Front Wheel bearings
Hi All,
The bus has 266 or close on her and i have thrashed her with proper 4wding in the last 3-4months since i have got her but now think wheel bearings are due a change due to some 'unusual' brrrrrring. Im doubting they have been done before.
Any tips? are they pressed or conical??
TIA
Tom
Front bearing
I have done it on my car and lately helped Focusio to do his.They are pressed in. As mentioned above there is 2 models, but the fitting is about the same. If you have ABS, be very careful with the sensor. My advice, find someone with a press. A big hammer will get most everything out but the outer cage will be much easier with a press ( the only thing that worked for me and Focusio ). The clips is strong and you will need to gently hammer it to break the rust/dirt around first. Then if it can turn/move a bit use a pair of long nose plier to remove it.
If too hard, there is a good $$$ saving by removing the hub and take it to the workshop to fit it.
Happy io
What year and model is your io?
I always look here:
http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/mi/mi2.mycat
The result
So Mitsubishi wanted $150 per side ($300) + freight from Japan (unknown and they didnt sound very interested in helping me with the usual "if its not a current model" line)
Sprints wanted $110 per side ($220) and could get them within 2 hours
FEBEST had them for $18.00 each ($36.00) + freight from America (i believe) so $70 to my door and under 7 days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Unbolted them yesterday, re-fit to car tomorrow.
Passenger side: (noisy one) came off the car no dramas then the bearing split trying to punch it out. It left half the inner on the internal shaft and the full outer in the hub. Took 30TONNE of pressure to press it out!!!!!!!!!! my mate (who took it out) said they were waiting for the hub to explode!! The inner i pulled off at his shop but it fought all the way.
Drivers side: (did it while i was doing the other one) hub nut wouldnt undo, bent my socket bar trying to undo it when i sleeved a pipe over the top for leverage. Took the hub, driveshaft still attached, to his shop, Rattled it off....just.. then the drive shaft would not come out of the hub, big copper persuasion bar didnt help, had to be pressed out. Drivers bearing needed 15tonne to push it out of the hub.
Long story short, they are done, labour cost me "nothing" (but did buy my mate a carton for the dramas) and saved a heap by asking on this forum where to get the bearings!!! Thanks guys
Now to bolt back in tomorrow and cross fingers that the bearings were the noise and it wasnt something else. Then some trail bashing
Thanks Again
Syndicate
it depends...
The 2 different australian models had different bearing setups. The later model has a sealed bearing and the pre MY2001 has inner/outer bearings and seals as far as I know.
I actually just ordered new sealed bearings for my late 2001, but I found the job to be a bit of a mission without the right tools. I managed to get the knuckle off, but I couldn't even get the retainer clip out with my pissy little circlip pliers... at which point I inspected the bearings and decided they should last a while longer in my case (rotated the bearing/hub assy and it was smooth and silent, tried to move wheel when assembled by holding at 6 and 12 o'clock and there was no noticeable movement), so I'll be keeping the bearings I bought and get the mechanic to do it for me when I take it in for the 200k service (I'm up to 185k now).
I was watching some videos on youtube of the same bearings being replaced in a lancer - if you search it, there is a series which has 21 videos! But it was pretty informative. Search "lancer wheel bearing 1/21" etc.
They are 'backyard mechanics' and use such things as big hammers, die grinders, cold chisels, etc, but in the end they do use a bearing press to install the new bearing.
All the best.
Size is not important; it's how you use it that matters!