Valve-Lifter Ticking Sound
Currently dealing with the infamous ticking sound caused by the engine valve lifters. Will go and look for the right replacement lifters when I find time. Has anybody experienced the same ticking? Research online said that re-designed lifters are now available with bigger holes. I just hope I can find the right ones here and are not that expensive=(. Some say in some cases oil change would eliminate the ticking..but we just had our oil change and the ticking is still there. Do you have any thoughts on the matter? Our ticking comes when I switch on the ignition right before I start the engine..but then I don't seem to notice it once the engine starts running..Does anybody know if it's harmful to the engine if I keep driving the IO while not having replaced the lifters yet? Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
lifters help but often aren't the fix
Currently dealing with the infamous ticking sound caused by the engine valve lifters. Will go and look for the right replacement lifters when I find time. Has anybody experienced the same ticking? Research online said that re-designed lifters are now available with bigger holes. I just hope I can find the right ones here and are not that expensive=(. Some say in some cases oil change would eliminate the ticking..but we just had our oil change and the ticking is still there. Do you have any thoughts on the matter? Our ticking comes when I switch on the ignition right before I start the engine..but then I don't seem to notice it once the engine starts running..Does anybody know if it's harmful to the engine if I keep driving the IO while not having replaced the lifters yet? Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
lots of mitubishi's are plagued with this issue. Try running a fully synthetic oil next change, should give you 6 month or so without ticking.
I've watched mates chase this around before on the mitsi L4 and V6's, new lifters doesn't always fix it as it usually is caused by oil sludging up the feed galleries and ports (too long between oil and filter changes, high humidity, hard engine life, low quality oil, bad luck) The synthetic oil seems to help, and definitly new lifters are part of the solution but short on a full oil gallery flush next time the pump comes off the block there is no hard and fast cure.
good luck! let us know you go :)
Thanks EBS and Bob for the
Thanks EBS and Bob for the wisdom and tips!
Our IO is Year 98-99 ish, the ticking is actually more common than I thought among Mitsus. (EBS) We are actually pretty sure that the ticking is most probably coming from the lifters, the dealer had actually told us in advance of the lifter issue and had promised to reimburse us of any expenses which may be incurred as result of having them replaced or whatever repairs which may be needed. No we do not drive through too much water, although it's typhoon season right now here in the Phils., the IO only gets driven several times a week at nighttime (to go out for errands, etc.) as I opt to take the commute to work daily. Thanks though for the tip re: monitoring my electrics, etc..will keep watch.
(BOB_OZ) My Dad had actually referred to his mechanic stating that the lifters might not even need replacement, a possibility could be that they might be clogged and may only need cleaning or such (maybe soaking them up in solution for 2 days or so to declog them). The mechanic says that lifters are not usually damaged, but may need cleaning. I relayed to them your advise, I remember when I had the oil changed and sparkplugs replaced during the week we took the unit home, my mechanic had said that the previous owner may have not changed the oil on time regularly since the used oil is already "dirty" and thick...will be bringing the IO to the shop maybe in a day or two, hope they figure it all out and eliminate the ticking..I agree that a quick replacement of lifter might not do the trick fully, I hope they flush, etc. to make sure everything works fine, will be expecting the IO to be down a few days once it goes in, looking to have guage lights replaced as well, some spots are poorly lit or going loose although they'd still do, i'd like to have them replaced with white LEDs...been trying to check out for custom (indiglo/reversed) guages here but could not find any...
*edit from first post- the ticking is actually also evident during driving, I realized yesterday, I could hear the ticking in succession at certain RPMs, I have read somewhere online similar cases even with 4g93Ts/Evos, although the problem seems more annoying than something grave to worry about, the engine would definitely be more quiet once the ticking is eliminated...I was not bothered at first with the IO as I was used to the roaring engine of the 4JG on the Isuzu which was mad loud compared to the IO=)
thanks for your quick input Sirs
Think about this for a minute
Think about this for a minute ...
Our ticking comes when I switch on the ignition right before I start the engine
If the engine hasn't been started, then the noise can't be coming from the valve lifters, because they aren't moving.
What you're hearing is most likely the ABS running it's self tests, and I believe you'll find that nugget of information in the owner's manual.
I've heard a lot of people
I've heard a lot of people driving mitsu (mostly diesel motors) complain about valve ticker. Mostly the faults is due to the valve stem seals failing. Dealers easily points out that it is valve ticker and spin a long story about valves and blablabla and you end up with a massive bill for a head rebuild.
Replace the valve stem seals / guides, check for leaks. This is easily done by turning the head upside down and pouring some petrol on it to see if all the valves seat properly. Reseat the valves with some grinding paste (if necessary), set the valve clearance as per manual. Flush the motor and use a synthetic/semi-synthetic oil. This should help.
