Body lift.
ahhh - not so fast.
One of the advantages of a body lift is that you get the clearance you need for larger rubber without having to deal with the drive line angles - the discussions and pictures I've seen don't drop just the front diff but the front crossmember and with it the diff, steering rack and the engine - BUT I have not seen anyone mention the need to drop the transmission cross-member.
You remove a problem with front axle CV angles and possibly create a different one with drive shaft angles - as the front of the power train comes down, the back of the power train is going up.
drive shaft
Agree with you on that one. I think Bob (may be someone else?) mentioned something about that with a former 4wd (Lada?), and slightly changed the angle of the front diff to remove most of the vibration that this angle did create. As I said before, most modifications, will bring another...
Happy io.
strut spacer
With dropping the struts down using a spacer, is there any issues with this? I was just thinking that it might change the angle of things and might do damage? Not really sure so I thought I would ask.
Also, who would make such a thing, any particular company worth asking?
Spacer
It is an option if you can find one or get it made to fit.
I don't know about the rules where you are but here it's a modification that would need to be checked and certified. One consideration is that while it gives you lift, it's not going to improve your wheel clearance and allow for larger tyres - this is why it's not how I would go about adding lift, but maybe you don't care about that. It will change your camber by about half a degree (more positive).
Lift
I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of KYB 334405s for the front - I've had a price from a local shock shop that is too good to be true and so I'm asking him to double check the part number and price before I order. The price quoted is $372 for the pair which is around $290 aussie/US. This is fully AU/US$100 less than the previous quote I'd got.
Update: one hour later he's confirmed the price, so I've put my order in. Should be in the shop tomorrow he says.
Front strut
Hello there,
It is a very good price:), take your tape with you at pick-up time! This said the price "should" be the same for one or the other (short or long)
I have seen you posting for the ford/mazda spring, it is good to know, I wonder if the front have some twin brother somewhere!
Once you got these on with your new tyre you will have a big smile...and a better 4x4.
Happy io
new strut
It will be good to see what will happen if you are using your spring. The spring pan being higher than the original one, your spring should give you a 25mm lift. In order to have the same height, I think that the strut with the higher spring pan have a smaller spring that the strut with the lower spring pan. It might be good but it might not be "ie" is the strut insert longer as well? you may have to reset the original spring to remove the 25mm. It is unknown territory for me :(.
All the best for the festive season,
Happy io
We will see
Singlecell - I'm getting them from a place called the Shock Shop in Porirua (near Wellington, NZ). I have no idea why their price is so much cheaper than two others I got - maybe they are getting grey imports (ie not from the official wholesaler here). Car part prices in NZ are often ridiculously high because the company with the sole agency takes a huge margin, particularly when its for parts that are too heavy to buy overseas and ship in by courier.
For other questions, including yours Claud, yes there is a fair bit of unknown in this but you can only go so far with working this stuff out on paper given the gaps in our knowledge of specs before you have to take a plunge. I will report back with some pics and measurements of the shocks and news of what happens with fitment - probably late this week or in the weekend.
Don
Alternative strut spacer
Hello guys,
Being a member for a while I read about all the types of lift (pro's and con's) the people try and one thing that came alight is that the easiest way is to lift your front suspenion is to put a spacer in between the strut top plate and the body right? Has anybody ever thought of doing it this way? Whats your input on this? Pro's & Con's? let me know
Interesting...
Wouldn't that bring the mounting flange into contact with the tire?
From memory (it's wet outside, so I'm not particularly inclined to go look under the car), there's not much more than a finger's clearance (say 10~15mm) between the body of the strut and the inner side wall of the tire, and the mounting flanges protrude perhaps30~35mm.
strut lift
I wondered about fabricating something like this when I was doing my lift and spoke to an engineer friend who also works for the "low volume vehicle" body here that manages the standards around mods. His feeling was that it would not be likely to be certifiable, and seeing as it's so obvious at inspection time I dropped the idea there, but if it works for your local certifiers I think it's a nice simple way to get lift.
Yeah it would
CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG
but i thin doing it this way would also raise the spring pan, allowing you to also fit larger tyres???
Yeah it would Daniel, but as the poster above has mentioned, the lower strut mount sits out futher than the strut tube which would put it way too close, if not touch, the inside of your tyre.
Have a look at my pic showing how close it already sits.
Fab.
Mounting flange...
Wouldn't that bring the mounting flange into contact with the tire?
From memory (it's wet outside, so I'm not particularly inclined to go look under the car), there's not much more than a finger's clearance (say 10~15mm) between the body of the strut and the inner side wall of the tire, and the mounting flanges protrude perhaps30~35mm.
I got the same doubt...
Pajero TR4 (Brazil) has the same problem, and lifting the spring pan would be a nice solution... but the mounting flange is much wider than the space between the shock and the tyre...
Syndicate
body lift
sorry to be a downer on a friday but a "body lift" i.e. space body up off chasis with nylon blocks cannot be done to the io as the chassis is intergral in the body.
best you can do is a front "diff-drop" using solid aluminium billets or steel fab'ed spacers to lower the suspension down from the body (need to space strut tops down too or do the koni strut lengthen mod) - see the diff drop threads or use a translater and look on pajeroclub.gr
with the front dropped you can then look at spacing the rear spring down with a nylon block and buying a longer shock. there are some rad kits for the pajero mini that spaces all suspension mounts down with ally frames but looks a bit too soft for the weight of the pajero.
pajero mini lift:
http://www.monkys.jp/e/wp/1995-jdm-mitsubishi-pajero-mini-modified-h56a-660cc-kei-4x4-for-sale-canada-uk-netherlands-germany-philipines-from-japan-monkys-inc-japan/12/10/2009/
don't try lane changes too quickly!
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