What are your headlight like?

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fordem
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When I got my iO, the headlights were absolutely dismal - I didn't pay that much attention at the time, as there were more pressing issues to be dealt with and I wasn't using the vehicle much after dark.

Having sorted out the urgent issues, I have time to look at smaller things and discovered the bulb in the right headlamp was incorrectly installed so that the beam pointed skywards, rather than forwards (and at a sharp enough angle that it did not dazzle oncoming drivers) - I've since fitted Sylvania SilverStar Ultras, which made a big difference, and also spent considerable time fiddling with alignment, but they're just not that great.

Recently I just happened to have the iO parked alongside my Grand Vitara and started both engines and put both sets of headlights on - both vehicles are equipped with the SilverStar Ultras, although the ones in the GV are about two years or so older.  I discovered that I had the iO lights aimed slightly higher than the GV lights, but the GV lights were brighter - this by the way is with the lights on both vehicles aligned as per the service manual.

I also know from experience that I can drive the iO with the high beams on without being flashed by the oncoming traffic, but if I forget to dip whilst driving the GV, I will be reminded.

Something else I noticed - if I put my hand on the headlamp lens when the light is on, the top half of the iO headlamp is warm, the bottom half is cold - on the GV, the entire surface of the lens is warm.

What are your lights like?

natsterrr
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Terrible

My headlights are terrible.

The only thing that I like about them is that they do point very low - not sure if its factory setting or not, but they only illuminate about 10m in front of the car - possibly because as soon as someone sits in the back of my 3 door, the angle of the car is affected a fair bit.

My high beams are barely noticable. They are pretty much just like a 20% brighter version of the standard lights. Which is still really dull.

I once tried my driving lights (before they were stolen), and they did even less than the high beams. I hope its not anything to do with the wiring. One day I'll replace the bulbs, maybe that will make a difference...

Size is not important; it's how you use it that matters!

singlecell
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I am also not happy with mine. Low beam is good enough for me, but as stated above high beam is not good enough.  My driving lights are also shit, but this is because I bought the cheapest one on the shelf.  I would like better ones, but I feel silly putting decent lights on the little mount I am using, haha.

fordem
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There may be ways to improve it.

Google Daniel Stern Lighting - somewhere on the website you'll find a chart showing how much light you get out of an automotive bulb (globe to you guys) as the supply voltage varies - and I believe he also markets a relay harness that can be used to ensure that your headlamps are fed the maximum possible voltage, and you can build your own relay harness if you choose.

I haven't done any measurements to see what the voltage on the iO is like, although it is on my to do list - I also picked up a couple of sets of "high temp" headlamp bulb sockets that I had picked up for such a project, because the lamps on the GV are about a volt or so down from the battery voltage, making them perhaps 30% down on output.

As regards driving lamps, I'm considering them - probably Hella 500s.  I will tell you this though, when it comes to any auxiliary lamps - driving, fog or spot - buy one of the recognized brands, even if it's at the low end of their price range.  There is a lot of cheap crap available - ranging from what is essentially little more than a bulb in a housing with a lens in front (no - I did not forget the reflector, the manufacturer didn't include one) to stuff that looks decent, but doesn't perform.  I've been through quite a few cheap lights, mostly for the looks.

One of things I like to look for is a well defined beam pattern - if the manufacturer doesn't publish details of the a beam pattern, and preferrably a diagram, in his specification, it's off my list,

singlecell
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Thats an interesting idea about the volatage drop, they do draw a fair amount of current so if the wiring isnt up to scratch there could be some.  Building a wiring hardnes would be pretty simple.  A couple of relays and some decent wire should be all thats needed.

I am keen to get some decent driving lights, but I want something decent to mount them onto first. I havent really seen anthing good around, any ideas?

fordem
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That might depend on your definition of decent.

I was considering the rectangular Hella 550s until I came across a picture of a red iO with circular lamps mounted to the strip of metal below the grille - I've since decided I'll probably use a circular Hella - either the 500 or 500FF - and maybe mount it the same way.  I do need to investigate a little further to see how strong that strip of metal is, and how much reinforcement it will need - if the lamp vibrates the bulb fails prematurely because of fatigue.

singlecell
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That is probably my car your talking about, look in my build thread and check.  Its not a very good mount, its not a very solid mount, it does vibrate a bit.  I would also worry someone would steal decent lights from it.

NZIO
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mine are OK

I'm pretty happy with my headlights and the spread of light top to bottom looks even to me - I've not had to replace my bulbs yet but assume they are just a standard halogen bulb. Is this problem related to the comments in an earlier thread about discoloured headlight covers that many of you seem to have (mine are clear)?

natsterrr
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Mine are clear

Mine are clear. Headlights just not very good.

