Lifting the io, let me get this right??????
So read through all that 'sticky' thread about options/opinions, now my head hurts, alot haha
My assumption for biggest and cheapest lift is just go with what NZIO has done??
Would it work to make the front spacer from HD nylon and have a sleeve of tube through to the body welded to a plate that is bolted between the nylon spacer and strut top? If that makes sense. so basically a 2 piece spacer, 1 piece is a 80mm tube with flange welded (same shape as NZIO's spacer but maybe 5mm plate), that sits on the strut top then a 25mm (or whatever size) nylon sleeve slides over it and it is all bolted back in with longer high tensile bolts?? Cheaper perhaps? thoughts. perhaps it could even have another 5mm plate bolted bonnet side of the body to help with sway??
And could the diff spacers (body lift spacers) just be nylon aswell like the portugese ones but plate not "washers"???
As for the suspension are NZIO's strut extensions anywhere on this site to be copied? or can they be bought?
Im budgeting for $800ish for this lift, is that realisic. Thats spacers, extenders, springs and shocks if need be. Wheels and tyres another $800ish
Looking like the defender will be gone this weekend, thank god after so many time wasters, will be sad but looking forward to a new toy.
mega lift
OOOKKKK
Front lift:
1) you can drop the wheels down an extra 50mm maximum before the CV joints max out - this means your strut-top spacer and spring lift cannot exceed 50mm
2) you can drop the front diff down with spacers, for every mm dropped you can extend the issue in point 1)
Things you can do:
*strut top spacer - a doughnut that sandwiches between the strut top and the body - use steel/aluminium or structural nylon acetl etc (Natster's thread has a great diagram)
* longer springs - you can fit the old longer front springs into new shorter spring struts to get 20mm lift, or fit king springs lifted springs etc
both of the above changes cannot exceed total 50mm without a diff drop - what they do create is less droop so your wheels cannot move downwards as much as normal - this will cause issues with humps and potholes at speed as your strut topping out before the wheel contacts the bottom of the pot hole etc
next step things to do:
* to allow more down travel you can extend the strut shaft with a spacer cut from an old strut shaft - use super stud lock here - they are minimum 40mm from memory
* space your front diff down with blocks - I would recomend STEEL or ALLUMINIUM solid bar - it would pay to go overkill as this is totally illeagal and un-engineerable so you want to make 110% sure it will never fail - use 8.8 grade flange head bolts when re-assembling. would not use nylon or square tube.
you can now have the front hubs sitting 50mm+ lower compared to the body and have the front diff sitting lower - the ground clearance under the front diff is still an issue so fit bigger rubber - in Australia anything bigger than 235/70-16 is illeagal, 225/75-16 is a few mm oversize for leagality but most of us run this size and risk it.
other options:
the front strut travel is an issue, the maszda tribute / ford escape front strut is 40mm longer than standard when compressed but about an extra 120mm when extended (from memory - i could be wrong) IF you could swap Io springs into the strut, and swap the strut top plate over as well, and if the hub mounts are the same then you could stick these straight in with lifted springs and a diff drop and have 50mm+ lift without the need for strut spacers and without risk of topping the struts out - this has yet to be done but is on my adgenda once I have time to pick up some escape struts from a wrecker.
beyond this you'll need www.pajeroclub.gr and see what the INSANE guys in greece do - awesome awesome and totaly crazy shizzle!!
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as far as the rear goes, BA astina front coils lift the back 30mm, kings can lift more and landcruiser front spacers will fit in io rear, commodore adjustable panhard rod fits io.
singlecell pioneered the massive lift,his thread is worth a long read.
lift
Even I got my head spinning, .....I am not sure that this is correct
Quote
*strut top spacer - a doughnut that sandwiches between the strut top and the body - use steel/aluminium or structural nylon acetl etc (Natster's thread has a great diagram)
* longer springs - you can fit the old longer front springs into new shorter spring struts to get 20mm lift, or fit king springs lifted springs etc
both of the above changes cannot exceed total 50mm without a diff drop - what they do create is less droop so your wheels cannot move downwards as much as normal -
End quote
My understanding, not always good, is that the advantage of the spacer over longer spring (spring that give a lift that is) is that they do not create less droop.
As for the 50 mm, I was agree with Koos990 finding (hope to hear more from him!) http://pajerio.com/forum/max-lift-disagreement-camber-correction-droop
Happy io
The wording is a little confusing.
A strut top spacer that fits between the strut top and the body will NOT limit droop (the downward travel of the wheel from the "rest" position) - the body of the vehicle moves upward relative to the entire strut assembly, and this can create a situation where the CVs are running at a extreme angle, and may be damaged.
Longer springs move the body of the vehicle (including the strut mount and shaft) upwards whilst the lower part of the strut remains in the same position - this creates a situation where the at rest position of the wheel is lower down in the strut travel, and as a result, there is less downward travel available - this makes for a very rough ride, and can destroy the struts rapidly - on the positive side - the body and the lower part of the strut remain in the same relationship, so the CVs are not in any danger.
Strut extenders= no change to
Strut extenders= no change to travel but change to drive axel angle (same as a spacer but on the bottom)
BUT: a diff spacer then splits the angle between the drive shaft and axels and evens it out a bit, therefore dropping the diff BUT allowing bigger tyres so allowing more diff clearance yeah???
I see the tyre rub issue is where it hits the strut plate, so later struts with the corresponding springs ( so no height change there) ,strut extenders and a diff drop really allow the biggest tyres, but then they MAY hit the body on full lock and full compression yes???
To be honest I just want to be able to go 4wding and also drive to work so I prob won't go too extreme. 30mm rear and 40mm front sounds sufficient and easy enough.
Sorry, didn't want to open a can of worms again.
So bolts to that and then the
So bolts to that and then the hub bolts to that again. Like a plate with 4 horizontal bolt holes basically. Created a 'weak spot' as it increases the pivot point I spose. Illegal as shit but with my experience with insurance companies they'll find some reason not to pay anyway, like the AC was on too cold, or radio wasn't on am haha
Syndicate
lift
I don't blame you for having a head spin :) Before this forum, lift were....actually they didn't exit !!
What we found was done by input from several people, some hit and miss, some frustration....but we think that we now have some good option.
For the spacer, I would keep it simple, just a block on nylon should do it. I have done mine in acetal but I have been told that they are made in nylon in Brazil. Acetal is more expensive but should last a bit more.
As to bolt a top ring on the top of the strut tower, I am concern that this might bent the shape of it as it is not flat....I mean if you have a flat surface under, a flat surface on the top, bolted together might see what is between....flat....I might be wrong on that one, I haven't done it.
Diff spacer in nylon, I have seen some for sale for other car in similar product, again acetal would be better.
Strut extensions, you will have to find someone to do them for you, not for sale.
Budget....$+$=? just put some number :)
Happy io
My io is now SOLD Thankshttp://pajerio.com/forum/claudes-io-2002-zr-built-thread-onlyhappy-io