Sweis's Ride
4g94MPI
I am busy replacing the front crank oil seal. The biggest job so far was to loosen the pully bolt. Stripped it all down but now it is dark. I will carry on tomorrow. Still have to remove the gear on the crank shaft to get to the oil seal. So far it has been a fairly easy job. Will try and take some pictures.....
oil leak
Don't know what is wrong - i
Don't know what is wrong - i can't upload anymore pics?
will try later again!
I must say the 2 hardest most difficult thing was to loosen the crank bolt(which i did with cranking the starter) and removing the old seal!
The rest was fairly easy. The keyway pops out with ease and the gear just slides off (once you removed the pic up sensor) hey BOB_OZ? 
cambelt
Well done...
The manual does show the sensor but I didn't see the 2 bolts on the manual. Is that sensor in one piece or does it have some kind of spring ?
Are you replacing the other seal (camshaft) and the water pump? or other ?
That oil leak looked pretty bad....
Happy io
Sensor
Well done...
The manual does show the sensor but I didn't see the 2 bolts on the manual. Is that sensor in one piece or does it have some kind of spring ?
Are you replacing the other seal (camshaft) and the water pump? or other ?
That oil leak looked pretty bad....
Happy io
The sensor is one piece with a bracket that bolt with it. If you remove the 2 bolts the bracket will come of and the sensor stay behind - it as acting as a magnet so just pull it off. I replaced the cam seal about 3 months ago which i thought was the source of the oil leak but turned out to be the crank seal. No i only repaired the oil leak.
i am posting more photos....
clearance
Out with the old
One problem...
Your "protection" rubber will keep the dust & dirt out - but it has no "bump stop" - look at the original rubber boot, the top 2~3 inches are designed to cushion the impact if/when the strut compresses fully - which I'm pretty certain will happen if you're running stock springs - notice the originals are split?
Yes I did take that into
Yes I did take that into consideration. The extra travel will come in handy! But I don't believe the coil will compress that much and so far for it to bottom out. I will pull it onto something and check if it articulate and see what happens!
Did you notice the original bump rubbers are split?
Be warned, "static articulation" and dynamic articulation are different - a quick google search suggests that those terms are not in common use, so I'll explain what I mean by them.
You can, just for example, lift a front wheel with a fork lift until the other front wheel or the rear on the same side starts to lift - or - drive on to a RTI ramp and measure how much the suspension travels - I'm defining that as "static articulation" - the articulation that occurs with the vehicle essentially static or stationary - the prblem is, that this procedure does not take into consideration the dynamic forces that come into play when a vehicle is in motion - for example - the body of the vehicle moving downwards at the same time as the wheel is moving upwards.
I'd say I've replaced my fair share of split bump stops (including on my iO) and a few struts along the way - you feel your safe - carry on smartly.
Bump Stop
Be warned, "static articulation" and dynamic articulation are different - a quick google search suggests that those terms are not in common use, so I'll explain what I mean by them.
You can, just for example, lift a front wheel with a fork lift until the other front wheel or the rear on the same side starts to lift - or - drive on to a RTI ramp and measure how much the suspension travels - I'm defining that as "static articulation" - the articulation that occurs with the vehicle essentially static or stationary - the prblem is, that this procedure does not take into consideration the dynamic forces that come into play when a vehicle is in motion - for example - the body of the vehicle moving downwards at the same time as the wheel is moving upwards.
I'd say I've replaced my fair share of split bump stops (including on my iO) and a few struts along the way - you feel your safe - carry on smartly.
Thanks for your input FORDEM
I will see how it goes and if it creates a problem i will have no choice but to replace/insert them.
bump stop
Yes I did take that into consideration. The extra travel will come in handy! But I don't believe the coil will compress that much and so far for it to bottom out. I will pull it onto something and check if it articulate and see what happens!
I like your idea of trying to improve the wheel travel...but....
Saying that the extra travel will come handy, maybe, I don't know...then you said that you don't believe that the coil will compress that much....It is one or the other.
If it does bottom out, true not very often, on some car/driver never, but if it does it will have a hammer effect on your top support bearing.
If you keep it that way, I would measure where the top of the tyre will arrive, and the lower section of the car (compare to the floor) if you get close to full compression, making sure it doesn't touch anywhere.
Well done on the new strut and they make the io safer and nicer to drive/handle.
If you dare ! you can put them back in without removing the strut from the car or using a spring compressor. I have done it....not easy but it can be done !
Happy io
new tyres
Nice...The AT BFG are so much better than your yokohama geolandar, I had them a long time ago too. This will be a big difference while doing some 4wd and they are good on the road and last very long (my AT BFG, smaller in size lasted more than 80000kms)
And they will give an good extra lift....
Happy io
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Francois Hamman
francoish.doosan@gmail.com