Idea for a build
Hi,
I'd like to read your opinions about the following idea:
- use a 1.8 MPI with manual transmission as the base (to avoid any potential coked-up GDI hassle); leaning toward the 5-door body
- target wheel size is some 50 to 60mm taller than stock, most probably 235/65-17 or 245/65 R17 on 7x17 Hyundai steel rims with 41mm offset, wheel spacers and camber correction as needed, with an OME/King Springs/Koni lift kit for 30-40mm lift
- swap in a GDI's transfer case to gain the low range and center diff lock
- swap in the GDI's 4wd controller box so the warning lights etc work
- swap Pajero Gen 2 gears into the transfer case for a lower low range
- swap in diffs (or the complete axles?) from an automatic transmission version for a shorter total gearing, compensating for the taller wheels
- have the speedometer adjusted electronically (if still needed)
Can this be done, would all these parts just basically drop onto each other? Or would it get overly complicated at some stage? Would it affect the function of the multi-centre display in some way, or would that require an additional control box to get it right?
This is supposed to be a daily driver. It should be easy to drive (on the road) even for the "uninitiated" and I'm not going for any kind of flashy look.
Authorities here in Germany tend to frown upon any kind of conversion which isn't certified, type approved or homologated in some fashion, an 'are your papers in order?!' sort of attitude 
So I'd probably need to prove it is stable up to top attainable speed and generally safe to drive, even by the biggest conceivable idiot in posession of a driver's licence.
That's the reason for those 17'' rims, too - aiming at increased top-speed and handling stability with lower-section tires. In any event, even a brand-new, stock 1.8 only has a listed top speed of 155 km/h (97 mph).
Feasible?
I'd love to, but we never got
I'd love to, but we never got the 2.0 MPI, only the 2.0 GDI. And from 99 to 03/2001 the 1.8 GDI, which was replaced by the 1.8 MPI as a low-cost version in 11/2001.
The other option might be to just forget about the bad rep and get a GDI and try to keep it running properly ;-) There's got to be some people who manage?
The other day, I read this hair-raising story by a guy on the mitsu-talk forum who claimed he had cleaned his intake system without opening it by feeding in petrol through a vacuum connector, from a full(!) 5 gallon can.
'... put in a three-way cock, which I then slowly proceeded to open while the engine was running. The engine started to draw the petrol from the can and and began to slow down, which I compensated with the throttle until it was fully open.
The engine drew about a pint of petrol into the intake this way, you have to watch the temp gauge as the engine gets very hot. The petrol washed out the residue from the intake during this time, burning it right away, I did this for about 10 minutes, in that time, more than a gallon went through the intake.
After 10 mins I got a big scare, revs suddenly shot up into the limiter and a big cloud of black smoke stood behind the car, this was my cue that I needed to stop, so I closed the cock and the engine slowed down again.
After that, I went on a test drive and got the impression it ran better, the speedo went up to 160 km/h on the autobahn again and mileage went up to 37.6 mpg.
Afterwards I went to the TÜV for an exhaust check and everything seems to be working.
As I said, it's a radical method but seems to work.'
Crazy, more like it 
not crazy at all
you can buy "upper cylinder cleaner" that is basically a solvent like drycleaning fluid etc.
you spray it into the inlet with engine off for a minute then let it sit for 5mins,
start engine on fast throttle then dump the rest into the inlet via a vaccume line (brake booster line) whilst wildly revving with lots of throttle,
lots of crap and smoke flies out the exhaust, engine pulls like a train afterwards
Agreed, but that stuff is
Agreed, but that stuff is made for the purpose. I suspect it might be less volatile than petrol.
There once was this AA helper when my old Merc wouldn't start (turns out the odometer AND fuel gauge were broken) who removed the air filter then sprayed just a liiittle petrol on the throttle.
http://www.bilder-hochladen.net/files/60hx-4w-jpg.html
Cranking, there was a huge misfire and that petrol started doing what it does best. Luckily he had the extinguisher going before I got the camera out. I wouldn't have thought the guy could move that fast.
That came to mind when reading about this procedure with the full 20 l can next to the car, with a petrol hose running into the engine.
Next thing, five litres of petrol in ten minutes. Feels like more than the engine would usually consume in most circumstances, maybe a lot more, especially considering there was no load. So I'd suspect some of that might've passed by the cylinder rings, washed the oil film from the cylinders and diluted the engine oil.
4G63 won't work
sorry dude - 4G63 won't work without heavy modification.
very rare gen1 pajero's ran a 4G63 and a handfull of Gen 2's, IF and only IF you can find a gearbox from one and IF and only IF the gearbox mainshaft is compatiable you could rebuild the paj io box with a 4G63 fron end on it so you could bolt a 4G63 in...
But only the later Evo motors flow the correct direction - Evo 8 would be perfect but the driveline would definitly fail.
cheaper to get a 4G93T motor or turbo satria and mod the gear onto your 4G93 block.
http://pajerio.com/forum/engine-conversion-bolt-patterns
There might be a slight flaw
There might be a slight flaw to the original evil plan though.
From the manuals, it would appear that the diff reduction gear ratios are as follows:
Original 1.8 GDI - 4.875 in both 5 M/T and 4 A/T
2.0 GDI 5 M/T - 4.636
2.0 GDI 4 A/T - 4.900
The info on the 1.8 MPI appears to be missing from the manuals, anyone know their diff ratio?
Otherwise, it would appear you could only get a significantly shorter gearing when starting out from a 2.0 GDI?
Also, what about the rear LSD? (Europe versions.) From what I've read in the magazines, I was led to believe that only the MPI had that, as a kind of substitute for the missing low-range transfer?
So let me get this
So let me get this straight:
1.8 MPI Diff ratio for all models was 4.875 until some point in 2003, when there was some kind of minor change or facelift after which it became 4.636?
Or is the 4.636 maybe only for the right-hand drive models like tracktoy's? I should think those were probably made in Japan instead of Italy since Japan also has left-hand traffic?
Syndicate
plans
..go the 2.0L MPI instead - this build is (sounds) just like the Australian pajero io's that we have here.
you should have no problems picking up bits from european breakers for the old 1.8 MPI pinins
also i'd go the 17" OZ Racing lancer evo rims etc - nice and light and strong.
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