singlecells ride
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Keyless installed!!! As Fordem said, you cant drive the locks themselves, but hook onto the doors key switch so the car does the unlocking.
Proved difficult at first as I was working with the drivers side door, which instead of working off a high or low pulse (which is what the kit provided) it just held to ground.
Fortunately I have the passenger side a look and it works off just a pulse. So if anyone is looking to install a kit also, just go for that side. Remove the kick panel (or whatever that small piece of plastic is beside your foot). Unplug the big ass while plug. And there is a brown and green wire both with red strips. Brown being the unlock. Hook your unlock and lock wires onto them and set the kit up so it drops them to negative. BAM done. Didnt bother with installing the wiring to have the blinkers flash, I always hated my other cars for doing that. Why advertise you just unlocked your car.
$13 dollars well spent.
It's your choice but ...
The reason I would wire the lights is it tells me that I did lock the car - my daughter's XTrail has remote lock & unlock and if I drive that, I have to push the button and look at the lights or else I won't know if I pushed the correct button.
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My girlfriends lancer has that. Not the sort of thing you can retro fit really. The door handles have sensors on them to know when you grab it. I was going to build my own system which used an rfid tag to unlock the doors and also start the car. But i decided a remote is faster and easier.
Does the lancer have pushbutton start too?
My wife drives a 2012 Lancer Ex - keyless entry, which can be operated both from a "remote fob" as in she can disarm & unlock the car from 30 metres or so, and also by touching a button on the door handle (the fob has to be within a particular "area" relative to the door on which the button has been touched - you can't stand on the right of the car with the fob and have someone else touch the button on the left side), to start the car there is a knob where the key would fit (it actually covers a key hole) and you can twist the knob and start the car, provided the key is inside the passenger compartment.
I haven't yet explored all the security features
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Well its a custom one off so too bad, haha.
I did some muddy driving the other day, and they went well, but it wasnt much as I was alone. But I wouldnt have even thought of going where I did with the geolanders. Maybe they would have been fine there, but I wouldnt have had the confidence I did with these new ones.
Other then that I havent had much time for it.
Tomorrow though I will see how they go in sand. There is a big ass dune to climb where I am going which can be a challenge at times. So I will see how the muddies go with that AND how my little 1.6L handles pulling them up the hill.
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Tyres went great on the sand, I was concerened about the size of them with my 1.6L engine, but even in some lose sand I was able to power through in high range. Should have been using low in the situation we were in but I was there and I wasnt going to stop!
First time I have been rough with the car at speed while crusing around, and had some pretty serious scrubbing at the rear againt the body of the car, some at the front too but just rubbing against the inner mud guard. So have decided to fix the rear up.
Bought some spring spacers for a certain other vehicle, and an adjustable panhard rod for another, Ill say what they are for once I have tried them out. Dont need people point out silly errors before I work them out myself!
Also got my eye on some cheap shocks for the back, but need to see what I am working with height wise first.....
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Bugger.... I guess the rubbing at the back is done while the tyres goes under the rim....it is not an easy car to fit with fat tyres:(
Can't wait to see what you found for the spring spacer. For the rear shock, KTM did use a longer one, in his built thread....we haven't heard of him for a while, I am wondering how his front diff lock are doing now....
Happy io
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Bugger.... I guess the rubbing at the back is done while the tyres goes under the rim....it is not an easy car to fit with fat tyres:(
Can't wait to see what you found for the spring spacer. For the rear shock, KTM did use a longer one, in his built thread....we haven't heard of him for a while, I am wondering how his front diff lock are doing now....
Happy io
I am hoping with another 2 inches of lift, and the rear axle centered using the panhard rod that the rubbing will be gone.
I am pretty certain I have found some aftermarket shocks to do the job for $100 bucks. I just dont want to get 600mm shocks to find out my spring/spacers only stretch out to 590!
Will know by Today/Tomorrow!!
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These bad boys turned up today - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/380157085651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_624wt_1163 -
For the front of a 80/100 series land cruiser, fitted one today for trial, PERFECT!
This should arrive tomorrow - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271005108558?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_1523wt_1163 - the measurements are perfect for the IO, might need to make new bushes for the eyes but who knows/cares.
Ordering - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370679803134?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_3374wt_1397 - Right now, should be the prefect length to get the max distance from the dobinson springs and spacers. Maybe a toouucchh too long, but ill worry about that if it is an issue. Also probably need to have new bushes too.
