Cant accelerate past 20 kmh

12 replies [Last post]
jgoomps
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 12/01/2014
  • Posts:

I have a 2000 1.8 l Pajero io Gdi. The problem is  the car cannot accelerate past 20kmh the revs cut at 2000rpm and the car jumps as it tries to accelerate. It cant even climb a slightly inclined hill. This mostly happens when you refuel it .

I noticed that it chooses fuel and It takes fuel from two petrol stations only. (I live in Kenya). After sometime it comes back to normal after a few days of driving. I have changed spark plugs as recommended by a mechanic and still experiencing the problem after i refuelled at one of this two petrol stations it suppossedly chooses. Anyone who can help.

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #1
gdi

really don't know - 

will it rev freely without load?

maybe check the timing as it might be running too retarded etc?

.

fordem
  • Online Status: Online
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #2
I would suspect fuel quality as the problem


What plugs did you install?

Bob - as far asI know the timing on the GDI engine is "not adjustable" - at least not the way most of us would do it - you'll need a MUT II/III dealer tool - however it is worth noting that the ECU will detect pre-ignition and retard the timing to compensate.

I think it can safely be said that the GDI engines are known to be sensitive to fuel quality (a quick google search will get you lots of reading material), and given the fact that the problem occurs after refuelling, fuel quality would be my first suspect.

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #3
yes fuel

fordem wrote:


What plugs did you install?

Bob - as far asI know the timing on the GDI engine is "not adjustable" - at least not the way most of us would do it - you'll need a MUT II/III dealer tool - however it is worth noting that the ECU will detect pre-ignition and retard the timing to compensate.

I think it can safely be said that the GDI engines are known to be sensitive to fuel quality (a quick google search will get you lots of reading material), and given the fact that the problem occurs after refuelling, fuel quality would be my first suspect.

agree above 100%

check plugs are the right type and look good (grey to pale tan on electrodes) and then put the highest octane best fuel you can find in it.

.

fordem
  • Online Status: Online
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #4
It's been my experience

and I must admit I don't know if this is a problem with my engine, or if it is to be expected - the plugs are always sooty - soft black carbon deposits indicating a possibly rich mixture.

I'm going to point out here that GDI engines are different to MPI engines in that an MPI engine burns a pretty much homogeneous mixture of fuel & air which it draws in through the intake valve - a GDI engine draws air through the intake valve and the fuel is injected directly into the chamber - when in lean burn mode, the amount of fuel injected is less than that required for the volume of air, and if that amount of fuel were evenly mixed with the air it would be too lean to ignite, but, it is rich enough directly infront of the injector which is where the plug is located and so, it does ignite.

I believe this is the reason the plugs are sooty - I am currently running the recommended plug for my engine which is a standard nickel plug - on the next cgane I plan to go irridium and see what effect (if any) that has.

jgoomps
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 12/01/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #5
Bosch plugs. What do you

Bosch plugs. What do you recommend as the right plugs.

 

fordem
  • Online Status: Online
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #6
What is your frame number?

If you get me the frame number I'll try to find out what plug Mitsubishi specs for the car - the one I am planning to switch to is the IZFR6B whic is not what was specced for my engine.

jgoomps
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 12/01/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #7
Frame is H76. I hope it will

Frame is H76. I hope it will help.

fordem
  • Online Status: Online
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #8
The WHOLE number - H76W blah, blah, blah

H76 tells me you have a long wheel base iO with a 1.8 engine - nothing more.

red_daug
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 02/09/2012
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #9
I maybe going out on a limb

I maybe going out on a limb here but, check your fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and also fuel pump.  I've had this issue with my iO and it turns out to be fuel pressure related. 

nobackup
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 23/03/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #10
Cant rev and no more than 20mph :(

jgoomps wrote:

I have a 2000 1.8 l Pajero io Gdi. The problem is  the car cannot accelerate past 20kmh the revs cut at 2000rpm and the car jumps as it tries to accelerate. It cant even climb a slightly inclined hill. This mostly happens when you refuel it .