I agree with the guys, cant be valve ticker if the motor is not turning. The ticking sound is coming from some where else. Mine and Fielies's does the same, after switching the ignition on, a ticking sound for about 2-3 seconds. Dont know what it is but definitely not mechanical, so dont worry. Valve ticker will be noticable while the car is idling.
Jaco
Valve seals don't make noise
You're recommending replacement of the valve guides & seals - which by the way are not the same thing - the valve guide is a metal tube that holds the valve in a particular position and restricts it's motion to an up/down. - the valve seal is a rubber seal that prevents oil from leaking through the space between the valve stem and the inside of the guide tube.
After you've replaced the valve guides you'll need to cut the valve seats to make sure they are concentric with the newly installed guides - so after you've disassembled the head, pressed the guides out, pressed new guides in, done a three angle valve job on the seats - wouldn't that be considered a head rebuild?
Also - worn valve seals don't make any noise.
Help me out here - what exactly is a starter PUMP solenoid??
As the subject says - what exactly is a starter PUMP solenoid? What does it do? I'm familiar with solenoids in general, as well as starter motors and starter motor solenoids, but I've never heard of a starter PUMP solenoid before and I'm pretty sure my Pajero iO doesn't have one, and neither do any of my other cars (I have two Mitsubishis & two Suzukis) so it's not "normal" at all.
Also - if the original poster gets a ticking noise when he switches on the ignition and before he starts the engine, then I'm pretty certain the sound is not anything starter related - because he still needs to turn the key to the start position to engage the starter.
Fordem, I think you missed
Fordem, I think you missed me, the dealers will charge you >R10 000 for a head rebuild when its no more than a days work and some elbow grease. It might not be the guides thats worn out. I've heard the term "sticky" valve stem seals being thrown around. This is probably why, good quality synthetic / semi synthetic oil will help reduce or clear up the noise.
As for starter PUMP solenoid, I'm pretty sure he meant starter solenoid.
There is no STARTER PUMP
There is no starter pump - there is a low pressure pump (in the tank) and a high pressure pump (on the side of the engine block) - as far as I know they are both rotary pumps (ie - have a motor which spins) rather than the older diaphragm pumps (reciprocating action - low pressure, carburettor only) neither one makes a ticking sound.
Starter solenoids also do not "tick" and for reasons previously mentioned, any ticking noise prior to turning the key to the start position is unlikely to be starter related.
My iO makes what I describe as a "thudding" noise - definitely not a clicking or ticking, this is a heavier sound and repeats three or four times - when the ignition is switched on and before the engine is started - as far as I am aware, this is the ABS system running self tests, once the engine is started I get some lifter noise for perhaps 30 seconds or so - lifter noise has a distinctive rhythmic pattern to it, and the tempo can be varied by varying the engine rpm - the cam shafts and therefore the lifters run at half engine speed.
In my case the lifter noise at startup is caused by "bleed down" - or the lifters loosing oil possibly because the oil needs to be changed (it does) or perhaps the use of the wrong filter - some filters have an anti-drain back valve, other's don't. Another cause of startup lifter noise is the use of too heavy an oil for the climate in which the vehicle is being operated - these are fairly common problems on all vehicles with hydraulic lifters.
Whilst I'm on the topic of oil filters - why on earth did Mitsubishi put an access hole in the cover plate so you can reach the drain plug, and not put one for you to change the filter? Who changes the oil without changing the filter?
If you have continuous lifter noise the problem is most likely sludged oil galleys due to infrequent oil changes, and possibly sludged or stuck lifters - there are numerous solvents that promise to correct this problem but I'm not sure I would want to use them as anything other than the final step before tearing the engine apart. I would assume that the lifters can be disassembled and cleaned, lifters from other makes can, but unless you're doing the workk yourself & willing to take the head apart twice I would suggest you just fit new ones the first time around.
Clicking noise is after
Clicking noise is after turning the key and before the second turn and before the engine cranks. Almost all owners of IOs mentions this - It has nothing to do with valve lifters. Also Valve lifter noise increases with the RPM. Most OHC engines make an initial clatter becuause it takes a whle to get the oil pressure up to the the cams and lifters at the top of the engine.
I use the term starter pump- meaning the low pressure pump that comes on after turning the key that pumps the petrol to the HIGH Pressure pump. This motor comes on before the HIgh Pressure pump.
MY garage mechanic told me the clicking noise is from the electronics going to the starter motor.
Thread revival !!
If any one is curious - open the hood of your car - put one hand on the throttle body and have some one else switch the ignition on - on my car, the noise comes from the throttle body. I have the 4G93 GDI engine which uses "drive by wire" so I'm guessing the noise is the throttle servos establishing travel limits.
What "electronics going to the starter motor"?
MY garage mechanic told me the clicking noise is from the electronics going to the starter motor.
