Faults to look for when purchasing
Hey there,
Just joined to get some good inside info. Will no doubt be a reguar poster if I do end up buying the IO I'm looking at.
Have been searching for a small/swb 4x4 that will follow the big boys anywhere so have ruled out all the softroaders with no low range.
Have narrowed it down to a Suzuki Grand Vitara or a Pajero IO.
There is only 1 IO for sale within a reasonable distance at the moment but thankfully it is a 2002 ZR which seems to be the most popular model.
It only has 92 000kms on the clock so shouldn't be too much worn or wrong with it.
Still I just want to be sure and as it will be my Father looking at / buying the car to be ready for me when I move back to Oz I want to be able to tell him what to look out for.
So is there anything I should be especially cautious about with a vehicle of it's age?
I'd also love if some of the owners on here could be honest with me about the bad points of these cars and even what advantages you think they have over the Grand Vitara.
Any help would be hugely appreciated
what to look for....
As Bob said, check the battery holder, some rust have been seen. Check the light for the operation of the 4x4. As for any second hand car check the service history. This car have 92 000km it seems very low, check the driver seat for wear or even the carpet and brake pedal, with this low km it should be good.
Check for rust or any visual damages underbody (not particular to the io really).
92000km, next service will be a major one with timing belt included. Call Mitsubishi for cost and ask them for cost for the other service, some are around $600. I wouldn't say DIY for the timing belt, while easy for the mechanical minded people, BIG stuff up can be done with costly repair.....ask Joe King :)
That car doesn't have much problem that could be typical to it. While a very good 4x4, better than the Suzuki (my personal view, don't forget this is an io forum !) don't expect to be able to follow 6 inch or more lifted, modified Patrol or Landcruiser. This said with a few basic mod (see Bob thread above) you will do better than the light modified bigger car.
Check my video to see what it can do.....by the way, I just busted my right front CV.....
Happy io
Wow. Thanks for the
Wow.
Thanks for the extensive replies guys. Esp Bob that's really appreciated.
Good to hear there isn't too much to worry about. I'll pass the tips onto my old man for when he has a look tomorrow.
Pretty much sold on it tho. it looks a lot better than the Vitara and is more econimical as well.
Was getting excited about the range of bolt on engine mods that must be available because of the Lancer motor but after trawling thru this site it seems that it isn't that straight forward.
I've had a look at your build thread claude, but can't figure out how to use your post number links. wanted to check out you dyno results pre and post extractors.
Will let you know if i pick up the car. Unfortunately it willbe 6 weeks before I see it.
One word of caution
When testing the 4WD, try to avoid using the Lc positions (4HLc & 4LLc) on a hard surface - if you must test on a hard surface, do so in a straight line only so as to avoid drive train wind up & possible damage.
FWIW, I own both an iO (1.8 5 door) and a Grand Vitara (2.0 5 door), and I'd have to give the nod to the GV - fractionally larger and more comfortable and off road upgrades are more easily available - and Bob, on the GV, I can also shift from 2H to 4H "on-the-fly" at speeds up to 100kmh - I don't know why I would want to, but it is permitted.
About the only advantage I can think of that the iO has over the GV - you can run 4H on the road (if you feel the need) and, at least with stock suspension, the iO has a softer ride allowing you to traverse an undulating surface at a higher speed - the front springs are the largest diameter coils I have seen, allowing a softer wire to be used to achieve the same spring rate and this allows the suspension to just soak up the bumps - on the same surface the GV will pitch and toss you from side to side - at least mine does - but then I'm no longer running stock suspension on the GV.
Other than that, they're pretty evenly matched - and both have the same limitations when compared to larger vehicles.
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performance
Wow.
Thanks for the extensive replies guys. Esp Bob that's really appreciated.
Good to hear there isn't too much to worry about. I'll pass the tips onto my old man for when he has a look tomorrow.
Pretty much sold on it tho. it looks a lot better than the Vitara and is more econimical as well.
Was getting excited about the range of bolt on engine mods that must be available because of the Lancer motor but after trawling thru this site it seems that it isn't that straight forward.
no worries, it is a 4G94 engine so performance cams etc will bolt on, you can get extractors and if you are in WA you can get your throttlebody and inlet bored out but most guys havn't bothered - exhaust and headers are heaps. One guy here races a turbo 1.8L rally Io with success.
I am still toying with the idea of a 7psi supercharger but with over 200,000 on the clock probably in my next engine.
One thing you won't find easily at all are after market 4wd accessories: bullbar / winches / rock bars / etc.
The 2002 ZR's are airbag vehicles and almost no-one makes bars for an Io, let alone airbag compliant ones. I have a "figure 8" tube bar and some guys have tube nudge bars - you won't find any winch bars for an Io - same goes for snorkels, there are some in south america but none here in OZ.
Looking at a group-buy on long-range tanks in the next few months, should be around $600.
I agree with claude, if you are not confident to pull off and change your alternator or any other engine accessory then don't try the timing belt, but on a scale of hardness I find pulling the radiator out is harder as the timing cover and all accessories are easily accessable from the front. Of all the timing belts I've done this is the easiest as there are no weird tensioners and you simply fit it, tension it and forget about it.