I noticed that it chooses fuel and It takes fuel from two petrol stations only. (I live in Kenya). After sometime it comes back to normal after a few days of driving. I have changed spark plugs as recommended by a mechanic and still experiencing the problem after i refuelled at one of this two petrol stations it suppossedly chooses. Anyone who can help.

 

How did you get this fixed ... im in the motions of buying a 1.8GBI automatic long Wheelbase  here in Yangoon ... and during the test drive I had the same thing ...  the dealer said .. no problem ... however ......  

.

.

cezare_Poland
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/12/2013
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #11
on my case that was injectors

on my case that was injectors problem - clogged filters in the injectors + clean injector rail. 

here you have my movie where i try to keep 2k rpm - and engine go down with rpm without any reason

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/7alvauxdkdpehk5/AACW-Flx28sQ7AbvgwZ1JGaZa

i was try to keep throthle on the same position - but as my local GDI guru said "engine did'nt have enugh fuel" 

why i had this  ? i had completelly corroded tank fuel filler neck hose - then i must clean all .. tank, change low pressure pump - clean WC Pump - change small filters who are there, then that was happen - and then the last mile was to clean injector rail + every injector have small fuel filter !.

 

the symptoms was the same like Yours - on the beggining i can drive normally but on low rpm - all was okay, iddle was okay.. after few km's i was not abble to go back to my home - the same symptoms (JUMPS - no matter how open was the throttle  - max open or not ) - like on the movie... 

 

of couse i talking about 1,8 GDI engine - my issue

imraojal
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 02/04/2017
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #12
Same issue different problem

Hi guys. I had the same problem. This will be a slightly long detail but it may help others.

(My io is in Kenya. ) It started in early October 2017. When I start the engine, it takes time to idle, then all of a sudden the check engine light comes on and the car engine shakes vigorously. I had to switch off the engine and re-start it again. It worked perfectly. 

Now, while driving, the car started shaking and the engine check light lit up on the dashboard. This time I immediately knew the ignition coils have a problem. I changed 2 coils( 7 months prior I had changed 2 coils).   The car worked perfectly for 3 weeks when the problem started again, ignition was a problem. same story as in October. End of November, I decided to clean my fuel system. I purchased a fuel cleaner (wynns fuel cleaner for petrol engines) and poured the contents in my fuel tank and filled it up to the brim.

This was where the problem expounded. The vehicle started jerking and could manage a maximum of 40kph. The car could not race at all. Climbing up a small slope proved difficult. rpm would reach 2000 and quickly drop. The engine check light would constantly light up when racing and go off when I don't accelerate. I drove the car to a nearby petrol station and quickly looked for a mechanic. That's when I knew the fuel system is cleaning up and there must be some unit clogged. The mechanic cleaned the throttle, checked the spark plugs which were okay, the fuel injector was fine. We fired up the engine and everything was fine.

I drove for around 25km and the problem started again; the jerking and not able to race. I decided to pull over, rest and head to a nearby town. I found a mechanic and he said the fuel pump may have a problem. We opened it and saw nothing was wrong. Fixed it and headed back to where I came from.  I decided to take it to a proper mechanic the following day.

My friend has a great mechanic according to him. He looked at the vehicle and visually inspected the car. He decided to have a computer diagnostic done to establish the real cause. We took the vehicle to the ECU guy and ran the diagnostics. Immediately he noted that the fuel pump pressure is low; the GDI one next to the engine. It was running at 4.7 MPa when idle and 5.0 MPa when racing.  Therefore we decided either to look for a used fuel pump or to get the pump fixed. 

Luckily there was a guy the mechanic knew who would revive such pumps even when dead. We took the pump to him, he opened it and fixed it. We mounted it where it's supposed to be. In the process, we changed the spark plugs and had to change the camshaft position sensor as it was breaking. Once the entire system was set, started the engine and it was working like a charm. We drove the car back to the ECU guy and the computer reading on the fuel pump read 6.3MPa when idle and 6.6MPa when racing. I paid the guy who cleaned the pump as the condition was the pump works, he gets paid.

Folks, the io is running well now. and this is how I spent USD 200 for all this.

 

Syndicate

Syndicate content

Translate This Site Into Your Language