Help, diff clutch solenoid not closing

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Clubbyboy
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Hi guys and gals,

I had an issue list weekend regarding the front diff clutch assembly not disengaging. I have worked out it is the solenoid not closing the vacuum off to the engagement side of the actuator. Just for giggles, I probed the plug and couldn't find any readings whether I was in 4wd or 2wd!!! I wouldn't suppose anyone would have any suggestions on how else to test the solenoids???

Would anyone have spare solenoid they would like to sell or lend out at least?

Cheers

Glenn

Claude io
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front diff clutch

Hello Glen,

Have you checked the actuator ? often, it is the problem, not always the solenoids. The actuator is close to the diff, a pin go in the diff and engage or not the front diff. It is spring loaded, and work with vacuum (from the solenoids). Look under the car to locate it. Check that it does have 2 small hose connected to it (not just one,  the one on the driver side, plastic cover, do sometime brake). Check that the pin is still in place (it's clip can fall off). If all look good, start the car, disconnect the hose on the driver side of the actuator, it should have some vacuum (it can be subtle, but if you put your finger on it you should feel it) . If it doesn't have vacuum, go up the line (mix of rubber and metal hose) and then check at the solenoids if there is vacuum.

I hope this help

Happy io

Clubbyboy
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Thanks for the quick answer

Hey Claud,

I have jumped under he beast and checkd all the vac hoses for holes or splits, all except one where ok and yes I did renew the pin holed one. I have constant vacuum on the passenger side hose and no vacuum on the drivers side that never seems to have vacuum no matter whether I am in 4 or 2 wd but must have enough because it disengages the actuator. I have pulled the line from the passengers side which has pulled the pin out from the clutch, put the vacuum line back in and it engages the clutch again.

Again, all of the lines are defect free.

Cheers

Glenn

bob_oz
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front diff

1) check the diff clutch works by manually engaging it as it is normally engaged by a spring and needs vacuum to disengage it (mitsi fail safe)

Trace hoses if it is being actuated open then go through the diagnostic flow charts in the workshop manuals

.

bob_oz
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front diff

1) check the diff clutch works by manually engaging it as it is normally engaged by a spring and needs vacuum to disengage it (mitsi fail safe)

Trace hoses if it is being actuated open then go through the diagnostic flow charts in the workshop manuals

.

Clubbyboy
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Thanks to you as we'll Bob

Thanks Bob,

I will have to reference the WSM when I get to work, left my HD there on Friday!!!

Cheers

Glenn

fordem
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The FSM has the tests...

In a nutshell each solenoid has three pipes one top, one bottom, one side - the side pipe connects to the top OR bottom depending on whether it is energized or not.

To test you'll need to remove the assembly from the vehicle and use a hand vacuum pump - before you remove check the electrical side - you can back probe the connector with the assembly mounted in the vehicle - you should see +12V on the connector, if I recall correctly, when in 2H - but - just in case I'm wrong - make sure you see it change from 12V to 0V (or vice versa) when you go from 2H to 4H.

If there is no change, check the wiring and the switch on the transfer case.

bob_oz
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main problem

the main problem I see is that the freewheel should lock when the engine is off, not be unlocked - mine locks whenever there is no vacuum. 

I belive this is a fail-safe so that if the hoses are torn you default into locked position.

Perhaps check the freewheel clutch oil level - it may be dry?

.

Claude io
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vacuum

If I understand, you have vacuum on passager side, all the time. From memory in this position you should have your diff engaged. The driveshaft from the transfer case to the diff should not turn freely by hand. If you turn the engine off, your diff should be  still locked, the driveshaft shouldn't turn by hand. Please check. Do I have this mixed up ?! I will check on my car tomorrow ! From memory, you need vacuum on the driver side to have the diff not engaged Anyway, not really an issue as the important is the swap in the vacuum side, if you do not have that happening, this is the problem to look at.

If it is the case, I would say that you may have an electrical fault (as mentioned by Fordem). Once you change from 2H to 4H or stop the engine a switch should send a electrical signal to the solenoid to swap the vacuum. From what I understood, this doesn't happen and your vacuum is staying in one position I don't know what switch it is, might be worth looking if one cable is not damaged. It should be a switch on the transfer case, but I am not 100% sure. 

Anyway check the above and let us know, may be someone know what switch it is. This will narrow the list of possible fault.

Happy io

bob_oz
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mixed up

vacuum DISENGAGES the clutch.

when you go to your car in the morning after it has been off for a while the front freewheel will be locked, when you start the engine the lights will flicker as the stick is in 2wd but the front freewheel is locked - generally within a few seconds there is sufficient vacuum to disengage the front freewheel.

if it is not locking in the first place the freewheel is stuck and may need to be worked to fix - try replacing the oil and working the lever by hand

.

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