Oil filter upgrade Z411 to Z150

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bob_oz
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I'm a bigger-is-better kinda guy so I did this:

Z411 replaced with a Z150 - will let you know how i go
 

Part Z411   Part Z150
Type Oil Filter   Type Oil Filter
Seam Diameter 69.50mm   Seam Diameter 81.00mm
Overall Height 86.00mm   Overall Height 141.00mm
Seal Outside Diameter 64.00mm   Seal Outside Diameter 64.00mm
Thread M20-x1.5-6H   Thread M20-x1.5-6H




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bob_oz
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Oil filter upgrade - perfect!!

yep - perfect! no ill effects.

love the direct bolt-on mod :)

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Claude io
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oil filter

The funny thing is that I would have not the guts to do that but I have no idea why !!! I would be scare to not do the correct thing and get engine failure, your new filter is nearly twice the size of the original one !! 

Is it really a wise move ?? why taking the risk of changing what is working well ??

I can understand that you will have an extra half litre of oil, maybe more filtering but I don't see the "why" or advantages (or need) of that.

I don't know how the engineer choose one size filter other another.....

You should write yep - perfect no ill effects.....YET...lol  

Come on...tell us WHY ???...lol...

by the way, your new signature...not io related...lol...yet...and no, a big filter doesn't count as a starting point to an engine swap....lol...

Happy io

bob_oz
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Big filter why

Bigger than standard filter gives you the following:

More filter surface area, more surface area of filter can, more capacity.

This in turn gives you:

Lower oil velocity in filter and less back pressure on the pump, more filtering for longer (same micron filtering but element in better condition for longer) hypothetically longer filter change intervals, better fileting over standard change periods, better thermal dissipation and more oil volume to also give better thermal dissipation.

Essentially when the filets coat the same there is no reason not to, especially with older engines.

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MadMax
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Z411, thats funny, they are

Z411, thats funny, they are the one I use in my motorbike 

 

I live my life a 1/4 mile at the time

bob_oz
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Z411

I've not got a spare in my travel repair pack.

Most motor vehicles run the smallest filter they can to allow it to bridge the service schedule - this reduces oil capacity in the engine and cost.

Same goes for air filters etc - always as small as possible able to get away with.

If the engineers were able to do the best for your car we would all have thermostat controlled oil coolers and transfer box coolers....

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fordem
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More capacity may be important

bob_oz wrote:
Bigger than standard filter gives you the following: More filter surface area, more surface area of filter can, more capacity. This in turn gives you: Lower oil velocity in filter and less back pressure on the pump, more filtering for longer (same micron filtering but element in better condition for longer)

But I'd rather have it in the oil pan - to the point where I'm considering getting another pan and welding in another 10mm or so more depth - I feel the 3.8 litre pan capacity is inadequate for an off road vehicle - have you ever checked your oil with the iO just slightly off "dead level" - try it, the results might surprise you - top the oil up to the full mark with the right side of the car an inch higher than the left, and then turn the car around so the left side is higher and check the level.

Yeah - I know, all ways check the oil with the car level - it's there in the manual - but I don't drive the car on level ground all the time, and what was an acceptable oil level, on the level, may be too low on a slope.

By the way, the "back pressure on the pump is of no relevance - when the oil gets through the filter it goes into the engine's oil gallerys and thence to the bearings, you're looking at 40+ psi of "back pressure" there - factory spec for the oil pressure with the engine warm and at 3500 rpm is294~686 kpa, 42~99 psi - so your pump had better be able to withstand that kind of pressure.

There's one, perhaps critcal detail missing from your filter comparison - the OE filter uses a drain back (or anti drain back) valve - which prevents the oil in the galleries draining back through the filter - something that could be critical given the filter location on the very bottom of these engines, and the fact that the oil has to get all the way to the hydraulic lifters at the very top - the last thing you want is to have to wait for cold, thick oil to make it's way up on a cold start.

The Ryco catalogue does not mention a drain back valve and I tried & failed to cross-reference the Ryco numbers against Purolator who do.

bob_oz
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drain back

yep they have an anti-drain back valve, and al flters use the same medium, and the same over-pressure bypass PSI (15psi)

the Io pan could easily e deepened at the pan-joint - but the feeder would need to be lengthened to reach the lower pan bottom. - maybe just a pin/box pipe fitting could extend it then laser-cut the spacer to suit the new oil feed height.

 

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Ettienne
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video clip

Hi There

 

I love my IO and have a lot still to do. Can someone please remove this video clip. It is irretating like hell. Has nothing to do with this forum. Rather put a gallery of funky IO's repeating. Was great the first 5 times to whatch. No more please!!!

 

Thanks

Ettienne 

 

Thanks from E van eck

helijohn
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Which

[quote=EttienneCan someone please remove this video clip.[/quote]

 

Which clip would that be??

Work in progress on my just acquired delapidated  2003 Vivo 11 Junior in need of TLC    

Do it right, use Hammerite.

Why simpify when it is simpler to complicate.

 

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