The iO is no different to any other automobile that I have owned (or driven) and there is NO electronics WHATSOEVER "going to the starter motor" - and so that it is clear - I'm not assuming, I have checked it.
The starter circuit is 100% conventional - the power side is wired directly to the battery's positive terminal, and the control side runs from the igntion switch, through the automatic transmission safety switch to the starter solenoid.
Perhaps you need a new garage or a new mechanic.
Lifter noise revisit.
Some of you may know that I've been using Pyroil engine flush directly before changing my oil in an attempt to get rid of "lifter clatter" but the results have not been particularly inspiring. The clatter is intermittent, but usually present for a second or so at start up and may or may not be audible during normal operation - which may just be a matter of whether or not you're alongside a surface that reflects the noise.
I've been quite busy over the past couple of weeks, and instead of me dropping my daughter to work, she's been driving herself in the iO, and most mornings I would open the gate for her when she leaves. Yesterday morning I noticed, when she started the car, no lifter clatter, and the same thing again this morning, I stated the engine myself, before she came out of the house, no lifter noise whatsoever, and that engine just purred. I have no idea when it stopped, but for at least two days now, that engine is very quiet.
What have I been doing differently? I've been using a different oil to top up the oil consumed - Valvoline 15w40 "all fleet" CF/SM, rather than the Valvoline 10w40 SN that I was using before - the CF/SM rating indicates it's suitable for use in both diesel & gasolene engines.
Diesel oils usually have a higher level of detergent additives and there is a possibility that those additives have done the job that I had hoped a flush would do.
I'll be keeping a closer "ear" on this engine and at the next oil change (which will either be late this month, or early next month) it will get a complete fill with the all fleet for the first time.
I will update with my observations.
Oil ...
I have experience similar result on other car. Not all oil are the same, even within the same classification, it shouldn't but it is. Changing brand can be enough to stop lifter/or other noise or even oil consumption. As you said the additive are different, one big example, at least in Australia, was between Valvoline and Castrol oil, same classification, lots of mechanics would bet their right hand that Valvoline was a lot thinner and get the engine noisy and have a superior oil consumption.
This doesn't mean that changing brand of oil will always fix the problem, but it is an easy start!!
Oil ain't oil...
Happy io
Thanks for all the inputs
Thanks for all the inputs Sirs! I have not been able to check on the site regularly but I'm real glad this topic has caught attention as I know any info on this matter will be helpful.
Unfortunately, after all this time, the ticking still ensues. Let me clarify that the ticking also comes while the engine is idling, running, etc...the rhythm varies per RPM as well. Me and my Dad have tried adding an additive hoping that it "cleans" any clogs on the lifters but nothing has changed.
As I have previously mentioned, my mechanic has suggested to manually open and clean the lifters, like soaking it in a solution etc..but after telling my dad bout it , he hesitated having the engine opened as he claims bigger "problems" might be caused since the engine seems like it has not been opened yet, adding the fear of the mechanic possibly damaging any of the lifters then well have a bigger problem of looking for replacements.
The ticking does not seem to cause any serious problem aside from the light tapping noise when I drive. In the coming days, my Dad and I will be consulting a new mechanic who might be able to find a "less invasive" way of minimizing or eliminating the noise without opening the engine, like some of you Sirs have suggested, that a flush might do it, change of oil (brand and type), etc..
I would also like to note that the tapping noise seems "softer" when I leave the engine idling for a few minutes (like a warm up) before driving off, (its still there but but with lesser noise), as compared to driving off soon as I start the engine. Does this mean anything? of does the "warming up" actually make a difference?
Another Issue:
Our IO has faithfully served us for more than a year now, I'm proud to say that it has not given us any major problems, BUT, an issue has popped up around 2 months ago.
My engine has slowly started to consume engine oil. I have not really consulted a mechanic seriously about this except for 1.
The mechanic stated that the valve seals might need to be changed. Since the oil consumption still seems tolerable for now (1 liter/month or 2mos. depending on drives), Ive decided to put off that recommendation and possibly seek other opinions first, as a valve seal change will definitely be abit expensive. The engine seems to be running fine still, no smoke emissions, etc. I just need to monitor the oil consumption to make sure I keep adding some to from time to time..Im planning to have it checked soon. I just want to make sure it gets diagnosed correctly first. Any inputs from you Sirs will be appreciated!
Syndicate
If it is right before the car
If it is right before the car starts it might be your starter motor, or it might be a good idea to check your spark plugs, all 4 of them. Sounds like a similar situation with my first car which it was the starter motor stuffing up, I would also check your battery and terminals and make sure they are working well and are free of corrosion. Do you drive through alot of water? If so spray all of your electrics with wd-40 or a similar spray, because it could be something electrical? ive never heard of any valve lifter ticking? A mechanic could definately tell you what it is or if you know that valve ticking is the cause then i would definately get some professional advice on it. What type of iO do u have?