Wheel bearing replacement
pininokio wrote: the thing is
the thing is that the bearings usually has problems cause of the mud and the water.most of the times that s is why we change it.we usually use koyo and it costs around 40 euros a pair .i ususally change it onve a year as a precaution .this pair i have now i have it aroun a year and a half and its brand new
We have to get a part number on the bearings thou, we have alot of bearing suppliers locally including KOYO but they all need part number, without that I wil have to strip my hub and take the bearing to them.
I did the front bearing some
I did the front bearing some time ago. Got the bearing from eBay. It was a koyo brand and also came supplied the seals you will need. Not that difficult to do, you just need a gear puller, ball joint remover, torque wrench and preferably a shop press. I did it without the press but can remember thinking how quick and easy it would be if I had one.
I think I purchased it from
I think I purchased it from this seller, see link below. The part number is in the listing, I thought that might help.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBISHI-PAJERO-iO-QA-99to05-00-Front-Wheel...
No chance that yo took
No chance that yo took pictures when you did it? I havnt done it and when you taking about bearing pullers and removing the ball joint gets me a bit 
Did you manage to get a part number? Pini gave me this number is it teh same? DAC4074W-6CS61???? This is what the local bearing agent asked me
"Is it possible to give me the dimension on the bearing? From the part number I can tell you the inner diameter is 40mm and the Outer diameter is 74mm, I just need to know the thickness/width of the bearing?" If he had the part number wont he know what the thickness would be????
http://i17.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/07/e1/4306_12.JPG In the picture you gave does all the seals comes with????
Ok a couple of things
Ok a couple of things guys,
1. If your not confident with doing this yourself it might be better to take it to a professional. If its not done right you could be up for premature failure or worse. Best to find someone that specialises in drivelines and the like. It really shouldn't cost that much, its a quick and straight forward job so they shouldn't charge that much.
2. I know $88.00 might sound steep, but I had the original factory kits installed by my local mechanic. The bearings alone were around $150 each trade price from Mitsubishi and they are identical to the ones I purchased on ebay. Mine failed only a couple of years later due to the mechanic overtightening the nut that holds it all together. But i can't prove that :( They must have used a rattle gun when they put it together. I think it took me well over 400Nm of constant torque to remove it.
If you're trying to save money you're local bearing shop should be able to source it for you but I'm always happy to support businesses that make an effort to make parts available to our io's. Wish we had more aftermarket stuff for our little 4wds.
Good luck with the job 
searched for this topic as i
searched for this topic as i think i may have a wheel bearing issue. i can only hear it in the RHS at the moment, but whati want to know is what should a worn bearing sounds like. and how can i test it?
what i am currently experiencing sounds like a low pitched droning noise, and gets a tiny bit heavier under brakes. im not sure what to do or what the real problem is. i just think it may be a wheel bearing after the little research i have done. although i have never experienced one. im still only 21 so yeah not overly experienced in much... if i were to get a service or take it to a mechaninc do you think they could pick up what the problem might be if i asked them about it...
wheel bearing
Yes, if you take your car for service, and tell them about your concern, most mechanics should pick it up ! One big advice when taking your car, mention the problem, the noise, not the bearing. This way they will check for a noise, and not just the bearing! let them do the diagnostic....it could be another problem....
The first 2 step to check a bearing are easy done, jack the car, spin the wheel by hand, slowly then a bit faster, once you have spin both, if one is faulty you will feel, hear it, similar to a slight "grinding", any noise will have the bearing replaced. Next check for any free play, grab the tyre with your hand at 12 and 6 push one hand out, the other in, and give it a few shake...in...out....(you don't have to dislodge your shoulder! nice and easy) some free play, 1 mm or so can be acceptable but none is better. Too much free play and it will have to be adjusted, but may need replacing. Excessive free play and I would recommend to replace it.
Too much free play would be around 3 mm, excessive would be 5mm and over and could be dangerous. These are estimate, just the size of the tyres changes the dimension of the free play, but it does give you an very rough idea, and NOT a rule!
This 2 tests are not 100% accurate, as your bearing could be slightly worn, make a bit of noise on the road and pass these test. But they are easy to do and they should "show" a potentially dangerous bearing.
Usually a worn bearing will get louder the faster you drive. Most of the time, a noisy rear wheel bearing will be a constant noise, while a front one may change as you change direction (going left and right...wandering on a straight road...safely!) Again not always true....
If you are not sure...it shouldn't cost you much to get them check....
21...now I am jealous!!!
Happy io
A low pitched drone
A low pitched drone or rumble is one of the sounds that a defective bearing can make (there are several) - but a tire can also drone, and even the road surface can cause a drone - so don't immediately decide it's a worn bearing. As Claude has suggested try rocking the vehicle gently side to side whilst driving on a quiet road - the weight transfer will usually cause the bearing to change either the tone or the volume of the drone.
With one of my vehicles I've had to put the vehicle on stands and lie under it and rotate the wheel by hand to see which ear I could hear the noise through, to determine if the bearing was the wheel bearing or a differential bearing (I knew it was a bearing noise, just not which bearing).
thanks for the replies guys.
thanks for the replies guys. ive done the jack up test. and whilst i have no free play in my suspected wheel, there is a slight droning/grinding sound. so i might get it checked out by a mechaninc. as of now all mods have stopped and my priorities have been moved to safety and repairs... at the same time im saving for a holiday in january with the missus. why are her priorities always different to mine?!?!
io holiday
i trip in the iO would be nice but it would require a drive from melbourne to brisbane. yes it is do-able but she wants to do theme parks and stuff where if i were to take the iO i would want to go offroading and travel further north... and we will probably most likely hire a toyota yaris up there anyway as she already drives one and would be cheap... also with the cost invovled in preppeing and servicng my iO and not to mention fuel costs, it will be much cheaper doing it thhis way.
I'm planning a week long trip with some of my fire brigade mates for august/september next year anyway, ao i want to setup my iO for that...
on that list is firstly servicng and repairs, then bash plate/suspension (which ever presents itself first), and then an exhaust upgrade. or should i say overhaul...
Some pictures
Hi guys,
Thought it would be nice to add some pictures on front wheel bearing change.
Here they are:
Taking off brake disc
Old bearing and hub assembly
Hub hammered out
Taking off inner outer race
Old bearing pressed out
New bearing pressed in
It was unbelievably hard to take off CV axle nut and press in/out bearings even with this (next time I’ll buy impact wrench :) )
P.S.
Got new pair of bearings with oil seals for 99$ from Cairns
Just thought I'd mention it ...
Taking off brake disc
For those who need to remove the brake disc for whatever reason - a hub puller is not required - two bolts with thread to match the tapped holes into which this puller has been screwed, can be used to push against the hub flange - tighten them down evenly and they will push the disk off.
The same method can be used to remove the rear drums, if your car has those.
Syndicate
This is something on my list
This is something on my list of things to look into also, Id love to know what you find out!
Pininokio said they get Koyo for $40 euro a pair, http://www.pajerio.com/forum/what-wheels-suit-pajero-io-lift-less-offset... but I have not seen them for that price in Australia yet.
Yippy i-O
31s 245/75/16 BFGs(33s next) 5" lift Coilovers with 290mm stroke. - 5.29 diffs with Kaiser Lockers.