Hello guys I open my first topic regarding the car I would like to buy on Thursday, this week, with an electric fault (I hope). Please check the film and give me an ideea of what fault can be, or who can check this problem and receive a solution.
Regards,
Cristian
Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one's own courage
This should be fairly easy fix. The orange light means that the center diff lock and the shift lever are not in the right "mode" i.e. the diff is locked when the lever is in a setting that should have it unlocked - or the lever has selected diff lock and the diff isn't locking. This can be common to see the lights flashing when transitioning from locked to unlocked etc especially if the lock hasn't been used often - it is a good idea to lock the diff at least once a month and drive a few meters before unlocking - same with low range. this ensures the shifters are lubricated.
The center diff lock is fully mechanically actuated, so two things could be happening:
1) center diff is not unlocking and the switch is detecting it locked when it shouldn't be (this will be a straight to the dealer repair)
2) center diff detect switches are not functioning (broken or stuck)
Testing:
1) you can test to see if the center diff lock is physically operating by seeing if it is locked or not by putting it in normal 4wd (4H) and driving around in a circle on the bitumen - the center lock will cause the wheels to skip baddly. drop it into 4wd locked (4HLc) and compare. In 4H you should be able to turn around on your street without any tyre skipping - with 4HLc you should have noticable tyre scrub and skip. - Sometimes if you havn't used Lc in a while you may need to counter turn to help unlock the diff or reverse in opp turn a short distance.
Q?) Does the orange light stop flashing and go solid when the center diff is locked? (i know you can see the shifter causing it to go solid but you should be moving slightly to ensure the gears are turning to allow the lock to lock or unlock) If you can physically detect that the center dif is actually locking and unlocking as per the shift lever it's a switch problem.
2) There are a series of switches screwed into the outside of the transfer box - some detect the diff physically locking and some detect the shift lever being in a position to lock the diff. These switches have a plug on the harness about 2" from the switch which allows for easy testing. You can grab a multimeter and test the switch - just use the "diode" or resisitance beep tetser. - fairly easy lying under the car.
The manual (in the resources page on this forum - section 22d) discusses which switch (identified by the colour of the insert in the plug) should be open or closed in what position. You will find a switch that will likely not change whether it is in Lc or not - or os closed when it should be open etc.
You can unscrew the switch from the transfer box - you might loose a little bit of oil. once the switch is out you can spray WD40 or anti-siexe spray onto the ball (end of the switch that is inside the box) while pressing it with your finger etc to clear out any debris - test again and if non-responsive that is your problem - you may get it working just by clearing it.
use a bit of non-hardening sealant on the thread when you screw it back in to seal it -
center diff flashing
Hi -
This should be fairly easy fix. The orange light means that the center diff lock and the shift lever are not in the right "mode" i.e. the diff is locked when the lever is in a setting that should have it unlocked - or the lever has selected diff lock and the diff isn't locking. This can be common to see the lights flashing when transitioning from locked to unlocked etc especially if the lock hasn't been used often - it is a good idea to lock the diff at least once a month and drive a few meters before unlocking - same with low range. this ensures the shifters are lubricated.
The center diff lock is fully mechanically actuated, so two things could be happening:
1) center diff is not unlocking and the switch is detecting it locked when it shouldn't be (this will be a straight to the dealer repair)
2) center diff detect switches are not functioning (broken or stuck)
Testing:
1) you can test to see if the center diff lock is physically operating by seeing if it is locked or not by putting it in normal 4wd (4H) and driving around in a circle on the bitumen - the center lock will cause the wheels to skip baddly. drop it into 4wd locked (4HLc) and compare.
In 4H you should be able to turn around on your street without any tyre skipping - with 4HLc you should have noticable tyre scrub and skip.
- Sometimes if you havn't used Lc in a while you may need to counter turn to help unlock the diff or reverse in opp turn a short distance.
Q?) Does the orange light stop flashing and go solid when the center diff is locked? (i know you can see the shifter causing it to go solid but you should be moving slightly to ensure the gears are turning to allow the lock to lock or unlock)
If you can physically detect that the center dif is actually locking and unlocking as per the shift lever it's a switch problem.
2) There are a series of switches screwed into the outside of the transfer box - some detect the diff physically locking and some detect the shift lever being in a position to lock the diff. These switches have a plug on the harness about 2" from the switch which allows for easy testing. You can grab a multimeter and test the switch - just use the "diode" or resisitance beep tetser. - fairly easy lying under the car.
The manual (in the resources page on this forum - section 22d) discusses which switch (identified by the colour of the insert in the plug) should be open or closed in what position. You will find a switch that will likely not change whether it is in Lc or not - or os closed when it should be open etc.
You can unscrew the switch from the transfer box - you might loose a little bit of oil. once the switch is out you can spray WD40 or anti-siexe spray onto the ball (end of the switch that is inside the box) while pressing it with your finger etc to clear out any debris - test again and if non-responsive that is your problem - you may get it working just by clearing it.
use a bit of non-hardening sealant on the thread when you screw it back in to seal it -
.