Engine oil
Valvoline 10w40 premium conventional.
For all you castrol users - keep a close eye on the oil as you pour it into the engine - especially as you get to the bottom of each bottle - does it suddenly get darker?
I've found that Castrol forms a sludge in the sealed bottle on the shelf. I will never again use it.
Synth oil
I recently moved to fully synthetic on my daily driver Peugeot diesel (does 40,000kms per year) on the advice of a local independent peugeot/citroen specialist and 10,000 kms on it seems to run really well on it - definitely quieter and I plan to run more kms between oil changes. I don't think I'd go fully synth with the Pajero though as its an older engine which probably wouldn't benefit much from it.
oils
Thanks Guy's! sounds like castrol magnetic 10w 40 is the go! I live in Albany Wa.
This is what I used for the last 2 oil changes and i have just started getting the ticking :(
going to try the engine flush fordem did some time over the next few days (its due for another oil change) and see how she goes. will probably go back to mobile1 or something else too?
Oil
Started using the Castrol Magnatec 10w-40 oil when i got the car around 140km and changed to penrite equivalent around 180km and noticed it was quieter and ran better!? Hoping it wasn't just in my head..
but I had a weird oil leak that ended up pooling near the auto sump! Thought it may have been from over filling the auto fluid last flush and change but even after getting that level correct it pooled every so often.. Sometimes bone dry sometimes a little weepy...
Anyway through this thread and others thought I'd try that valvoline but it was unavailable when i went to buy..
Ended up getting some "for older engines" GTX Oil and it's been 2500km since service and everywhere is bone dry! It would have happened at least once since then and dipstick was still above 3/4 when it usually would have needed a top up. Hopefully sorted any leak issues and the cars just hit 225km!
GTX
Think it's this one? Can check after work. I couldn't find a valvoline listing for the special blue labelled stuff? If you got a picture and where you got it from. There is an Autobarn, Repco and Supercheap all within 5 muntes drive of us and neither had a listing for the valvoline I assume you use>? I got this as I wasn't going to go the Penrite which caused leaks and went this as recommended.
I recommend to use a
I recommend to use a valvoline products. Be aware that castrol magnatec is really bad for hydraulic tappets, it doesn't clean the engine, it leaves too much sludge inside which is the reason of knocking tappets. Good products from castrol ended like at least 15 years ago. I use valvoline synpower 5w40, changed it every 10000 km with no adds, my pinin has 192 kkm on a clock.
oil
Good products from castrol ended like at least 15 years ago.
I use valvoline synpower 5w40, changed it every 10000 km with no adds, my pinin has 192 kkm on a clock.
Agreed with the Castrol oil....
I use the same oil but 10W50, same interval with a new filter every time.
Happy io
Slight tangent to this topic.
Slight tangent to this topic. Does anyone know the exact part number for the oil filter? I have looked up on partsouq.com which I usually find helpful for Japanese parts but there are several listed. My car is a '99 1.8 mpi auto 5dr and the filter I have been buying is a FebiBilstein 32100 but would like to know the correct part number for my car to see what other options/brands are available and to make sure that that 32100 is actually correct!
Cheers if anyone has an answer.....
There is no one single BEST oil.
The oil best suited to your needs will depend on the climate in which the vehicle is being used - your owner's manual should have a chart showing what grades are suitable for the temperature in which the vehicle is being used. Personal preference and usage patterns also need to be taken into consideration
Please be aware that several oil companies offer oils with additive packages specific to direct injection engines - these may or may not be available in your area, in lieu of that my preference would be an "all fleet" oil, suitable for use in both gasolene & diesel engines - direct injection engines, because the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber, as it is on a diesel, have characteristics & lubrication requirements similar to that of a diesel - soot is a problem, and the oil needs to be able to hold the soot in suspension, rather than allowing it to "settle out", and for this same reason, I also prefer to change the oil frequently rather than use a synthetic oil with extended oil change intervals.
The choice is yours ...
40 celsius is quite hot - for a 20-40 celsius range my preference would be a 10w40 - a 30 thins out a little more than I like in the heat - and I would go with a conventional mineral oil - I see little reason to pay the premium price for a synthetic if I'm going to use a standard oil change interval.
10w40 Mobil super 2000 semi
10w40 Mobil super 2000 semi syn
5w40 Mobil super 3000.
I don't use castrol anymore except on gate hinges. A can should last a while.
Always got white sludge from short journeys. They keep changing the formula to some new magic thingy. Like washing powder adverts.
Amsoil, Joe gibbs or valvoline no problems.
Valvoline are doing in some
Valvoline are doing in some countries an oil specific for direct injection and it's problems.
Synthetic oil cuts wear up to 30%
A drag car would need an engine rebuild after 3 events can do 5 on synthetic instead of mineral oil. Expensive oil is cheaper than expensive engines.
It's cheap engine insurance compared to normal car insurance.
Most manufacturers have gone to full synthetics on modern current cars from the factory.
Oil debates can be a favourite waste of time!
Syndicate
Oil
Where are you? I use a good quality 5/40 semi synth - usually castrol or if there's another good name brand on special I go for that.