1999 Mitsubishi Pajero IO 1.8L 5-Door Automatic
Up for sale is my 1999 Mitsubishi Pajero IO. It does not have one straight panel on it (thanks to endless trailblazing), engine has blown and runs on 3 cylinders (driving back on the highway one day and boom, no more 4 banger), everything else is mechanically fine. I'm not really wanting to sell, but I also don't want to spend a fortune putting in another engine. I kinda want to get a new 4g93 engine, or a 4g96 from an Outlander and throw that back in. So if anyone else can help me out on that front I would appreciate that too!! you can reach me at herbiecongram@hotmail.com or by sending me a text or calling me on 0432638885
I'm located on the Gold
I'm located on the Gold Coast. I've actually seen your videos on YouTube and that got me more relaxed with using my pajero for 4wding. I uploaded my first ever experience 4wding in it https://
eventually it got very much more muddy and way more fun.
lol
lol, what a presentation !!! I am glad that my video help ...getting a bit more relaxed!. With your skill on video presentation, I cannot wait to see the next one !!!
What have you done regarding your engine going on 3 cylinders? How many kms does it have?
Happy io
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You could have several problem with the engine, some are much cheaper than other to fix. Check and adjust the oil level. Since it start running like this does it make strange internal noise ? Often it is the electrical not working properly. A compression test could tell a bit more but I would start by checking the spark plug. If you are not sure what to look for when they are out, take a picture and post it here....
If you don't have much mechanical knowledge, taking it to the shop for a quote and check up could be a idea.
How would you describe what the engine does....missing all the time ? missing mostly under power (like going up hill) ? other.
160000kms is not that much for these, if they have been serviced and not pushed too hard that is.
Happy io
I went mud bogging, didnt get
I went mud bogging, didnt get any water in the engine, but since then a Hydarulic lifter head flattened and made the engine tick. I think it is the fuel pump to be honest that caused the main issue, because whenever i went to stop the engine, the fuel pump would make a noise. It doesnt even have enough power to make it up a small hill, like im talking a slight gradient, something like 10 degrees, when it used to sprint up 50-60 degree slopes
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Engine noise can be a lot of thing, if it happen just after reving the car you could have a damaged valve, bearing? or other, hard to say..... I would still check the spark plug (no cost!) And yes the fuel could be another option.... Do you now if the fuel filter have been replaced ?
If the missing problem happen at the same time that the ticking noise, I would search that way...
Maybe do a video with the noise....
Happy io
Like i said, I don't really
Like i said, I don't really want to sell. Not a single straight panel on it, rust on the chassis parts. It was a gift to me from my uncle, used to be his work vehicle and was sitting outside in sydney weather for almost a decade, so its not too good looking
I would say this my friend, I
I would say this my friend, I am no way a skilled person at this stuff, however you could plug an ecu reader into your odb port, this may give you an idea about what is not working.
This would at least rule out electronic failure
is the car an mpi engine, If so i am sure that i read up the car can actually turn off a cylinder when it wants to :) this may be worth looking into.
Sorry i could not offer more help but i am a novice who would rather give some idea than see the post and ignore your issue :)
Thanks
compression test it
call into a super-cheap auto and pick up:
1) spark plug spanner ($12)
2) compression tester ($15)
pull all the plugs and have a look at the plug tip color, the dead cylinder should be obvious odd one out, likely black or corroded
run a compression test on all cylinders - all should be approx 180PSI, then put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and re-test. should be slightly higher and even,
if not then you've got a valve problem.
that's about 30mins of diagnosis that will help you.
if the compresson is good then swap the front and back coil packs and re-assemble - this will pick whether you have a crap spark from a coil.
I'm on Tamborine Mountain and happy to help but flat out at present - likely free after the 13th.
I changed all spark plugs,
I changed all spark plugs, the 3rd one was absolutely rooted. Also cleaned the throttle body because that was caked in carbon and gunk, replaced the gasket. But the ticking is persistent and I'm thinking a rod is bent. Here is the video I took of the engine this morning https://youtu.be/3ObRMPEjTHs
bad bad knock
yep that's a bad knock. does not sound like a lifter.
open the oil cap and you can tell if it is a lifter as the noise sounds like it's coming directly out the fill hole
compression test the bad cylinder - my vote is a big-end or a broken rocker. either is repairable but frankly given the fact you can pick up a 1.8 or 2.0L lancer engine for around $350 i'd just get a new engine then swap the head etc over along with the anciliaries - would be a good time to do the rear main etc.
paj io heads are different to lancer heads - will need to swap the head so good time to get it crack tested and repaired etc.
you _can_ modify a lancer head to match a paj io but the head place would need to do it.
th 1.8L don't tend to bend rods anywhere as easily as the 2.0L engines.
get 2nd/3rd opinion...
