1999 Pajero IO central door lock (Aftermarket system)

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TFTG
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Hi everyone, 

I'm new to this forum and I'm in need of some guidance here. 

I'm currently trying to fit a prestige Prestige apsrs3z remote start and keyless entry into my Pajero. I've gotten the remote start to work fine but I cannot locate the wires for keyless entry. I've been told the wires are on the ETACS ecu, however I'm not sure exactly what wires on the ETACS ECU I'm supposed to use. So far I've tried using a circuit tester to ground on pins 55 and 56 on the C-84 connector but maybe I'm doing it wrong?? I would just llike some guidance on how to get this working with this aftermarket system. Thanks!

fordem
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Adding an aftermarket system can be challenging...

I successfully fitted a Prestige alarm system with remote entry (I think it was an APS25), but, to make it work I had to remove the ETACS unit and make minor modifications to it.

First - does the vehicle have central locking?  I believe they all do, but, let's confirm it anyway.

Second - does the central locking only work from the driver's side door lock cylinder?  This is critical - on some vehicles the central locking works from any door with a lock cylinder (both front doors & tail gate), on other vehicles, it is driver's door only - mine was driver's door only - the circuitry required for the other doors is present in the ETACS module, but there is no connection to the outside world, so the only way to make it work is to add two wires to the ETACS and then connect those to the aftermarket system.

Unfortunately I have no pictures, but, the modifications are very simple - the physical connector pins are missing - you just need to solder two wires to the pads and route them out of the module - I will confirm which connector and which pins tomorrow.

TFTG
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Totally up for it!

You have no idea how happy this made me that someone accomplished it.

1) Yes, my Pajero has central locking

2) It only works from the driver's side like yours 

 

Thank you so much for providing me with your info! I can take pictures throughout this process and make a post about it to help others if you'd like. 

fordem
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Is your car LHD or RHD?

I don't think it makes any difference to the ETACS modifications, but, it could make a significant difference to the time taken - on a RHD car the ETACS is mounted upside down under the dash, and reaching the connectors to disconnect them is quite difficult - I recommend removing the driver's seat entirely.  I don't have the wiring diagrams on this computer, so, when I get to work (in about an hour or so), I'll take a look and get back to you.

TFTG
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My car is RHD however, I have

My car is RHD however, I have taken bout the ETACS before. It tooke me some time but I've successfully done it before 

fordem
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Connector C84, pins 53 & 54

Connector C84, pins 53 & 54 are what you need, along with a ground - a momentary ground on 53 will lock, on 54 will unlock.  As I mentioned, the physical pins may not be present (they were not on my ETACS), but I soldered two thin wires to the contact pads where the pins would have been and routed those wires out of the ETACS and then connected those wires to the Prestige door lock controls.

Pins 55 & 56 are the driver's door input - BUT - the lock control on that door is not a momentary ground type, it holds the terminal grounded as a part of the mechanism that prevents the door from being locked when the key is in the ignition and the engine off - I spent literally days trying different approaches to connect the lock controls on these pins before removing the ETACS and adding the two wires.

TFTG
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Sounds easy enough

Thanks so much! I'll be sure to try this later this evening and infrom you on my results

double d
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im glad you brought this up

im glad you brought this up as i want to put on an alarm but manly to lock/unlock the car ,mine does work on any door so will i not have to mod mine? ta yes

mjheathcote
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Mine has remote central

Mine has remote central locking with alarm.
It is very well installed so maybe Mitsubishi UK or dealer fit when new.
Only annoying thing is that it locks the doors automatically on engine start, and unlocks on engine off.
That's okay but annoying if you are dropping someone off/picking up, and you have to unlock your door at the internal door handle which then unlocks all the doors and tailgate.
A temporary push button switch on the dash to lock and unlock like most modern cars would be good.
I'm sure it can be done.

fordem
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.

mjheathcote wrote:
Mine has remote central locking with alarm. It is very well installed so maybe Mitsubishi UK or dealer fit when new. Only annoying thing is that it locks the doors automatically on engine start, and unlocks on engine off. That's okay but annoying if you are dropping someone off/picking up, and you have to unlock your door at the internal door handle which then unlocks all the doors and tailgate. A temporary push button switch on the dash to lock and unlock like most modern cars would be good. I'm sure it can be done.

Most of the power lock equipped cars that I drive have a lock/unlock button on the driver's door - is it really that much harder to flip the lever to accomplish the same task - I don't find it a problem - and I have programmed the aftermarket alarm system on my cars to automatically lock the doors on engine start, the very same thing that you find annoying.

We drive with the doors locked - for safety reasons - and automating the process just makes it easier/safer - if you're familiar with auto electrics you can rewire the system to lock/unlock when the transmission is shifted in/out of park or neutral (assuming you have an automatic transmission)

fordem
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Yours should not require modification...

double d wrote:

im glad you brought this up as i want to put on an alarm but manly to lock/unlock the car ,mine does work on any door so will i not have to mod mine? ta yes

Your car should have the connections on pins 53 & 54 of C84, if they are present in the harness just tap into them and you'll be fine.

double d
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cheers

fordem wrote:

Your car should have the connections on pins 53 & 54 of C84, if they are present in the harness just tap into them and you'll be fine.

 

ah ok cheers i shall give it a go after christmas yes

TFTG
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Worked like a charm

Did it first thing in the morning and I was so happy to see it working. Thanks for all your help!

fordem
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You're welcome...

I hope you took pictures - at least of the wires added to the ETACS.  I'm back in the wiring on my car right now - I installed a Pioneer powered subwoofer under the passenger seat and need to hook the power up to it.

TFTG
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Sorry for the long wait. I

Sorry for the long wait.

I used cat 5e cables for the signal wire with green being unlock and white/green being lock. I used hot glue to secure it later since my soldering iron was a bit too hot and melted some of the plastic haha.

 

And amps and subwoofers are my fote; I've installed a 4 channel 850W amp and a mono 1000W (400RMS) subwoofer amp in my Pajero as well as replaced all of the OEM door and panel speakers. Also, my friend gave me his front speakers from an old pioneer surround sound system so I carved out my trunk and added the 2 front speakers and a 12" subwoofer. Needless to say, it's loud haha

 

fordem
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I trust you've installed a larger battery

along with a high output alternator.

The original head unit & speakers in my car are long gone, and I put an active subwoofer under the front passenger seat - nothing like you describe, as I simply don't see the point in it.

My audio systems are for my listening pleasure and I just don't need that sort of spl in the confined space of a small vehicle to enjoy the drive.

I also used two strands of CAT5 cable, but I believe I used the orange/white pair - data networking is what puts food on my table.

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