Stuck in 4H

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Topher
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F***ing thing is stuck in 4H. I was ment to be going 4wding this weekend but thats not happening anymore.

So any ideas how to get it out? tried everything in reverse and forwards.

P.S car is still driveable.

01 ZR LWB, 2 sets of kumho KL71s on rims, custom one off belly plate, lukey sports exhaust and a right foot to suit!

simmo777
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hmmmm

I read somewhere on this forum that there may be a sensor/fuse/plug/some weird mystical device on the transfer case that has a tendency to blow which results in being stuck in 4H??

Really can't offer any help other then that this issue IS on the forumn somwhere else and I can't remember whether it has been resolved or not but something on the transfer case.

 

Good luck Chris :/

2002 5dr Pajero IO QA 2.0L Auto - Lifted, Locked!! 1.925 Low Range - Muddies (205/80/16) - Redback Extractors to 200cell cat to dump at diff Exhaust 

fordem
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Nope

Being stuck in 4H is purely a mechanical issue, and will either be the shifter or internal to the transfer case - which, on an iO is completely mechanical - there are five switches, one of which controls the front axle disconnect, the other four, plus one more on the front axle, control the dash display, which is nothing other than eye candy.

AidanGDI
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Unless someone can correct me

Unless someone can correct me moving between 4H and 2H should just move the VCU together driving the front prop shaft and trigger the switch for the vacumn solenoids for the front hubs.

I would drain the transfer case and check for swarf. Refill and try massaging the lever back and forth.

fordem
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Consider yourself corrected ...

A simplified explanation would go like this - the VCU is a sealed unit splined to the rear output shaft & driven by it - the 2WD/4WD synchroniser rotates on a bearing over the rear output shaft and is immediately adjacent to the VCU and coupled to it - the synchroniser has an input section driven by the VCU, and an output section which drives the front output shaft via a chain, linking the two sections is the 2WD/4WD clutch.

In 2WD (2H) the rear output shaft is turning, and with it the VCU and the input section of the synchroniser, the output section of the synchroniser would not be moving - when 4WD (4H, 4HLc or 4LLc) is selected the syncroniser sleeve slides over the 2WD/4WD clutch coupling it to the drive sprocket, which then drives the front output shaft via the chain.

Before draining the case I would suggest removing the shift lever, and checking the selector rails for debris that may be fouling them - there is a bush on the lower end of the lever that disintegrates and may fall into the rails, preventing them from sliding.

Start by removing the console and shift boot, look down through the opening you'll see a plate held by three bolts, remove those and pull the lever up and out - to the right of the opening is a large hex plug - this will need to be removed before you can reinstall the shift lever - it holds a spring that "pre-loads" the shift lever to the right, the 2H/4H plane.

Topher
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Awesome

Great info guys, ill check the shifter rails and if thats all clear ill do the fluid change. it is due for a service...clocked 210,000 the other day

01 ZR LWB, 2 sets of kumho KL71s on rims, custom one off belly plate, lukey sports exhaust and a right foot to suit!

AidanGDI
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I stand

I stand corrected.

 

Brilliant reply and help as always Fordem.

vk4kij
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Yesterday, while playing 4wd,

Yesterday, while playing 4wd, my IO jammed itself in Hi 4x4 as well, good timing, it was after all the hard stuff and only had to go down one steep hill (well a bit scary because I could not select low range).

I have pulled the shift out, and I can select the transfer ranges by using my screw driver.

So my problem is in the shift, I found lots of brown pieces, thought they were dirt at first but they are plastic, so I guess there is something missing now.

See what Mr. Mitsubishi says about it in the morning.

 

Ian.

fordem
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That's the bush I mentioned earlier.

Mr Mitsubishi will try to sell you the entire transfer case shift lever assembly - when all you need is a little piece of plastic - I drew the line at that and fabricated a bush from a polyurethane shock eye bushing - it looks like this.

Now - that image comes from an ebay auction - you can try the ebay bush see if it works - or - do like me - make your own.

vk4kij
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Yep, that sure is it.

Luckerly Mr. Mitsubishi also knew which Sigma had the same part and sold me that for $21.

Making my own probably would be beyond my skills :(

 

Ian.

fordem
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You don't by any chance have a part number?

I believe that bush is a fairly common failure, and, as I say, when I tried to source it, I discovered it wasn't sold separately (at least, not for the iO), so my guess is other forum members are going to need the number.

vk4kij
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Part number

Mitsubishi Genuine Part.

Description:  Ball, M/T GE

Part number:  MD701605

 

I will make sure it is the correct one tonight as I will re-assembling it, but not sticking it in the vehicle yet.

 

Ian.

fordem
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If it fits

Once it fits in the shifter cap, it'll probably work

Topher
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Life savers, ill check it out

Life savers, ill check it out this weekend coming!

01 ZR LWB, 2 sets of kumho KL71s on rims, custom one off belly plate, lukey sports exhaust and a right foot to suit!

vk4kij
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Would I need to lubricate it

Would I need to lubricate it when I re-assemble it?

fordem
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That might depend on what it's made of ...

I'd say a little lube is a good idea, but you need a lubricant compatible with the material - I used a polyurethane bush and I honestly don't remember if I did lube it, but poly bushes can be lubed with molybdenum grease (CV joint grease), and I usually have synthetic based rubber grease on hand as well, so if I did, it would have been one of those.

The K Fam
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Hey Guy’s, Does anyone have

Hey Guy’s,
Does anyone have any pics of this part fitted?

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