DIY timing belt 4G94
Hi Guys,
timing belt replacement for my 4g94 - used Dayco kit KTBA225P (includes water pump, crankshaft and camshaft seals) $300 from local parts shop. I've seen the belts for $55 on ebay and pumps for around $130 but not together, and given effort vs saving I was happy to buy the kit knowing there is probably a good $40 markup.
This is an easy job - nothing you cannot achieve with a good sunny day and some good sockets - I didn't rush this and listed the times so you can see how I went.
10:00 remove underbody plate
10:13 disconnect top, bottom and overflow radiator hoses and dump coolant, remove air intake horn, remove both fan control harnesses and carefully pull radiator out. The fan plug on the drivers side is a pain, press the grey center section IN while gently tapping the grey plug off the motor.
10:30 remove accessory belts by backing off the tensioners, it is worth fully disconnecting the top alternator tensioner now
10:40 unbolt and remove timing belt upper cover and rotate engine to align timing marks both on the crank and cam sprocket (only ever rotate clockwise on crank)
10:50 remove alternator brace, power steering pump brace and front accessory mount, this will slide up and out from behind the crank angle sensor stem.
11:00 crank pully: my air impact gun wouldn't fit between the crank and my AC radiator so I tried the dodgy method (don't try this unless you know what you are doing and are happy to run the risk of serious shit going wrong)
I braced a breaker bar off the front chassis and poped the starter motor, tiny little pip on the starter motor and a crack on the crank nut - success! engine moved about 120deg so gently rotated forwards gently to re-align marks.
I braced a breaker bar off the front chassis and poped the starter motor, tiny little pip on the starter motor and a crack on the crank nut - success! engine moved about 120deg so gently rotated forwards gently to re-align marks.
eased crank pully off by "walking it" between my hand and a crow bar braced off oilfilter housing.
11:20 remove lower timing cover - be careful as the bolt holes in the cover are probably split
11:30 grip idler side of tensioner spring with vice grips and gently remove from idler arm and remove. Back off tensioner idler and remove, remove belt (WOOO!)
11:40 remove water pump, one of the bolts is hidden next to the AC compressor and needs a thin-wall socket, also you need to remove a sheet metal timing cover above the water pump, one of my bolts next to the cam wheel was siexed so I gently bent the sheet metal away to remove the water pump.
I chose not to replace the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals, lots of work and without any sockets big enough to brace the seal (and room to swing against them) I have left it for now.
(Lunch):
1:00 refit new water pump with non-hardening sealant and gasget
1:25 refit new idler pully and belt
And then I find that the dayco suplied belt is the wrong one, should have been 94285, it was a 94287
bugger!
until next week....
Thanks for the write up...
and especially the pictures - I have to do mine soon, but even though it's different (I have the DOHC 4G93), seeing your pictures helps - I have a "weeping" crank oil seal, just enough of a leak to leave radial traces across the front of the oil pan, but not enough yet to start leaving marks on the drive way.
I have the seal, I'm trying to track down the belt & tensioners now.
thanks
Nice write up, I liked the starter motor trick ...lol...!!
While this work seems easy, I would advice the "novice" to stay away from doing this...some costly pitfall....
Happy io
yes and no - if you are careful and understand things like "how not to round off a bolt head" etc it is actually pretty straight forward - the hard part is ususally the tensioner and it is the easiest i've ever encountered - the DOHC model is hard hard hard on the tensioner as it is an oil-filled spring unit - needs to be clamped in the vice and pinned with a 2mm allen key.
i'm not sure how i'll hold the crank pully to re-torque it however in gear and handbrake on seems to work to hold the engine still.
belt due in tuesday - will complete then.
Ahhhh forum!
Brilliant work Bob! This will be a great guide to work from when 200k comes along.
From the looks of things you will have it 100% down pat by then and will have no trouble at all doing mine for me! 
:P
jokes hahaha! It's too bad about having to wait for the right parts, we all know that feeling!!
timing belt finished!
Replacement correct belt arrived from Dayco,
8:15pm fit belt, check alignment (back turn cam sprocket 90deg, forward turn crank 90deg) release tensioner and forward crank 2 revolutions - check alignment, torque tensioner bolt.
fit acessory frame and hand tighten, fit bottom timing cover and torque (7ftlbs)
8:41 fit crank pully, dot of 262 stud lock on bolt and torque to 134ftlbs!! clutch out and in 4th held well enough
8:48 connect crank sensor
8:50 alternator and power steer brace fit and torque 36 ftlbs, fit and tension alternator belts
9:14 upper timing cover and check and start motor - wooo! it works
9:25 fit radiator and flush coolant
9:45 fill radiator, attach air horn -
10:00 finished
under 2 hours to fit belt isn't bad, now that I've done it I recon you could do it in half the time
Dayco mistake....seriously
[quote=bob_oz]
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and then I find that the dayco suplied belt is the wrong one, should have been 94285, it was a 94287
bugger!
until next week....
Guess what,
I bought the same kit on ebay.....SAME PROBLEM (really the same kit !!) the belt in the box is the 94287, while they do list as the 94285 being in the box !!!
Seriously, this is a joke !!!
I just got the kit today. Lucky I remembered your posting and I thought that I will check but I didn't expect the same problem.
I have send an email to Dayco about this. This job is not the easier work, having the wrong part supplied doesn't help.
