replacing engine mounts

just replaced all 4 engine mounts in my 2002 io, well worth it!

front mounts are easy, just jack under the AC or the alternator to lift that side up and remove the primary bolt on top and then the 4 chassis mount bolts.
the drivers side will wiggle out the front, the passengers WILL wiggle out the back infront of the O2 sensor with some persuasion (flip it up and drop it out vertically)

be aware the top of the mount has two pins to locate the bolt hole, and that the top primary bolt can sieze and not tighten fully, best to tighten - go for a burn and then re-tighten.

14mm for all bolts and 12mm for the O2 harness retainer bolt

rear mounts are easy as well - 14mm for all bolts, just jack the gearbox up to reduce the tension and pull out a side at a time.
BE CAREFULL TORQUING INTO THE ALLOY!! use a torque wrench and clean he bolt thread before re-inserting it!! you do not want to heli-coil the transfer box.

result:
I had been experincing a bouncing when driving along the southern M1 which is concrete paved freeway 110km/h. the wheelbase of my SWB built up a resonance and got a bounce up in the rear.
Turns out the bulk of the bouncing was the engine/gearbox assembly moving up and down  - it now rides smooth as!
It is also quieter when driving and less vibration in the cab - never realised how much vibration transfer was occuring!!

all mounts bought through Amayama.com, cost about $400 incl postage however cheapest non-genuine retail was $530 and $700+ genuine from mitsu in australia!