Poly Bushes - New Listing for Pajero IO (H77W chassis - 2002 5dr Auto 2.0L) - R&D
Hi Forum,
My car is with the good people at Poly Tuff near me in Brisbane Australia! Mick the manager is currently measuring, creating and fitting poly bushes to the front diff to replace the following below. This is great because there is next to nil after market alternatives for Pajero IO bushes.
UPDATE 30/09/2015 - I am getting the following replacements from Poly tuff and there will be a catalogue listing for the following:
- 3 x Front Diff Mount Bushings
- Front Strut Bar to Chassis Bushings
- Front Sway Bar mount bushings
- Rear, Lower trailing arm bushings front and rear of the arm
- Rear, upper trailing arm bushings frotn and rear of the arm
- No rear spring spacer was available but he had doubts with brake line / panhard rod & air locker line
UPDATE 2/10/2015
Now driving around with all new poly bushes, new front struts + RDA rotors and brake pads replacedment... Car feels beautiful on the road! all the clunks and noises in the suspension GONE! Testing out land cruiser park on the 3rd and 4th
UPDATE 11/10/2015
Now have the official write up with pics! Been on the car for the past few thousand km's and no squeaking, firm ride and performed great out at Land Cruiser park! Tackled some difficult tracks out land cruiser and a lot of highway driving and the ride has never been this comfortable and quiet!
See below:
Note: All correct safety gear must be used when carrying out procedure
Front Diff Centre Support.
Remove the steering rack mount bolts to allow for easy access to top bolt removal on “Centre Support”
Remove 2 x rear bolts on “Centre Support”
Remove mount from vehicle and proceed to remove rubber & Original outer casing /shell complete via press or burn rubber out and cut shell out with hacksaw.
Original rubber bushing outer casing / shell must be removed for fitment of new PolyTuff bushings
Pic 1: Centre mount removed from vehicle, shows damaged rubber bushings
Front Diff Outrigger Support Mounts RH & LH side
Loosen the 4 x mounting bolts and centre bolt so brackets can swing down.
RH side is a little tricky to swing down; you will need leaver bars and may have to loosen cross member mount bolts.
Or remove CV shaft so brackets can be completely removed from vehicle.
Apply heat to outer casing and once enough heat has been applied original rubber can be pushed out from shell, see simular process on U Tube
“DIY How To Remove Rubber Suspension Bushing”
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jC2xmp15WZ0
After original bushing removal all rubber remnants must be removed and area cleaned.
Note: inside you will feel a bump in the steel work, this is correct, don’t try and remove.
Grease and fit supplied bushings and refit mounts to vehicle.
Pic 2: shows heat being applied to casing for rubber removal.(brackets in vehicle)
Pic 3: shows 2 x outrigger brackets hanging down, rubber bush removed
Note: 2nd option remove CV shafts and remove brackets from vehicle if not confident to apply heat while brackets still attached to vehicle.
Pic 4: Shows rubber bush after removal.
Pic 5: shows cleaning of area before fitment of replacement bushings
Pic 6: Shows new bushings. NOTE: Bump in casing, don’t try and remove, Replacement bush has cut out area for this locating bump.
Replacement bush kit part number = 1 x MC5902K (contains enough bushings & centre tubes to complete all 3 x mounts.)
Radius Rod Bushings
Pic 7: Shows original worn rubber Strut Bar bushing
Replacement kit part number (completes both sides of the vehicle) = 1 x RR0497K
Rear Trailing arm Bushings
Pic 8: Shows Rear Suspension, Lower Trailing Arms Front & Rear , with original worn rubber bushings removed.
Note: Lower Front bushing you must remove original rubber and outer casing/shell from arm
Lower Rear bushing has no outer casing/shell, so just remove original rubber
Sorry no Pic: Upper Trailing arm Front & Rear bushings but again you must remove original rubber and outer casing/shell from arm.
Rear Suspension Lower Trailing Arms
Lower Trailing arm Front bush replacement kit number = 1 x TA5128K (Completes both sides of the vehicle)
Lower Trailing arm Rear bush replacement kit number = 1 x TA5129K (Completes both sides of the vehicle)
Rear Suspension Upper Trailing Arms
Upper Trailing arm Front Bush replacement kit = 1 x TA5128K (Completes both sides of the vehicle)
Upper Trailing arm Rear Bush replacement kit = 1 x TA5130K (Completes both sides of the vehicle)
A lot of the Pajero IO's that hit passed 200km and/or are used off road regularly especially when lifted will wear these bushes faster then regular, and they are a bit of a pain to replace (pretty much CV out or at least manovuered around) I am hoping the poly bushes in the front will last longer and be more durable than the stock rubber bushes. If you have a bump/thump going over bumps or coming on/off/on power that sounds like it's coming from the front diff chances are these bushes may be the culprit (not to rule out struts/bearings and other things) My rubber ones are rooted!
Granted there is a lot of debate on the internet on about Poly VS Rubber/OEM bushes for 4x4 in regards to flex / life / squeaking etc - I am more than happy to be the guniea pig for this and feed back to this online community. Mick is doing this as apart of his R&D to have a catalogue listing for our Pajero IO's bushes.
A lot more info to come as the week progresses and I may not replace all 8 of the bushes in the rear lower and upper control arms with poly due to concerns with mud/water crossings messing with the poly bearings but we will discuss further with the poly mob and testimonials. Worst case scenario I have 8 new OEM bushes on their way anyway.
To let you know what we are on about see below.
Also they are looking at putting a 1" rear spacer above the springs in the rear (I run king springs) but the chances are slim with the king springs being very heavy duty and there may not be enough room in the brake lines or adjustment in the panhard rod.
Cheers,
Simmo
Poly body - rubber diff
Reply here or reply there?
You asked the question here - but I do feel the reply really belongs in the other thread.
Back when I needed rear bushes and could not find, I was toying with the idea of fabbing a set of adjustable links using rod ends (like the Currie Enterprises Johnny Joints) - the trouble with rod ends is they transmit noise, so the norm is to use them at one end of the link only.
You could do the samething with polybushes - use them at the frame end of the link and rubber at the axle.
Rubber bushes are usually bonded to metal sleeves - an outer sleeve that is a press fit into the eye on the link, and an inner sleeve that is clamped in place at the two ends by the bolt that passes through the middle - although not all of the bushes on the iO have these sleeves. The movement of the axle causes the rubber to twist in beween the sleeves.
Poly bushes are not bonded and have signifcantly less "compliance" (they don't twist like rubber) - a poly suspension bush is usually a press fit in the eye on the link, and pivots (like a bearing would) on the inner sleeve.
The movement at the frame end is essentially up/down, but at the axle end, things are different - the two ends of the axle move independently up/down, forcing a twisting movement - this twist is present at both ends of the link, but more at the axle end
Will quiz about the body/frame side bushes to go poly (with just the up and down movement) and then the diff side bushes rubber (to keep the flex)
Syndicate
I doubt that mud & water are going to be much of a problem.
I don't see mud & water as being much of a problem with polyurethane rear bushes - the "bearing" surfaces are pretty well protected by the flanges that the bushes sit in between - where I see the issue is the lack of "lateral" flex - which I feel is critical to proper articulation.