I changed all spark plugs, the 3rd one was absolutely rooted. Also cleaned the throttle body because that was caked in carbon and gunk, replaced the gasket.
do you have any pics of the old spark plugs? if you still have them, can you take photos of the center electrode and whole body of the spark plug? especially the worst one
But the ticking is persistent and I'm thinking a rod is bent. Here is the video I took of the engine this morning https://youtu.be/3ObRMPEjTHs
I dont think its bent rod, as it'll provide alot of vibration on the engine while its running. what i heard was like the rocker had fallen off or something.. or possibly has a big gap and causing it to tap..
does the ticking go faster as you rev it?
Don't really feel like putting a fwd engine in. I'd rather just repair or replace the broken parts in this engine. Not going to be my daily so it doesn't have to that reliable
nothing's wrong with the engines from the FWD model, all you need to change are the ancillaries - water pipe, waterpump assembly, alternator, bracket, a/c bracket, ps bracket, possibly the cam shaft sensor housing and the sensor itself as it may be different.
From what I've gathered, the block is totally the same, differences are what's attached to the block :D
I wouldn't mind having a look at this, just that Ive got plans tomorrow already
Ok, so, I do have a few
Ok, so, I do have a few pictures I took throughout the day. Yes the ticking gets louder and faster when I rev it. Sometimes The engine will not self idle, and just shut off, sometimes, like the video, it will idle by itself. And everything attached to the engine, having to change, just sounds like too much work when I could just buy another 4g93 io engine for a few hundred more. I'd still basically be doing an engine swap either way.
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I changed all spark plugs, the 3rd one was absolutely rooted. Also cleaned the throttle body because that was caked in carbon and gunk, replaced the gasket. But the ticking is persistent and I'm thinking a rod is bent. Here is the video I took of the engine this morning https://youtu.be/3ObRMPEjTHs
First thought,....R.I.P.....
Fully agree with Bob. I will add, you do have some tools and don't seems to be scare to use them....good!!. Pull the rocker cover out for a visual check, or try to do that compression test before. ...This said a damaged bearing shouldn't have that much effect on power ( as you mentioned before, no power going up hill) ....Maybe you have more than one problem ???
In some case, at start up, the noise of the bearing could be less than with the engine warm (oil thickness helping damping the noise a bit when cold).
If you can find a complete good io engine for $350, it is a bargain !
Happy io
Actually no, the time that
Actually no, the time that the engine stopped I was heading back from uni on the highway, it wasn't getting too hot, just in the optimal range for the engine, just cruising along and then all of a sudden I feel a little shudder and then the ticking got louder and then the loss of power then it stopped all together. The original ticking was a hydraulic lifter head, I did push it a bit hard during a mid bogging session, but that was months ago.
Alright so final prognosis is
Alright so final prognosis is that there is a big end bearing that has slipped. Rather than replace the bearing and maybe repairing or replacing things like crankshaft and rods etc. I am going to just replace the engine. Which brings me to my next question. I could exchange the working parts with another 4g93. Or I could go with a 4g69 from an outlander. What other engines would mate with the engine bay in the io, or the gearbox etc..
double check the difference between Lancer and IO hardwares...
4g69 /64 /63 are totally incompatiable
They aren't incompatible, I've seen it done, but theres a lot of fab work. the gearbox, engine, driveshaft, ecu, bulkhead, engine bay have to be changed and modified to fit the 69 from an early outlander
just looked at my mirage's 4G93 sohc and the 1 thing I dont see is the coolant outlet that is in front (or beside - whichever way you look at it) of the plenum.. the one that connects to the top radiator's inlet..
i dont see any blanking pipe or so one, I guess what you'll need to do is either get a good condition 4G94 bottom end and use your 4G93's cylinder head..
unfortunately down side is that you'll have to spend more that what you want, regardless of which way you go.
4g94
Sorry dude - unique name!
the lancer engine swap sounds like a plan! you will need an io 4g94 head as the water ports are in different spots compared to a lancer 4g94 however not impossible, (rad top hose exits front left on an io and back right on a lancer)
also the 4G94 is a slightly different engine sensor-wise so your ecu might spit-it when you fire up, also the 4G94 ecu will be looking for other chassis sensors that the earlyio's don't have so it might also get cranky.
you can graft anything to anything with a band-saw and a tig, the 4g6 series won't bolt to the 4g9 series without major changes, the 6a1 series will, but the engine anciliaries would eat heavily into the io firewall making it again stupid hard.
i'm expecting my engine will last me until mid next year when i'll retire it for some TLC - already looking at engine and driveline changes but other projects at present.
i'd def be happy to give you a hand but i'm going to be flat out until july/aug at the earliest and moderatly busy until october.
the PDF manuals area goldmine - everything you need is in there!!