Curiously, in one scathing review I read about the iO's at the time of their release in Australia, it said that the headlights were the best thing about the car. It said the high beams went for km, if I remember correctly...

My stolen driving lights were on a little perch which mounted where the front number plate bolts on. I came out to my car one morning to see the number plate under the windscreen wiper, and nothing else on the front of the car. I guess it was nice of them to leave the number plate for me, saved me the trouble of going to the RTA! I've since installed the plates with security screws, perhaps these could be used on a light mount as well? I know a lot of lights come with tamper proof fittings (reputable brands I mean).

I think if I do add lights I would try and fit something to the fog light blanks in the front bumper. Probably not the best spot to put high-beams, but I'll wait and see what happens with replacement globes/wiring/relays in the standard headlights. One day...

Size is not important; it's how you use it that matters!

Claude io
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Headlight survey

I am happy with mine, my high beam have a  good output.  I haven't notice any difference in temperature.

Happy io

fordem
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Many answers

To singlecell - no - not your car, same color, but your lights appear to be mounted lower down on some sort of mount in front of the bumper.  The one I saw had the lights mounted on the metal strip that runs from side to side below the headlamps & the grille - it would probably be quite difficult to steal the lamps mounted there since you access to the mounting nuts is restricted by the grille - the potential problem is that it's a long narrow strip of metal and it may flex.  Thinking back, I believe it may have been a site called the Pajero Owners Club UK.

To NZIO - I don't think the light covers (the plastic lens) is the issue here - I keep mine polished & clean, I hate to see them discolored.

To NATSTERRR - I'd say the fog light blanks are the worst possible place to put driving lamps - too low & too small - fog lamps do a different job, and are mounted differently.

bob_oz
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UV yellowing headlights & relays

My headlights have started to drop off in light output too!

Since moving to QLD i cannot believe the number of yellow headlights up here - seems like every second car's headlights have yellowed from sun exposure. I fitted headlight protectors back in 2009 and THEY have started yellowing too, but not the headlights underneath.

Maybe is a UV thing? but I had heaps more UV living in tasmania and yellow headlights are not a common thing down there.
Maybe it is a heat thing? i.e. sun reflecting out of the lens heats up the plastic front of the light and yellows it when parked outside.

In any case I'm leaving my protectors on and letting them go yellow, but I will be running relays for the headlights as I drive home at dusk through the forest and need some extra penetration to see roos etc.

I've run relays on all of my cars except my io to date, and learnt some good lessons if you are going to DIY.:
 
* use good quality multi-fine stranded wire at least 4mm/6mm cross sectional area (not extension leads or house earth wire) does not need to be twin wire, could be singles and just bind it up with harness tape once wired up
* think about where you are running your harness, be aware of the fans, head from the radiator and rub points from the bonnet. I usually run across below the radiator instead of along the top tank. Secure this harness well as vibrations will wear through the insulation over time.
* Run one relay for low beam and one for high beam and an extra for your driving lights.
* Power each relay from it's own inline blade fuse holder direct off battery + terminal so if you blow a fuse you still have the other beam. mini blade fuses come in upto 50A rating and the inline holders are waterproof so work well. You can buy relays with a mount plate that allows multiple relays to slot together, keeps the engine bay neat. Also buy relays with relay bases instead of using individual spade connectors as this reduces the chances of inadvertently dumping the live feed back into your OME harness when changing relays at night. 
* carry a spare relay and blade fuse in the glovebox as they do tend to fail at inopertune moments and the Io's don't seem to have any spare's in the fuse holder (blew up my cig socket fuse recently and had to pull the dash fuse out to cover)
* Run the earth wires back to the - terminal. Do not assume the original earth mounts and wiring will handle the added current without reducing the potential.

I generally leave the existing headlight harness intact and use whichever headlight plug is near the battery as the pickup for the relays so in future I can easily unplug the relays and go back to std harness. You can buy H4 style pickups to plug into your H4 OME harness to wire into the relays instead of using blade terminals. It is worth taping up the old sockets to prevent mud etc getting in.

You can also buy high-temp heavy duty plastic H4 bulb connectors for your harness as the extra current will tend to melt OME headlight plugs if you get dirt/moisture into them.

