ECU experoences

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Mountainman
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First: Relevant details.  Pajero 1  2000 iO H76W 1800 4G93    Pajero 2  1999 iO H76W 1800 4G93  both in South Africa. Identical vehicles except colour.
Pajero 1 bought 10 years ago and ran well until 4 years ago. Full engine overhauled six years ago. Had issues with camshaft sensor but since sorted.

One day the car just died. Appeared to be crank sensor (no spark). Replaced crank sensor but left ignition on too long and burnt a coil. Replaced coil but no start. Took the car to a specialist and he claimed crank pulley faulty. After 8 months collected the car and figured out they switched coil plug with crank sensor plug. That explains why diagnostics showed no crank sensor activity. Correctly wired it but still no ignition.
Recently offered another iO for good price, running but misfire. Appears one coil is damaged so I replaced the coil and spark plugs. Coil still dead so car runs on two cylinders.

Took out both ECU's and had them tested. It appears Pajero 2 has an intermittant error on the coil signals. Pajero 1 does not generate any coil signals.  The technician showed me that the logic chip on Pajero 1 is blown and the same chip on Pajero2 is likely also faulty. (Remember when I left the ignition on? That is likely when it blew) These chips are not available in South Africa.  Lettering on the chip is SKD05 and SK9122 on one and just SKD05 on the other.   I am now importing SKD05 chips claimed to be for Mitsu ECU's. Second set of numbers is SK8411.  I hope they will work.
Been told that when I solder in the new chips the car should run. No reflashing of the ecu is required.  ECU model part number for both cars are MR507104.
Considered changing to Dicktator engine management but it will cost the same and according to the specialist "nothing will work as well as an original."

Been quoted excorbitant prices for ECU's with some "experts" saying reflashing is necessary and other saying it should be plug and play. Personally I think it is not the modern versions with key recognition and all those niceties. Will have to test after fixing the ECU's.

Found another car being stripped with similar engine and gearbox, but the two door. The code is H65W and the ECU number MR507099. Bought it and will test soon. 
Delivery of the chips is expected 5 May, after which I will have them soldered in and then install it in the cars.
Once this is done I will post an update on the progress and what we've learnt since.

So far I've learnt that sometimes things go wrong, but some Pajero specialists and auto electricians has even less of a clue where to start. Research and google!!!! 
Update to follow mid May.
Would love to hear opinions and advice on the above so far. Thanks for reading.

Mountainman
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Update:  Received the chips

Update:  Received the chips and had them replaced in the faulty ECU's.  Pajero2 had a broken line on the pc board which was replaced with a copper wire.  The "spare" ecu was also faulty with the same chip blown. Had that fixed as well since I have spare chips.

Blue Pajero 2 now starts and runs much better. There may still be a small issue with a misfire but both coils are now firing, so this may just be a plug wire issue or injector.

Green Pajero 1 ecu replaced, and still not starting. Will now test for spark and fuel. Car had been standing for long so will check fuel supply etc.

Need to find someone in Johannesburg, South Africa with MUT2 or 3 diagnostics.

It seems the SKD05 chip is a weak point in the iO ECU's  and if you have spark issues, eliminate first the crank sensor, then coil and then ecu chip.

Further update to follow.

Mountainman
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Further update:  Been busy

Further update:  Been busy with other cars so have not worked on the iO's for a bit.

Had both ECU's tested and one was faulty. Replaced both chips and tested all ok.  Replaced the No1 coil connector on the blue car as it was suspect.,  Car still starts but only runs on two cylinders. (2 and 3)  I have 12v on the coil and about 7v on the signal wire. Brand new coil.    Have not tried the green Pajero yet. Trying to get the easier (?) running car going to use as a test bed for the green car.

My mind keeps telling me this could be a very small stupid fault and that gives me hope. But so far I've spent a small fortune and wondering if it is worth it. Apologies, just negative because I can not find the problem. Hope to try again soon.

Anyone prepared to test voltage on their coil to confirm if mine is correct?  

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