Pinin 2.0 GDI flashing Diff lock light on dash

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JR.
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Ok my 2003 2.0 GDI engined Pinin has a flashing "Lock" LED on the dash when in 2WD.

Ive been under the car and removed the wire on the sensor on the Transfer box and the light goes out.

So im guessing its the sensor. Can these be repaired or do i need a new one?

Is the sensor specfic for this or will another sensor do ?


 

 

 

 

 

JR.
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Forgot to mention Lock LED

Forgot to mention Lock LED only flashes in 2H and 4H   its ok when in 4HLc and 4LLc

 

 

 

Claude io
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sensor

Welcome to the forum,

These cannot be repaired, yes you will have to buy a new one. Not all the sensor are the same, some do but not all, better buy the specific one. You can buy those on amayama.com at a good price, big saving compare to the dealer, at least in Australia.

Happy io

fordem
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Hang on ...

First - before you even think of changing a "sensor" - test it - these are nothing but switches and they can be tested with an ohmmeter.

Second - the lock light flashes when the indicator logic sees conflicting signals from the two lock sensor switches - your flashing light could just as easily be the other switch sending a wrong signal, or a broken/shorted wire in the harness

Disconnect the switch wire and connect it to your test meter, connect the other test meter lead to the transfer case body, set the meter for continuity - both of the lock switches should give continuity in the lock position (4HLc & 4LLc) and not in the unlocked (2H & 4H) - what's important is you should see it change from one state to the other.

You can also remove the switch and operate it with your thumb for testing purposes.

JR.
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I will try this at the

I will try this at the weekend .Would anyone know if the Pinin has any vacuum operated solenoids or are these ion other models

fordem
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Yes they do - but ...

The Pinin uses the same solenoid operated Vacuum Switching Valves as the full size Pajeros - however and please note the difference - the solenoid controls the vacuum, not the other way around - also the VSVs have nothing to do with the center "differential" lock - they are used to engage/disengage the front axle freewheel mechanism.

JR.
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OK I disconnected brown

OK I disconnected brown connector  back to the sensor Lock Light goes out  and tested with a multimeter, it shows continuity to the chassis. in 2W&4W

disconnected the White Connector this also shows continuity to the chassis so are both sensors fauty?

 

fordem
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Is there a change?

There are two sensors switches with brown connectors, and two with white - I have no clue which ones you're looking at.

Based on the manual - neither the VCU lock detection switch nor the VCU lock operation detection switch (these are the ones with brown connectors) should have continuity to ground when the transfer case is not in a lock position - both should have continuity when a lock position is selected - the switches with white connectors are for 2H/4H sensing.

JR.
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I was informed that the

I was informed that the transfer box had 5 sensors.  And the side i needed to be looking at was the side with 2 sensors as in the picture above.

The left hand sensors above goes to a Brown connector and the Right to a White connector.

So as the lock LED is only flashing when in 2W and 4W then I need to be checking the sensors with the White connectors?

of which i know one has continuity to earth as I already tested.

 

 

 

JR.
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This is the other side of the

 .

 

 

fordem
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Perhaps a brief explanation is in order...

The lock light flashes if the lock sensor switches do not "agree" with one another - if both switches say lock is engaged, you get a yellow lock light, if both switches say lock is disengaged, you get no lock light - if either switch says lock is engaged and the other switch says it is disengaged, you get a flashing yellow light.

This has nothing to do with 2H & 4H (or as you say 2W & 4W), the logic circuit for the lock light doesn't know whether you are in 2H or 4H - it only sees the two lock switches (the ones with brown connectors).

Find the brown connectors - do you have continuity to ground at both brown connectors when you select 4HLc or 4LLc - and more important - do you lose that continuity when you deselect 4HLc or 4LLc (when 2H or 4H is selected) - if you get the correct readings at the switch connectors, repeat the tests at the indicator controller connectors (under the carpet in front of the right front seat) - one broken or pinched wire can cause the flashing lock light.

Go to the resources section of the forum and download the manuals - look at the "Pinin" sections 22 & 23 (manual & automatic transmissions) you will find the troubleshooting charts, and also diagrams showing where each of the sensors are located.

JR.
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Ok been under the car again

Ok been under the car again and checked the brown connectors both have continuity to the chassis when in 4HLc & 4LLc, when I deselect  and go back into 2H or 4 H, I still get continuity on 1 switch only , therefore I have an inconsistancy between the brown switches when in 2H or 4H therefore it has to be the switch thats constantly has continity to earth?

Claude io
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.

JR. wrote:

Ok been under the car again and checked the brown connectors both have continuity to the chassis when in 4HLc & 4LLc, when I deselect  and go back into 2H or 4 H, I still get continuity on 1 switch only , therefore I have an inconsistancy between the brown switches when in 2H or 4H therefore it has to be the switch thats constantly has continity to earth?

YES....

You can get those switches on amayama.com.au for a much better price that most local dealer.

Check here on post 7    http://pajerio.com/forum/2000io-auto-flashing-lock-indicator-no-rear-lights-indicator

Happy io

fordem
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Test the switch off the transfer case.

JR. wrote:

Ok been under the car again and checked the brown connectors both have continuity to the chassis when in 4HLc & 4LLc, when I deselect  and go back into 2H or 4 H, I still get continuity on 1 switch only , therefore I have an inconsistancy between the brown switches when in 2H or 4H therefore it has to be the switch thats constantly has continity to earth?

Remove that switch from the transfer case and test for continiuity between the switch lead and the body of the switch - operate the switch manually, depress the ball at the end with your thumb, does it maintain continuity all the time - if it does, it's defective, replace it - if the switch breaks the continuity when depressed it's good.

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