Now I need to go pass out as it was like a million degrees in the sun when I did that trial fit.
Peace out.
2/3rds done.
Well the spacers and panhard were here, and the shocks a couple of days away, so I decided to get the those two jobs out of the way.
Few comments about the job. With the dobinons springs in the rear, this panhard rod installed at it shortest setting centres the rear axle perfectly. With the spacers on it only had to be extended a little. So plenty of thread left on the bolts. The panhard can be adjusted while installed which was great.
I was concerned about the amount of modifications that would be needed to fit the rod, which turned out to be pretty much nill. The rubber bush on one ended had to be grinded back a bit only because it puffed out a bit too far, the sleeve was a perfect length though.
The other end had no sleeve, just the rubber bush. Once I had the old panhard rod out though, the righthand side bolt (viewed from the rear) is much thicker then the left, and fillter the bush perfectly. It was crazy has exact this thing fitted.
Emailing someone tomorrow about having some strut spacers like the ones NZIO has. Will only life the front an inch, as it looks like dropping the mounts two inches might be a bit much, so the rear should sit about an inch higher then the front. Which I dont think will look too bad.
Anyway, onto the photos. More when the struts arrive, if they fit as well as all this did I might pass out.
looking good...
Yes...Holy crap!!! Getting wild :) Nice, and great discovery of what does fit....
, it is good to have a little bit of luck....even if you pass out...lol.
As I intend to use strut spacer in the future, I have done some inquiry, and I can get them done by someone close by. At the time he quoted me around $130, in a special aluminium. If you don't find anyone (easier job, so I doubt!) , let me know.
If your new rear shock are a bit too long you could use a small cable/chain to limit the down travel and not loosing the spring. I got a feeling that you are going to have a very firm rear suspension....(I said firm, didn't say bad! )
You have to give us some measurement once it is finished , bottom of the rim to the guard, and diff clearance, front and rear droop....and let us know if this have fixed the tyres touching....
Happy io
Very nice
Looking good so far - How much lift do the dobinsons give by themselves? I'm wondering how this compares to the BA astina springs I have (around 45mm) and whether this panhard would work for me without the spacers.
A couple of questions - Are those hilux shocks the same dimensions as standard for the 2005 hilux? Very nice price - there's nothing I can find here that cheap. I do wonder if their heavier damping might give you an overly firm ride on a light little io - not much to lose to try them out though at that price.
What are the eye to eye dimensions of that panhard? Again, not sure ill be able to get the exact same product here.
And finally... You're running late struts and early springs with extenders if I recall right? If so you will need to drop the diff to be able to fit a 1" top spacer - the driveshaft angle is too extreme otherwise. I have this exact setup and dropped the diff 1". Unfortunately this means you get no additional diff clearance from fitting the spacer, but you do get the cross member up a bit higher which is where I mostly get hung up if its going to happen.
Look forward to seeing it finished with those shocks.
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Cant remember the exact lift that the rears gave, but I have the feeling its only around 35mm. The rod would be what your after.
The hilux shocks are around 50mm longer, cant remember how much less compression they have, but it was what I deemed as ok at the time of purchase. As for the eyes and sleeve sizes I wont know till they arrive.
Panhard adjusts from 890 to 990, those are from the ebay sellers page. Not sure where it is measured from, but when at its shortest length its about 10-15mm longer then the stock. I think you will find all the adjustable ones for the older commodores(solid rear axles) will be about the same. I only bought that one as it was the only one that listed the dimensions.
Hoping to get results for the front soon, not sure if ill get a decent price around here though. Might have to take up Claudes offer.
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One shock installed, ran out of time as I needed to grind a crapload of rubber away to have the bushed fit correctly.
I couldn't work out how to remove the sleeves from the old struts, I went with my fathers suggestion.
Definitely feels firmer, once I get the second one in Ill go for a proper drive and see how it feels.
Never had the chance to jack it up and see how the springs sit with the shock fully extended, also will do tomorrow.
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Fitted the left hand sides (if viewed from behind) shock today. Small issue, as these shocks are "big bore as ebay stated" they are a bit thicker then the stock. The top part is sitting hard against the part of the car which the panhard rod is mounted to. I was about to get it to compress and expand without an issue, but I suspect from the look of it the shock might not last as long as it should. I wont be bothering replacing them, but it is a good warning for others to try get thinner shocks.