Happy io
timing belt kit
The timing belt kit is getting sorted and I should get a replacement send by Dayco directly. The kit KTBA225P is now supeseded and it is replaced by the KTBA195P that was already listed for the lancer with the same engine.
It might be wise to stay away from the KTBA225P, only 2 of us got the wrong belt, but no point trying to get a third one !!
I have removed the old belt, and I noticed that the old Mitsubishi water pump does not have a gasket while the replacement come with a thin paper one. Should I use this gasket....or should I not use it ?? I am not sure what to do and I tend to not want to use it but if someone have some comment about this....please let me know.
Happy io
Dayco timing belt kit for pajero io 2 litre 4G94
Dayco have send me a full replacement kit KTBA195P and a new thermostat (with gasket) as well :)
Once contact was made with David from Dayco, he have been very helpful to solve this problem (wrong belt ). Again the old KTBA225P no longet exist and it might be wise to not buy it, they might be ok but they might not be. I understood that seller on ebay are not authorised seller and some problem have arrised from people swapping content from the Dayco kit.
Since I am doing the same work I might complement Bob DIY, that I have used too.
Happy io
I don't put too much emphasis on counting teeth.
Let's start with - which engine do you have 1.8 or 2.0? For the 1.8 it should be 121 teeth, for the 2.0, 159 teeth.
Now - tooth count is a quick & easy way to confirm you have the correct belt, but it is not the deciding factor to be considered when selecting or purchasing a belt - I recently took the timing belt off of my 1.8 GDI engine to a belt specialist, they asked me what vehicle, and how many teeth, I told them, and they went off & came back with a belt for a different Mitsubishi with a matching tooth count - and it was wider & longer, than the one I was holding - they then took my belt and counted the teeth themselves - they could not understand why the two belts were so different - I knew the answer, and in fact, had known it, before I walked in the door - the belt they had was for a V6 with single overhead cams, the one I had was for a double overhead cam, inline 4 - theirs was longer and had a different tooth pitch.
I have also seen a particular Suzuki application where the engine can take either an 89 or a 90 tooth belt - either one works - all that matters is that the tooth pitch & profile match and the length be close enough that the tensioner mechanism can correctly set the tension.
Edit ...
Sorry the 159 tooth belt above is for the 2.0GDI engine, I don't have a tooth count for the 2.0 MPI engine
Thanks for that info
Thanks for that info FORDEM
She's got the 2.0mpi ohc.
i counted the teeth on the belt, - 121 teeth. It appears to me that the 1.8 and 2.0 4g93 and 4g94 mpi ohc engines uses the same timing belt - correct me if i'm wrong...
Here in S.A most spares shops don't list the 2.0 iO mostly 1.6 and 1.8
Also having no luck with water pumps that they keep in stock but they can order.
Parts is available @ the stealers but pricey though...
85 Auzie Dollars for the belt by the agents
Ebay searches
Ebay & other searches show the 4G94 SOHC engine as taking a 121 tooth belt, this however differs with what Claude has mentioned above, and my 4G93 DOHC engine takes a 154 tooth belt, 5 teeth less than the 159 tooth belt required by the 4G94 DOHC engine, is it a mere co-incidence that Claude is also describing a 5 tooth difference due to what is probably a different length block?
As I indicated earlier, the actual tooth count is not critical, but a 5 tooth difference is a lot.
Faced with a very similar quandary I ordered my belt from the dealer, and ended up paying a ridiculous price because some bright spark air freighted it from Japan.
timing belt kit
I exchanged a few email with Dayco in 08/2015 about the kit KTBA225P having the wrong timing belt into it. After some complaining I was send another complete kit, that fitted, at the time but they also said that the mistake was from ebay seller swapping belt in the kit they sell ! to me that was a lot of crap ! Anyway, I have to replace the timing belt on a 4g94 and the KTBA225P is no longer for sale or listed by Dayco but you still can find the kit on ebay, I would say that it is old stock and that they may have the wrong belt into those kit....so if you buy one of those check that the belt is 94285 and not 94287.
Now, since I am a bit worry about getting a kit that properly fit as anyone tried the gates or other brand ? maybe a ref to give me ?
Thanks
Happy io
timing belt kit
As anyone tried this kit ?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GATES-TIMING-BELT-Water-Pump-KIT-MITSUBISHI-...
timing belt
Ok, I have confirmation that the kit for the 4G94, KTBA225P is no longer made/sold by Dayco since 2015 !!, no explain to why but chances are that the existing kits that are still around have the wrong belt and will not be back up by Dayco. The new kit by Dayco for this engine is not listed on many listing but it does exist and it is.....KTBA....
Happy io
Timing belt ref
I just finished to fit the timing belt kit, having done it 3 time before does help !
The new ref for the io 4G94 MPI engine is KTBA195P, do not buy the KTBA225P as they are old stock that Dayco cancelled the ref as some, if not all, have the wrong belt in the kit.
I got my kit from ebay at $203...full kit.
Happy io
Thanks for all the useful
Thanks for all the useful comments.
The two uk Mitsubishi dealers wanted about £1000 for the belt change. 2000yr model.
Obviously they don't want the business and prefer if you go elsewhere. Im Just saving your call time.
Most reputable workshops, 350 max.
The water pump was not included. On any car which this is cambelt driven I'd consider it precautionary. Fair enough it's not a common problem, but failure destroys the belt. And engine.
Syndicate
fuuu
And then I find that the dayco suplied belt is the wrong one, should have been 94285, it was a 94287
What a punch in the balls after doing all that work!