2000IO Auto flashing "Lock" indicator + no rear lights indicator
2000 IO Auto: flashing "Lock" indicator
Written by Mick Sheedy Mick Sheedy's blog
Had this problem for awhile:
Disconnected connections at gearbox; No Joy
From another site located Solenoid Vaccumm Switch near D/s headlamp as recommended sprayed with WD-40; No Joy
Also when in 2H lower green indicator not "on:,when in 4H green upper green indicator "on"
Intend to put on jacks next weekend, would appreciate all comments.
Regards,
Mick Sheedy
CLAUDE IO
Welcome Mick,
2H green light not "on", I guess the lower light, could be the light bulb in the dash.
Flashing lock indicator, I guess the orange light, could be a sensor on the transfer case.
Happy io.
Try not to use the "blog section" it isn't read that much by member.
GasJA
Mick,
I am most interested to find out how you got along with this issue.
I have the same thing happening on a 99 Auto 5door.
I will take the liberty to post this on the main forum.
Where are the solenoids you wish to test?
There are no solenoids on the transfer case - if I recall correctly, there is a vehicle speed sensor, and five switches - the speed sensor will be on the left rear of the case, and has a multipin wiring connector - it has nothing to do with the super select dash indicator lights - there is also a sixth switch on the front differential.
If you have the manual it tells you what voltage you can expect on each switch (you need to have them connected) - personally I find it easier to test the switches with a continuity test - in which case they need to be disconnected - clip one lead to the transfer case housing, the other to the switch wire.
One of the switches senses when the shift lever is between the 4HLc & 4LLc positions - watch out for that one, it only changes state in between those two positions.
There are two solenoid operated vacuum valves low down on the inner front fender (look below the intake manifold & throttle cables) - if that's what you want to test, you need to remove them - a meter will tell you if the coils are good, but not if the valve is working.
Oh - almost forgot - the display is controlled by an electronic controller mounted under the carpet, under the driver's seat - after you have verified the switches as good - that will be your next stop.
correction to last post
My issue is rear wheel green lights never come on in 2H, 4H or 4L.
The Lock indicator is flashing when in 2H and 4H. The Lock indicator is lit, not flashing when in 4L.
FORGOT TO ADD : Front wheel green lights are flashing in 2H. Front wheel green lights are lit, not flashing in 4H and 4L.
Tried using electronic spray on the connectors under the car.
Bulb in the dash for the rear wheel green lights had continuity and looked ok.
How do you test the solenoids with an ohmmeter? Do you need to disconnect them first?
Pretty distracting with the Lock indicator flashing and Front wheel green lights flashing in 2H IMO.
FORDEM
Thanks for the reply, I will let you know how I go.
I think the previous owner did cross shallow creeks, but I don't think the 4WD was used much at all, we don't use 4WD.
progress so far
(C) had continuity to transmission or transfer case when checked with a meter: (NC) no continuity
* Leaving these switches disconnected stops the indicator from being lit or flashing when the ignition is turned ON.
Upper LHS connector plate has 2 connectors removed using long nosed pliers to carefully squeeze the plastic clip on the transmission side.
Top Front connector Brown housing goes to Rear switch under transmission. (C)
Top Rear connector White housing goes to Front switch under transmission. (C) Leaving this switch unplugged stops the Lock indicator*
Rear RHS connector plate has 3 connectors. Used a 12mm socket and extension bar to remove the 2 bolts securing the plate to test.
Top connector Brown housing goes to LHS switch on transfer case. (NC)
Middle connector Black housing goes to RHS Front switch on transfer case. (C) Leaving this switch unplugged stops the green Front wheel indicator*
Bottom connector White housing goes to RHS Rear switch on transfer case. (NC)
I had a look at the switch on the front diff but I didn't realize it had 2 pins in the connector housing so I will need to check it again.
Would be very handy to have spare connectors wired up as a jumper lead, if you were doing this on a regular basis.
I have the wiring circuit diagram SUPER SELECT 4WD-i SYSTEM pages 3-182 and 3-183 but the colours of the wiring on the switch leads don't seem to vary.
Does anyone know what each of the 5 switches are in relation to the circuit diagram?
I did try to get someone inside the car to run the engine and switch from 2L to 2H and 4H to see if the actuator shaft moved (read this on some forum somewhere). It did not move (but then we don't run the 4WD at all).
It looks like I might need 2 switches? Are all the switches the same and what are the part numbers? Where can you buy these, are they available on ebay?
Are they the same as the ones fitted to the Pajero?
