Super select plumbing issue
Hi, sorry for another post, couldn't see how to attach an image to my existing post (on my phone at 3am so didn't have a proper look)
Here is the solenoid 'manifold' and plumbing i have, the long end of pipe goes to the engine manifold vacuum and that 1 way valve works well. It's the other pipes and what way around the actual mount and what sides and what way up the solenoid a themselves go. I suspect the fixed pipe on the mount sits closest to the firewall and the solenoid a sit with the electrical connections facing to the sky.
Please fill in the blanks. Then I have read to go through the transfer case sensors (although I have looked tonight and they look as though some are new so should I just (as fordem PMd me) power the solenoids and check they are not the issue first (once I've got them plumbed right)
Thanks again, I'm sure it will be a simple fix once found.
So after a bit of mucking
So after a bit of mucking around on a dirt road i found i had no 4wd still, turns out all it was was the Caps on the solenoid valves (one on the top and one on the bottom of the other) were leaking. A bit of blue loktite and also a spray of WD40 into the solenoid itself and left over night, boom, problem solved, working a treat now. I did however find that the switch closest to the front of the car on the transfer case had a loose/damaged wire, i then broke it while having a closer look and a poke around but i have enough exposed to solder it back on and get a better connection anyhow. I am not sure but i have an intermittant fault with the diff lock amber light when in 2wd (clearly a switch fault) so hoping/assuming this may be it?? If not ill do some more searching. But so far so good, bought the car with a faulty super select system that a mechanic had for 2 days and still couldnt fix, all sorted now and hasnt cost me a cent, just my time. Lucky i like playing with cars eh.
And also FYI on the 'front wheel lights flashing in 2wd' check in the vacuum actuator rod at the front freewheel. FORDEM helped me here and pointed this out, turns out the tiny pin joining the actuator had dropped out therefore, although the vacuum may have been working, it was in fact disconected from the freewheel clutch and not creating an open/closed system. Thankfully the switch must be in the actual freewheel side and allows the system to know if it is working or not. Again a bit of blue loktite (apparently i am missing a small stainless cover) and popped the pin back in (the pin was in the cover boot still as it has no where else to go luckily) and again, working fine. Thanks FORDEM also thanks Claude for many explanations on how to re-plumb the system, got it sorted due to your help.
Cheers
You're welcome
And by the way - the caps are supposed to leak - they are breathers - it was most likely the squirt of WD-40 dislodging rust particles in the VSV - what I dscovered is that moisture can get in to one side of the actuator diaphram chamber and cause it to rust, and the engine vacuum pulls tiny rust particles all the way through the system - I had rust in the one way valve that connects to the intake manifold.
Take a look at the drawing I emailed you - when the VSV is de-energized it connects the actuator stem to one of the two end connector stems - and when energized it connects the actuator to the other end - so with power one side of the actuator is connected to engine vacuum, and the other vented to atmospheric pressure, and when you shift the lever, the switch on the t/case cuts the power and vacuum/atmospheric pressure are applied to the other side of the actuator causng it to change position.
Freewheel actuator? Where is this
Hi
I would like to know where is this freewheel actuator so I can check mine as well please. My 2 green front wheel lights are also flashing. I'm now busy with the 2 vacuum solinoids to see if they work correctly, but want to make sure I cover all items connected to this problem.
My vacuum solinoids also seem to be faulty; so I'm also gonna try the Q20 lubricant spray to see if i can get it to work. Do you spray it into all holes into the solinoid?
Pictures maybe?
Thanks
Ettienne in South Africa
No pictures...
Slide under the front, remove any bash guards and look for a rubber accordion boot about 4" long to the left of the differential - that boot covers the linkage between the actuator and the freewheel mechanism - the actuator is on the right (diff side) of the boot.
The VSVs are "two way" vacuum switches - the center tube links to the other two depending on whether the solenoid is energized or not - spray through the center tube with the solenoid both energized & de-energized, you'll see which of the other two tubes the spray comes out of, spray through in the reverse direction also.
The reason for the flashing lights is to draw your attention to the fact that the freewheel mechanism is either engaged when it should not be, or not engaged when it should be - the freewheel mechanism is controlled by one switch on the transfer case and the two VSVs the sensing is done by two switches, one on the transfer case, and the other on the freewheel unit - it is possible that the freewheel is working exactly as it should and the sensing mechanism has failed because of a defective switch or broken wire, or, just as easily, the sensing mechanism may be working and the freewheel system has malfunctioned - so the first step is to determine which of the two conditions you are dealing with.
You will need to be under the vehicle with the engine running, so get someone you can trust to assist you - chock the wheels - and with the engine idling in neutral (or park if it's an automatic), have your assistant shift between 2H & 4H whilst you watch the actuator - you'll see the accordion boot move as it is shifted between 2H & 4H - if there is no movement, pull one end of the boot free so you can see the actual linkage - if the linkage does not move check the voltage on the solenoids - you should see 0 or +12V as you shift 2H~4H and back.
Syndicate
Connection
Ok, on your picture, on one side, you have a single hose on one side, this one goes to the manifold.
The electrical connection of the solenoid have to go up.
The metal tube is to be bolted with the bracket on the left side (closer to the driver). This is an extension to the metal tube below (the tube on the left, there is 4 of them, close to each other, again closer to the driver)
On the other side you have 3 hoses,
The longer one, middle one, goes to the connection under the right solenoid, vertical connection (away from the driver).
The shorter one, in line with the single side hose, connect with your small metal tube, then to the left metal tube (see above)
The last hose, perpendicular to the others, connect on the top left solenoid (closer to the driver).
No point taking a picture, it looks like a bowl of spaghetti :)
Hope this help.
Happy io
My io is now SOLD Thankshttp://pajerio.com/forum/claudes-io-2002-zr-built-thread-onlyhappy-io