Will post up photos once I wire mine up

 

.

fordem
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The yellowing may be nothing

The yellowing may be nothing but baked on dirt - I've been polishing mine with Meguiar's Plastx for years, and a few weeks back a friend suggested I try wiping them with a rag and a degreaser called Purple Blaster (I guess any spray degreaser would work) - presto - lights sparkling clean with a simple swipe.

singlecell
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You can also get these, its a relay and fuse integrated into one. Pretty cool idea.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4076&keywords=relay&form=KEYWORD

I might make up some this after noon, should be interesting to see if there is any difference afterwards.

singlecell
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Change of plans, HID kits are only 80 bucks from australia on ebay now, 50 if you want to get it from china. Bought a set of them to try out, my father has them in his patral and they are great. (and illegal i do beleive.)

fordem
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Those are neat but a little low on the amp rating.

singlecell wrote:

You can also get these, its a relay and fuse integrated into one. Pretty cool idea.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4076&keywords=relay&form=KEYWORD

I might make up some this after noon, should be interesting to see if there is any difference afterwards.

Those relays are rated for 15A, on the low side for headlight use - a pair of 80W high beam lamps will be pushing them to the limit - something cloer to 30A would give a little safety margin.

singlecell
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fordem wrote:

singlecell wrote:

You can also get these, its a relay and fuse integrated into one. Pretty cool idea.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4076&keywords=relay&form=KEYWORD

I might make up some this after noon, should be interesting to see if there is any difference afterwards.

Those relays are rated for 15A, on the low side for headlight use - a pair of 80W high beam lamps will be pushing them to the limit - something cloer to 30A would give a little safety margin.

There is a 30amp one too. I just copied the link to the top one.

80W globes will only pull 7 amps each, I was thinking one fuse per filament. 

fordem
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They are illegal

HID retrofits won't do much for you - and they are illegal in Australia.

The problem with retrofitting a discharge light source into a filament lamp housing is that the two sources require different optics (the lens/reflector combination), it's not just about locating the light source at the focal point of the optics - the actual shape of the two sources are different.

Yes - the HIDs will give you lots of light, scattered all over the "foreground" making it look like an improvement, but since it can't be properly focussed, it won't help you see any further up the street and it's absolute murder for the on coming traffic.  My suggestion is that you get behind the wheel of a car with factory fitted HIDs and see what those are like and then compare them to the old man's patrol.

My daughter's Xtrail has factory HIDs (low beam only) and they are absolutely amazing, but they make the halogen high beams look pathetic, and my GV with the Sylvania SilverStar Ultras have a greater "reach"

singlecell
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I have read a bit about the issues with them, but to get new halegen bulbs and some gear to make up the harnesses it was going to cost about the same so I figured it was worth the risk.

I have not been in a factory fitted HID car yet, but I know my dads head lights crap all over mine, but that would probably have to do with a lot more then just the hid kit.  Ill guess Ill find out if its worth in it a few days.  With any luck Ill remember to take before and after photos.

On a side note, this after noon Ill be visiting a 4x4 accessories store where my uncle works to see how much it will cost to get a bash plate and snorkel fabricated.  I went throught water yesterday which turned out to be deeper then I thought and came up to the bonnet for a bit, got a bit of water into the intake, lucky no damage. Figured it time to get it done.

NZIO
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Retrofit HID

I agree these are a bad idea - I've been flashed a few times by oncoming cars with obviously non-factory HID lights and when there's no street lighting around it sears your eyeballs in a very dangerous way. First time it happened I was coming up on a cyclist and just had to brake hard as I suddenly couldn't see him any more. Murder as Fordem says, or at least manslaughter....

singlecell
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If they are crazy bright I will remove them, I have no intention of looking like a douchebag on the road.

I have purchased the lowest wattage I could fine, which is 35.  I have no doubt there are people crusing around with 75+ systems, which would be like staring into the sun.

NZIO
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Good-o

Fair enough... I'll be keen to see how you get on with them.

fordem
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The brightness is not the real problem.

Point your iO towards a flat surface this evening and look at pattern cast by the low beam headlights - the low beams will have a cut off pattern with a very distinct flat top that "pitches" upwards on the left side (for right hand drive cars) - what that does is allow you to see road signs etc on the left side of the street without dazzling the oncoming drivers - it's almost impossible to duplicate that cut off pattern with a retrofit HID

Singlecell - try this with the old man's car

fordem
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I found a 30A version of those relays locally

I was down in town this morning and came across a 30A version of those "fused" relays, so I may pickup a handfull of them when I've finished my current projects  - this weekend is a swap out of the O2 sensor in an attempt to get the iO's erratic & excessive fuel consumption under control, and once that's done, the suspension is up next - if the KYB dealer has managed to get me the front struts.

