Cam belt 1.8 gdi
Nothing is mandatory...
But, given the fact that a leaking seal will destroy a brand new belt, as will a failed pulley, and given the cost of the parts and the fact that you have to remove the belt to reach them, you get to choose if you want to pay the labor charges once or twice - roll the dice - do you feel lucky?
These parts are sold in kits because they are commonly replaced as a set, and they are commonly replaced as a set because it's the most cost effective approach.
Yeah, i buyed a gates kit
Yeah, i buyed a gates kit (belt, pulleys and water pump) but i not realized that is neccesary to replace the seals, in the manual didn't mention this is necessary when doing the timing belt change.
Are special tools required for replace both seals? Hope the seals are used in some hyundai engine... (to buy at local spare parts store cheap and quickly).
For the 1.8 GDI engine ...
Do you have any seal supply specialists who can supply the seals based on the dimensions - the crank seal dimensions are 37 x 50 x 6 and the cam seal dimensions are 35 x 50 x 8, and you'll need two cam seals - the seals can be replaced without special tools.
It's not a "hard & fast" rule that the seals HAVE to be changed when the belt is done, it's more a matter of it makes sense to replace them whilst you have the front of the engine apart, they are inexpensive, and if they do fail the leaking oil contaminates the belt and shortens it's life.
Bob - did you do the work yourself?
Cost it out - tell me whether the labor costs involved are more or less than the cost of the seal - the point behind replacing the seal is to avoid the cost of having to go in there again.
Earlier this year I had to replace an o-ring behind the oil pump - I paid through the nose for a genuine Mitsubishi o-ring in order to be sure I would get the correct part - part cost approx USD$20 and the labor to get in there was almost USD$400 - and yes, since I had to strip the front of the engine I replaced all the seals even though they were a few months old at most.
seal
I went to the mechanic and questioned him about the topic (seals) he didn't recommend to change the seals because the original seals are made to last long (he tell me that is pretty rare a japanese car with that kind of problem)
Then he will be happy to give you a warranty of 100000kms (the life of the belt) that they will not leak.
Happy io
costing on replacing seal
belt 1 - time to fit seal 25mins (not done)
belt 2 - time to fit seal 25mins (not done)
belt 3 - time to fit seal 25mins (not done)
leak
pull belt/reinstall belt - 45mins
fit seal - 25mins
so I basically broke even with time and used the seal from an earlier kit
Thanks for the info so far. I
Thanks for the info so far.
I know from other vehicles and what you say changing the water pump is best. A stupid design idea (the old way, a broken fan belt is cheap/easy to replace with no engine damage resulting).
How do I lock the pulleys to stop movement? Is cutting the belt down the centre, leaving half on, to keep alignment a viable option?
And checking tension accurately at the end?
I use continental as they are
I use continental as they are an OE maker for belts. Maybe they advise.
As an aside, the pinin goes well up to 80mph but then feels like it hits a wall-ie not much left at all.
There's no 4wd lights on, I thought maybe something was still engaged. Like the freewheel clutch.
As am not supposed to do that speed unless am in Germany it's not a major issue. But it is weird as everything else works and it accelerates like a good un.
Ideas please? !
Ps some old mot brake test machines cannot cope with permanent 4wd-a Tapley metre is used instead. If something is still engaged it won't be good. My boss stuck a vw on, the rear wheels hopped about like crazy...
Syndicate
Idler & tensioner pulleys
Dont wait to change the cam belt - if it fails you'll be looking for a "new" engine - change the idler & tensioner pulleys, along with the crank & cam seals when you do the cam belt, and get good quality parts.