AND THE BIG QUESTION - IS IT OK TO UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS I MENTIONED AND DISABLE THE SUPER SELECT INDICATOR?
The connector having (or not having) continuity doesn't say much
It's a switch - depending on it's position, it's going to have continuity or not have continuity - what really matters is that it changes from one state to the other when it should - that's how you know if it's good or bad.
Section 23 of the manual covers the automatic transmission and also includes a section on the SuperSelect system that identifies which connector is which, and also the control positions in which you can expect to have continuity/no continuity.
Is it OK to unplug the connectors - in my opinion - NO - not unless you're going to go one step further and also physically wire the front axle freewheel in the free position - it is theoretically possible to remove the pin that couples the vacuum actuator to the freewheel mechanism, thread a wire in it's place and then tie the mechanism in the free wheel position preventing it from engaging.
If this is not done, there is the possibility of the VCU lock being engaged at the same time as the front axle freewheel, and if you are not aware of this - you can destroy the transfer case - that is why the lock light is there, and also why it lights yellow - it is a warning.
Are the switches all the same - NO - the part numbers are different, I have no idea if they are also used on the fullsized Pajero,and I believe I have seen them advertised on ebay.
Lots of questions, I'll try
Lots of questions, I'll try to help a bit.....
Regarding the flashing orange light
You talked about 2 switches that are close to each other, one with a brown plug the other with a white plug. Check the one with the brown plug with the ignition key with the electrical "on" and transfer case on 2h, check again on 4low. You should have a different reading if not you will need a new one. Then/or try to earth the plug to see if the light goes off (the plug that connect to the car not to the switch!) This was the faulty one on my car....again it doesn't mean that you have the same problem....
I don't think that the big Pajero have the same switches and I rarely seen them on ebay. I think that the brown plug and the white plug are the same, one have the cable a touch shorter.
These two switches part number are (on my io at least) MR388765 and MR388764.
The best place to buy them is on "amayama.com.au" they cost around $23 + freight (around $20) and can take a few weeks to get. If you want I have a good working second hand, you can have it for $25 freight included. It does have a white plug but I think that they can be exchanged as they look to be the same (just different plug colour, at least for these two)
For the actuator,
Check the position of the pin with the engine "off" then start the engine and check if the pin have moved, it should. Do not change transfer gear selection (stay in 2 H). This said, I am not sure but if you have a faulty switch it might not do what it is supposed to do. You could try once you have the plug disconnected (orange light "off"), but I am not sure if it is the proper/suitable way to check.
I am sure other would have some good input too, let us know how you go.
Keep you finding with continuity or not, if later you have other fault these result will help to track them.
Happy io
How did you get the PN's
Hi Claude-IO
Just wondering how did you get those part numbers. I have not yet figured out which model number to look for in the Amayama website. It is a 99 Auto 5dr Model H76W.
Finally found the right file page 23-56 which gives a description for the connectors. Will try and look at what you advised tomorrow.
It looks like disconnecting plug 7 the white connector does not cancel the lock light. Is there any way to edit my post other than the first one?
I am not sure if you have the
I am not sure if you have the transfer case manual, it is the 22D available on this link http://www.pajerio.com/forum/manual-transmission-clutch-workshop-manuals around page 113 you can see the 2 switches but no ref number, just the correct name.
Once on "amayama.com" on the opening page you can click on the "online parts catalogs ",Next page, enter your frame number in the Mitsubishi selection, click on "search" Next screen will give you several options, not sure how to choose, for mine it was only 2 choices, manual or auto. Anyway click the top left. Next screen click on "transfer case", next screen click on "Transfer floor shift control" Next screen you will find 30676P and 30676, once you click them you will get prices and part number.....
It is not always easy to find the parts number as you need to know the exact name that they use. Some manual have parts numbered (like the 30676) and it is then easier to find what you want using this online part number, sometime you only have the name on the manual and the listing will have similar name, but not always.
Another option, that I used a few time, go to your local Mitsubishi and get a written quote, it will have the parts number.
For "Amayama" you need to register, once you find the parts you want you will have to make an order. They will check the availability of the parts and send you an email with total cost (freight included) If you are happy with that, then and only then you will have to pay.
Happy io
"
Syndicate
My issue is rear wheel green
My issue is rear wheel green lights never come on.
The Lock indicator is flashing when in 2H and 4H. The Lock indicator is lit, not flashing when in 4L.
Tried using electronic spray on the connectors under the car.
Bulb in the dash for the rear wheel green lights had continuity and looked ok.
How do you test the solenoids with an ohmmeter? Do you need to disconnect them first?
Pretty distracting with the Lock indicator flashing IMO.