Claude io
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new light

Hi Singlecell, how are the new lights going?

Happy io

singlecell
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Not too bad, They certainly are not going to disturb other drivers.  They do shine a bit further, and I do prefer the white like when I am highway driving.  But when driving around town with amber street lights it just make the road look annoying.

fordem
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The headlights really aren't that bad...

A couple of nights back, my eldest parked her Xtrail in front of the house and I needed to move it to put my car away - she has OEM low beam HIDs, and I was quite surprised when I got back behind the wheel of the iO to realise that the low beam "spread" of the headlights is actually quite good, the big difference between her HIDs and my SilverStar Ultras is the color, (the HIDs are a bluish white) - Xtrail has halogen high beams, which look distinctly yellow, and neither car has particularly good range on the high beams.

I need to see what bulbs her high beam uses, so I can get her a pair of the SilverStar Ultras

RSR
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Mine are good

Mine are good since i have replaced the original globes with Philips X-treme vision plus 100 H4 globes, led park light globes and also a set of HID spotties always helps.

Claude io
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front bar

Hello Rsr, that front bar looks very good, and while I am happy with my standard light a couple of extra spot light can be handy....I have heard of these "Philips X-treme vision plus 100 H4" are they as good as are advertised? are they worth the "investment"?

Happy io.

RSR
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They are around about $50.00

They are around about $50.00 for a two pack (with two park globes included) and claim up to 20 meters longer beam with a greater light output on the road, they are also ADR compliant. I waited until one of the original globes blew and then replaced them with these, although not as good as HID I am happy with them.

They also keep the current draw down as they are 60/55w you can put higher watage globes in but the wiring, plug and lens are not really compatible so I'd advise against using higher wattage globes.

natsterrr
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I finally took the plunge

After noticing that one of my headlamps was blown, I decided to try some new improved globes. I couldn't find the Philips ones, but I bought some narva plus 100 H4's from supercheap for $68, without parking globes.
Not cheap, but I kinda needed them.
I can't believe I didn't replace them sooner. They make such a big difference. The packet said they offer 35m more vision, and in my case I think that's an understatement.
Very happy with the purchase so far. The packet did say to expect a shorter life than standard bulbs, so I guess time will tell how good an investment they were.

Size is not important; it's how you use it that matters!

Daniel
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Nudge bar

RSR wrote:

Mine are good since i have replaced the original globes with Philips X-treme vision plus 100 H4 globes, led park light globes and also a set of HID spotties always helps.

 

Hey RSR. love that bar youve got yourself there. who makes it? im pretty keen to get myself one...

CHECK OUT MY BUILD  VVV
http://www.pajerio.com/forum/daniels-io

fordem
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Just so that you're aware of it

If you're an off roader, be warned, that style of bar will dramatically reduce your angle of attack - anything that wraps from underneath under the front bumper will do that.

RSR
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G'day The bar itself is no

G'day

The bar itself is no lower than the two tow points and as it is mounted quite high has not adversly affected the angle of attack, I probably should have taken a better photo.

Claude io
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approach/attack angle

Yes they look to be at about the same level that the hooks but I think that the bar is further in front of the car, and because of that you might have lost a bit of this angle. This said, even if it is, it doesn't make it a bad investment, and they do look great.

Happy io.

RSR
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G'day Parkside Towbars in

G'day

Parkside Towbars in Perth made the nudge bar and they also make a roo bar that replaces the front bumper, all air bag compatable etc.

Refer link for more info -

http://www.parksidetowbars.com.au/ 

 

Claude io
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I took the plunge too!

I bought the new Philips X-tremeVision and I just put them on. My understanding is that they do not have the lifespan of the standard one....at that stage....I don't care!!! lol

I took some pictures, they have been taken at the same spot, 10 to 15 minutes apart, on a tripod that was on the roof and did not move at all, engine running.

I let you judge.....

Happy io

Low beam old

 

Low beam new

 

High beam old

 

High beam new

 

fordem
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Need some captions on those pictures there Claude

Let's see - first two are low beam, second two are high beam - #1 is stock low beam, #2 is Philips low beam - #3 is stock high beam, #4 is Philips high beam.

Or first two are stock, #1 is low beam, #2 is high beam, second two are Philips, #3 is low beam, #4 is high beam

Maybe I should get a pair of them Philips XtremeVision - either those bulbs or those headlamps put mine to shame, and I have the Sylvania SilverStar Ultras in mine.

Claude io
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captions

Sorry, I just put the caption...your first guess is right. The bigger difference is in the low beam, and the light is way brighter (same wattage, 60/55w). 

Happy io.

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