So anyway, from top of wheel arch to the bottom of the rim is 760mm, and there is 100mm droop with the strut fully extended. The spring sits a little loser then I would like when its all the way up, but I dont think they will fall out or anything.
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Nice, I likes the "bush" fire...lol... a big, deep, socket to sit on the bigger metal rim, a smaller socket on the other side to sit on the sleeve, and get the all lot in a vice. Sometime it does work well...
This is an above average lift for a 2 doors....it is close to 90 mm higher than mine (no lift ....yet....) I think it will be wise to have that diff drop, from your last picture, I can see you front CV with a "ugly" angle ( a bit hard to see really!)
NICE WORK...
Happy io
Spacer
Spacer update, I have been quoted $400 dollars to have the two strut spacers and the eight diff drops bits made. Will get them done soon.
What material are you using? I am asking because I just made some strut spacer for mine (finished 30 min ago!!) Mine are in Acetal Copolymer in black.
Happy io
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25mm? I think if I was getting them again I'd go slightly less - 20mm.
Why is that?
Spacer update, I have been quoted $400 dollars to have the two strut spacers and the eight diff drops bits made. Will get them done soon.
What material are you using? I am asking because I just made some strut spacer for mine (finished 30 min ago!!) Mine are in Acetal Copolymer in black.
Happy io
Steel I beleive, I was going to make some poly ones myself but I couldnt get any at a decent price. Where did you get yours? I would rather poly.
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I buy similar rod to repair large guide for automatic gates. I think that steel is ...a bit much... but it will last, and will never fail....I will post some pictures in my thread tonight or tomorrow
Happy io
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Yes, you got the right link! Nylon rod are used to make guide for large gate, or roller for lots of things. I have heard of them being used to replace a bearing on a small wheel ...again for a gate...
My contact is Bruce, if he can help he will capitalbearings@ozemail.com.au
Happy io
Outting
So its been raining in Rockhampton and the surrounding areas big time. I am talking bridges and roads being wash away rain. So while the flooded areas drain away to reveal some fun areas to drive myself and a work friend went out to a mates property looking for some fun.
Was a blast, got some on video. Nothing too crazy but the video doesnt do some of the terrain justice, but video never does.
On a bad note, my engine started clunking bad, sounds like a big end bearing going to me, but my brother said it sounds up top, so hears hoping its simple. Although a 2.0L would be nice......
Videos :
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Some nice action, go back in a few day, the water will have softened the ground and make it even more challenging :)
Don't rev that engine while it is not fixed.....you might loose some parts on the ground !. Your set up looks good, I like the fat tyres look...
Happy io.
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Finally went and get a replacement engine for the car, 4g18 from a proton waja. Was hoping it wouldnt only be the manafolds we would need to swap over, but it looks like we will need to swap over the head also as where the water/coolent enters and exits are different. No biggie.
Donor engine before being pulled down.
Old one ready for removal.
Should be all done on next weekend.
You could just re rout the
You could just re rout the hose from to the radiator. we use to do this on our RWD 2.6 cars when using the later bigger ports and valved heads from the FWD magnas with the Magna EFI intake manifolds.
Good work!
how find me a 1.8 or 2ltr that will bolt up fo my gearbox too! :)
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I didn't know that the Proton had the lancer engine.
Is it specific to the 4g18P or a Lancer engine would have been the same problem with the head? Why not changing to the 1.8 litre? (probably more headache!!)
Replace the rear main seal, at the same time...$25...save problem later on...
Good luck with the swap...
Happy io
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The 4G18 was not used in any Lancer released in australia, it is only in the Pajero IO and Waja so its pretty hard to find one.
Any other fwd drive version of the engine would have had the same problem as the one I bought. I was going to look into getting a 1.8L or 2.0L but I wasnt sure if a 4G9 engine mounts to the gear box the same as a 4G1 engine, also this engine was local and only 400 bucks. To get a bigger one I would have had to transport one here and get a ecu/wiring harness.
Syndicate
Just a suggestion...
If your iO has power locks (which I believe they all do), don't attempt to drive the locks directly from the keyless entry system, you'll end up frying either the entry system or the ETACS (more likely the ETACS) - connect the system to the driver's side door switches where the ETACS is expecting a ground switched input and you should be safe.