Rear trailing axle tie bar
Hi all, Im new here, My wife has a 2002 2.0 gdi elegance (uk model) The rear tie bar has snapped of the chassis, this means the rear axle is free to move around, please check yours for rust.
There is a picture hear posted by BOB OZ its the front bracket that has snapped off.
more pictures
Damn!!
so much rust in europe!!!
at leat the tie bar is an easy repair with a section of generic steel "U" channel welded in
Yeh, tell me about it,, we have decided to p/x for a KIA SPORTAGE 2.0lts deisel. I must admit I am disapointed with the Pinin and its rust problems, the front cross member under the radiator is also badly corroded.
More pictures here of the chassis and the repair.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kfeqqb3thcp6ap9/pinin%20chassis1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0w7mpdzpp2sdsmw/pinin%20chassis2.jpg?dl=0
New car on order
I have decided to go ahead and partx the pinin, It was the wife first car, we have had it since 2004 when it had 7800 miles on the clock, now done 91300 miles
repairs that have been done in last 10 years.
centre exhaust x2 £125 each+fitting
front exhaust down pipe x2 £80 each +fitting
rear exhaust £150+fitting
full stainless exhaust £310
brake pads -front £20+fitting
rear disc's and pads and front pads £200 (the garage fitted new pads to old disc's on the front and they warped)
New front disc's and pads £65
replacment throttle body, ( these cost £1200 new, mutsubishi do a reconditioned one at £425,, I went for the reconed option)
timing belt £180
3 front wheel bearings £130 each
Collecting the new car next week.
Kia Sportage 2.0 crdi XE (2006 mk2)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q9jtqaxu90iysf4/20150104_141613.mp4?dl=0
Just selling/part exchanging,
Just selling/part exchanging, the repair was carried out by a qualified garage and it will pass an MOT here in England, so is now structuraly sound. I' am just fed up with the repair costs, i'am disabled so cannot do the repairs myself...the car is worth £1100 to a motor trader, I have spent £1500 over the last 3 yrs in repairs. I could have broke the car down but It would take a long time to get all the parts sold, a breakers yard would only give about £75 to 'scrap' the vehicle.
It should if looked after see a few extra years,. The chassis can be cut away and repaired further, along with the front cross member under the radiator.
http://www.mitzybitz.com/prod
http://www.mitzybitz.com/product-category/pajero/pajero-io-shogun-pinin/
this guy below will post world wide
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Breaking-Mk1-Mark-One-Mitsubishi-Pajero-Shogun...
just down the road from me, Give me details and I will check ithe parts for you, or see if they will post to aussie. Let me know
rust
Damn!!
so much rust in europe!!!
at leat the tie bar is an easy repair with a section of generic steel "U" channel welded in
Yeh, tell me about it,, we have decided to p/x for a KIA SPORTAGE 2.0lts deisel. I must admit I am disapointed with the Pinin and its rust problems, the front cross member under the radiator is also badly corroded.
More pictures here of the chassis and the repair.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kfeqqb3thcp6ap9/pinin%20chassis1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0w7mpdzpp2sdsmw/pinin%20chassis2.jpg?dl=0
I spent most of my spare time over the summer removing rust from my pinin, i bought new chassis sections for the rear as the rust was so bad and had been patched up badly before, at £75 each they didn't seem too bad but they were far more work to fit than anticipated- i also had to repair the bottom of the rear panel along its entire length, rebuild the spring mounts and cups and replace the filler neck as it crumbled to dust when removed- i still have the front cross member to do as i just patched this for the mot
Hi I also I had to replace
Hi I also I had to replace the fuel filler tube,, I forgot abot that around £80.I could smell petrol evey time I filled up, then noticed it all over the floor at the petrol station .. It's realy odd that the front cross member under the radiator goe's as it's not realy subject to harsh weather conditions
filler neck cover
i have left the filler neck plastic cover off for now to make it easier to clean, as far as i can see mud gets trapped behind it, stays wet and corrodes the pipe, all the areas that have been repaired were zinc primed before being coated with upol raptor ( 2pack stonechip/bed liner), once that had gone off everything that didn't move was coated with noxudol 700 cavity wax so am hoping it will last a bit longer, will get the front sorted out this summer with a bit of luck so i wont need to worry any more
Hi,,the only problem with
Hi,,the only problem with leaveing the inner wheel arch plastic guard off the filler pipe is that all the road 'crud' will be thrown against the pipe and will in effect be shot blasting the pipe, I would put it back on with zip ties and remove every 2 months and inspect it.
Battery acid may be the cause.
It's realy odd that the front cross member under the radiator goe's as it's not realy subject to harsh weather conditions
When I got my iO, the plastic battery tray had been cut to fit a longer battery - when things like that are done (or the tray simply left out), it allows any acid leaks to drip onto the sheet metal - I had a similar problem with a different vehicle, so I knew from that experience that I needed to check the iO, and sure enough there was significant corrosion under the battery stand - unfortunately this area is difficult to see on the iO, and you may need to remove the headlamp or get underneath to get a good look at the area.
Syndicate
rear tie bar
Damn!!
so much rust in europe!!!
at leat the tie bar is an easy repair with a section of generic steel "U" channel welded in
.