Still, wont be going with the
Still, wont be going with the 4g6 series anyway. Heading to the 4g94, will swap over the cylinder heads and other parts i need from my 93 that works and have to be swapped over. But everything should bolt in once swapped, and the ecu and other sensors might need recalibration as i would have expected
engine swap
If you go for the 4g94 from a lancer and need some part that are unique to the io 4g94 let me know. I have wrecked a complete 2 litre io, I have a complete 4g94 engine. I suspect that it does have a blown head gasket or even a cracked head (white smoke when warm) so it cannot be sold as a reliable engine swap but plenty of good parts if needed.
I would try to estimate the total cost of replacing the engine before starting, if the body is crap it might not be worth doing.
Happy io
rebuild ya donk bro
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Engine-Rebuild-Kit-Bolts-Fits-97-02-Mitsubish...
pull ya engine - strip it down and do a quick rebuild - probably around $250 worth of machining to clean the block and crank etc up then an easy rebuild from there.
I'm doing the same but adding K1 forged rods #becauseracecar
Nah, for less than a hundred
Nah, for less than a hundred more, im gunna go with the 4g94, more power and torque than me 1.8L, and most of my 4g93 engine is fine, its just that one bearing thats caused all my problems. So many of the things that have to be swapped over will be in perfect working order.
engine swap
Nah, for less than a hundred more, im gunna go with the 4g94, more power and torque than me 1.8L, and most of my 4g93 engine is fine, its just that one bearing thats caused all my problems. So many of the things that have to be swapped over will be in perfect working order.
So, engine swap for less than $350....if you get a good engine that will be fine but if you get something that have not been looked after, the same thing could happen at 160000kms ! one thing to be careful is if you get that engine with some limited warranty, once you open it (you will have too to swap the sump, I think that you have to swap them!) the warranty could be lost. This said if all goes well $350, for me at least, is very very good value.
I have read somewhere on a Lancer forum I think, that some have fitted the 4g93 head on a 4g94 block to gain...whatever (forgot !!!).
Let us know how you go, I have heard of some doing it (the swap with a Lancer engine) but without any details.
Happy io
Yeh it's done 140,000 kms,
Yeh it's done 140,000 kms, has no rattles or blue smoke. I'll ask to see it running in the lancer before I wrench it out. And I'll inspect for faults. Yeh it has a 3 month warranty on it so I think that will be lost if I start swapping parts. But I'll inquire nonetheless
4g93 head on a 4g94
two issues will be compression increase and _i think_ timing belt won't fit as the deck height is different however I could be wrong.
you may be able to easliy convert the existing 4g94 lancer head to an io head.
4G94 and 4G93 both have 10:1 compression
the 2L will have a 200cc combustion chamber volume and the 1.8 will have 180cc
swap them around and you'll get 11.11:1 which is too high for most petrol - 10.5:1 is the highest i'd build for 98 octane
the GDI runs 11:1 compression but uses the fuel atomisation to cool the charge and also has a very advanced anti-ping system.
a turbo decompression head gasket could work to assist with reducing the compression and should be fairly easy to source
4G93/94 Differences
two issues will be compression increase and _i think_ timing belt won't fit as the deck height is different however I could be wrong.
you may be able to easliy convert the existing 4g94 lancer head to an io head.
4G94 and 4G93 both have 10:1 compression
the 2L will have a 200cc combustion chamber volume and the 1.8 will have 180cc
swap them around and you'll get 11.11:1 which is too high for most petrol - 10.5:1 is the highest i'd build for 98 octane
the GDI runs 11:1 compression but uses the fuel atomisation to cool the charge and also has a very advanced anti-ping system.
a turbo decompression head gasket could work to assist with reducing the compression and should be fairly easy to source
just few things to add,
from what I could tell cylinder head from either model are the same, same overall height, valve and springs lenghts. Im talking about this in lancer owner's point of view, in saying that the IO models should also be the same. Only big difference I know of between the 2 are the block's height and conrod's length (4G93 - 89mm and 4G94 - 95.8mm stroke) and not forgetting the camshaft..
as far as I remember both MPI engine models have compression ratio of 9.5:1 GDi being 11:1 which is same as the Mivec models
let me know when you're about to strip things, I'll bring my turbo manifold and TD04 to see if it'll fit :D
Syndicate
welcome
Welcome to the forum, where are you located ?
Happy io
My io is now SOLD Thankshttp://pajerio.com/forum/claudes-io-2002-zr-built-thread-onlyhappy-io