Low iddling when stopped pajero io 1999
I have been having an issue with my 1999 pajero 1.8 gdi io for the past year with it iddling very low when im stopped in traffic, it seems to be getting worse over the last few weeks and esspecially bad when the car has walmed up ( which doesnt take long as im in the caribbean!) the revs drop so low it almost stalls but never does, it just causes a lot of vibration. I disconcted the air flow sensor on the air intake and this seems to solve the problem but i then have a engine managment light on the dashboard. i would replace the whole unit of the air flow sensor but i cant get one here!!! any ideas on a fix??
thanks for your response
thanks for your response guys, mine will fluctuate quite a lot ranging from 500 down to about 100rpm and nearly cuts out then the revs go back up and down until i start to drive again and then there is no problem. this oviously causes a lot of vibration. i tent to left foot brake now when at the traffic light to keep the revs up a little. is there a way to turn up my idle slightly?
Not without a MUT
The GDI engines are "drive by wire" and have no mechanical idle speed adjustments, you need the dealer's Mitsubishi Universal Tool to change any settings.
Adusting the idle is also not the solution, you need to find out why it is hunting and fix that, cleaning the throttlebody would be a good place to start.
Cleaner but not 100% cured
Cleaned up the throttle body and it seems to be much better now. thanks for the input guys
Does it seem cured though.
I have the MPI engine which they say is not so prone to sooting up but nonetheless I cleaned the throttle body today and mine has improved but it is not right, just improved. It looks like either the throttle cable is not returning to the same idle setting because the cable is a bit defective so the throttle sensor gets mixed readings or the throttle sensor unit is not giving good reliable information to the ECU and varies because it itself is defective. The latter is my bet as to what is happening but I'll fit a new cable first then a throttle sensor.
I THINK this is what he's referring to ...
http://pajerio.com/forum/4g93-throttle-body-issues
I own a io mpi 4g93 which I have owned for almost 8 years and gone tru a lot with this vehicle but the latest of them has been that ever so often misfire and code 44 (1&4) cylinder misfire followed by 2000 rpm upon startup also I couldn't accelerate above 40 mph without giving that code and going into to limp mode. I read forums from other vehicles and in here as we'll trying to troubleshoot. Changed coil packs fuel filter tps went bad so changed that and iac also as it hard started too cleaned out egr cleaned coolant temp sensor and fan switch as we'll and was about to change fuel pump as well. 2 months plus and no luck I read I laugh I thought about trading in or selling etc while troubleshooting daily until today I thought of what I could have done to cause this ish. But anyways I cleaned my throttle body with carb cleaner by taking off the intake and opening the butterfly by hand and using the carb cleaner to and it drove fine for a few weeks with higher idle and then my tps went and engine light came on and then limp mode followed slightly after and here I am so what I came across as a solution for those with manual 4g93 and those symptoms is to pull up handbrake with vehicle on and pop into driving so it pulls under load and forces the ecu to relearn the idle after u replaced the tps and leep doing this and high idle and limp mode will be gone and there is this other method called capacitive discharge where u disconnect both terminals and touch them together for a few seconds and this should erase all learned driving parameters to factory
Syndicate
Hello, I had that same
Hello,
I had that same problem with my Pajero IO. After many months of troubleshooting, my mechanic discovered that the engine mounts were too worn out. Engine mounts are rubber bushings whose main purpose is to isolate engine vibrations! After they were replaced (they were only two that required replacing), the vibrations/shakes of the car, especially during idling (when the engine block is shaking the most!), largely disappeared.
So have those replaced. If you don't these bushings will shear off into two, causing the whole engine block to rest on the car body and increase the vibrations, and the car will start stalling.
Post results!
Bryen Walter