theory over to the next possible issue.

Hmm.... a friend told me that it might be the starter? I just don't know where to look and or where to locate it. How do I know if the starter isn't working? Could this be a possible problem if the battery is ok and its cranking when the key is turned on?

Fousion Panapa

fordem
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Find yourself a good mechanic...

Fousion wrote:

Are you using the correct plugs? 
Not sure, but I have put back the old spark plug that I intend to change with new "Denso 3009 Q20R-U11 U-Groove Plug". The old spark plug that I have put back is an MD355067 NGK BKR6EKUC.

I drive a GDI 4 door Pajero IO 1.8L, Chassis No: H76W0101714, Engine: 4G93.

Does it crank?

Yes, it cranks. It was cranking before I bought a new battery. I've been told by many that it's usually the battery thus I went ahead and got it replaced. Now, that we have ruled out the battery theory over to the next possible issue.

Hmm.... a friend told me that it might be the starter? I just don't know where to look and or where to locate it. How do I know if the starter isn't working? Could this be a possible problem if the battery is ok and its cranking when the key is turned on?

Find yourself a good mechanic and stop listening to well meaning friends who haven't got a clue as to what they are talking about.

The starter has one purpose - to crank the engine over so that it can start - if the engine cranks (turns over when the key is turned to the start position) then the starter is doing what it should.

The battery has two purposes - the first is to supply electrical energy to the starter so it can start the engine, and the second is to supply electrical energy when the alternator is not producing enough - if the engine cranks, the battery is more than likely good.

The starter, by the way, is under the intake manifold, and is a pain in the backside to remove - you'll need to remove the entire intake to just see the starter and the top bolt holding it can only be reached from under the car - plan on spending an entire day just removing and replacing it.

Next - based on the frame number provided - your iO is a 1999 LRXC ZR model with the 1.8 GDI engine - the correct plug is the BKR6EKUC - I suggest you stick with that and no other plug unless you know why you're changing it - the GDI engines are perhaps unusually sensitive to the type of plug used, the BKR6EKUC is a "semi surface discharge" type plug designed to burn away carbon deposits (which are common in GDI engines) that would short conventional plugs and cause misfires - conventional plugs will work, but in my experience will not perform as well as the BKREKUC, and be prepared to change the plugs frequently - I have tried platinum plugs in an attempt to get longer periods between plug changes and was disappointed with the results, I took them out after less than 24 hours, at some point I will try irridium, but for now I'm sticking with the BKR6EKUC.

If the problem is a misfire it's unlikely to be fuel pump related - let me be more precise - it's unlikely to be related to the low pressure in-tank fuel pump.

Other possible causes of misfires are the coil packs - remove the "lance" or "probe" that sits between the coil and the plug and use a pencil style wire brush in a rotary tool to clean the ends of the springs that make contact and also the screw head in the coil pack - look for traces or arcing on the underside of the coil pack in the area under the base of the probe - I've had coil packs burn through the bakelite and arc to the cylinder head.

For what it's worth - my car is a 1998 LRPC Sorrent - with the same engine & transmission as yours, and I believe the same color - Palma Red over Hamilton Silver.

Fousion
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Many thanks for the help and

Many thanks for the help and advice. I'm still stuck with a vehicle that doesn't start. I've called a couple of mechanics to check my iO but none of them is committed or keen to help check my iO. I live far away from the city and convincing a mechanic is sometimes challenging. Probably they don't want to be involved with something that'll consume a lot of their time - noting I live far away I'm from the city. But, I can't be sure about that - but they just won't call back. I have also been asked to bring vehicle over to their garage - I'm not going to do that yet because the toeing company chargers are ridiculous and expensive.

Btw, I had one mechanic/taxi driver who was kind enough to carry out a quick inspection of the vehicle. He picked & dropped me home after work and offered to help, I assisted him as he troubleshoot - without any proper tools he stuck his ear near the fuel tank and asked me to turn the key - I repeated this 3 times before turning the key to full to crank engine - still nothing, vehicle would crank but hesitate to start. 3 attempts of this and he concluded that it may be due to a failing fuel pump. He said that he could not hear any sound/noise from the fuel tank - he presumes that this could indicate a bad and or failing fuel pump that's not supplying fuel to the engine.

I wasn't convinced at the time, but after some research, I think the guy may be right. In this vBlog, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWfLpp8NevI Robert shares 5 symptoms or signs of a bad or failing fuel pump, to my knowledge my iO is below 150k on the odometer readings and I may say I've experienced all these symptoms for the last 3 - 4 weeks. I'm beginning to think that it may be the fuel pump but I may be wrong too. I just want a mechanic to come and test fuel pressure and tell me whether or not I'm getting between 35-40 PSI from fuel valve or may have to wait for a little longer for proper help from a real/good mechanic. Is there an old school way to test/check if fuel is going to the engine?

I'll get back with an update if anything :)

 

 

 

Fousion Panapa

albertoaraya
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Hey amigo! That could be four

Hey amigo!

That could be four things :

 

1.) bad spark plugs ...so you need to replace them ...

You can buy the spark plugs on ebay ...

MD350292

MS851727 

MS851357 

 

2.) bad ignition coil ...

2 units of  MD362907

1 unit of MD334043  

 
3.) mass air flow sensor...
 
MD343605
 
 
4.) clean the fuel injectors...
 
Fuel injector :  MR507252  .. try this website : www.partsouq.com
 
 
 

 

Mitsubishi Junior IO , H77WLNUEL1NQ
Engine : 4G94 Ext : WH2A , Trans Axle : V5M21 4900 , MPI
2.0L 2000CC l4 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspi

Fousion
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GDI High Pressure Fuel Pump

Hi Guys,

Good to be back. I've been away and I'm back and I still have the same problem sad

Btw, I've finally found a good mechanic who knew what he was doing. 

Can someone please let me know where can I find or purchase online a high-pressure pump? Any leads?

I live in Fiji and I cannot find a pressure pump in the local spare parts stores.

Thanks,

Fou

 

Fousion Panapa

saul
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Have you checked

Have you checked out https://www.amayama.com/en 

 

Seems to be the best place I find

 

 

ChrisiO
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Hey guys, not sure if this is

Hey guys, not sure if this is going to be seen by anyone, but hopefully it's useful to someone. Just changed my fuel filter using the filter Bob suggested above (Ryco Z658). Everything fitted straight up except for one of the return lines. The ryco filters don't have the ring around the return low pressure nozzle which the io's need to clip on to.

I ended up having to go to pirtek and buying some 10mm I.d fuel hose and some worm drive clamps and cutting the end of the hose off and joining it with the short length of fuel hose I bought. Seems to work, but certainly not ideal. Worth noting too, the oem fuel filters are denso so if possible I would try and find those.

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