Bob
where abouts are you from? we have members in VIC, NSW, ACT, SA, WA and QLD
Thanks again guys, Yeah I'm
Thanks again guys,
Yeah I'm in wa. Well I will be again soon anyway. Keep the car quiet tho ;-) don't need any outside interest stopping the seller from dropping the price. Haha.
Does that spring lift need to be done before those tyres can be fitted?
It currently has 18 wheels with lower profile road tyres on which apparently rub on cornering. Don't ask me why.
Will be looking to change them asap.
Can't see it being too long before extractors become part of the set up. What about cpu upgrades/cold air ind?
rims offsets
the Io is fairly light, you can run most normal rims on it.
If you are running 18's I'd look at stacking them in the gararge or ebaying them for some 16's as it will give you more 4wd tyre options (and more sidewall!).
The standard io rims are 16" x 6" +48, I run 16" x 6.5" +38 from a mitsubishi FTO (free from an FTO forum).
Mid-era outlanders also have 16" x 6" +48 and 16" x 6.5" +38 rims in both steel or alloy but you'll need to hunt around for them.
As they are a 114.3 x 5 PDC your 18's will fit lancers etc and probably be quite saleable if you wanted to cash them in - be aware that 16" lancer rims are usually offset too far inwards to clear the front brake caliper.
Bad points & good points
Most "4x4 upgrades" that are avaliable to most are not avaliable to the iO. Having said that with only a Belly plate and mud tyres I have taken my iO where I really wouldn't recomend. I have drowned my iO in a bog hole, severally bent the gearbox cross member and smashed my rear bumper.
As long as your not looking for 3" of lift and 33"s then your looking at the right car.
Having said that you can easily lift the iO 1-2 inches and get some bigger shoes and get where you want too without too much trouble.
ZRs go hard for a little motor, the Manual revs higher at 110ks than the auto. But it likes to be revved. Trust me :P
I brought mine at 206,000kms at the start of the year and im up to 216,000. My engine see's the limiter pretty much every day..
Hope you get what your after :)
stop - it's hammer time
I brought mine at 206,000kms at the start of the year and im up to 216,000. My engine see's the limiter pretty much every day..
Hope you get what your after :)
..every time I look at my odometer being north of 200,000kms and hestiate, I think of you and mash the pedal to the metal >:D
Syndicate
io bad points
I was in the same situation i.e. wanted a small 4wd with good 4wd system etc. Went the Io as it was a better 4wd system and havn't looked back.
I would definitly buy a 4G94 2.0L ZR model if you can.if you are stuck with a 1.6L or a 1.8L i'd almost consider the vitara, but the V6 vitara isn't a great motor and is a bit too heavy for my liking. the 2.0L will still pull hard and cruise well at 120/kms - I get 10L/100 or under for 100km/h and around 11.3L/100 for 115km/h.
my io is a SWB 2002 ZR manual with 210,000kms on the clock. Owned it since 115,000 and have done a MASSIVLE amount of travel and 4wding. they are tough little cars and very comfortable on the road - mich nicer than jimneys and vitara's. I have fitted an ARB rear airlocker and this transformed the abilities of the io - it out performed every other vehicle except for two competition modified patrol SW wagons on a trip through a tassie 4wd track with a club - massive eye-opener!
many guys here also have autos and no issues with them either.
..and it is a massive luxuary having 2wd, and being able to engage 4wd on the fly at 110km/h with no hub locking etc :)
no major faults but lots of signs of not being care for.
things to look for:
* check under the battery for corrosion, also check the radiator support panel for corrosion as well - nothing terminal but worth knowing about and fixing with some kill-rust.
* if it has a towbar check under back of car - have a look at the two "loops" that come out of the rear chasis rail - they are only 1" in size and most townbar's use them as a secondary anchor - cracking tends to be seen around them if they towing capacity has been massivly exceeded but again it isn't terminal as the loops have a good 3/4" of weld up inside the rail. (mine cracked after towing around 2.7T)
* check by running fingers along inside lip of top of rear guard for debris - indication of what the car has been driven in.
* check for oil leaks on transfer box - and check transfer box for impact and torn / damaged wires on the transfer box. transfer box should be totally dry from oil - I push my io off road and it is totally clean.
* the 4wd indicator on the dash is a great health check - while driving cycle the io from 2wd right down into 4wd Lo Lock - the 4 green lights should be solid and the orange light should be lit when in low lock - when you cycle them back out they should quickly go back to being just rear wheels lit green - if the green and orange lights don't fully extinguish within 50m of driving with some side-to side turning you have a potential problem. If the vehicle has not used 4wd often it can get sticky in the box and cycling it a few times will help. (note - need to push stick DOWN and forward to go from 4wdH to 4wdHLC and 4wdLLc. this is not shown on the gearknob and is hard to figure out straight away.
* stick your finger up into one of the holes on underneath of the gearbox crossmember and see what you find inside i.e. red dirt / sand / mud / nothing. it is hard to clean this rail and it hides a good sample of the last terrain the vehicle was driven in. Beach sand would be a worry. also look for impacts.
* have a look at the fuel tank (each side of rear tailshaft) the protective covers dent really easily and will give an indication of if the vehicle has been driven on high-clearance 4wd tracks - again nothing terminal / mine is dented heavily from sticks/logs.
* put a trolly jack under the lower wishbone and lift each front wheel off the ground in turn. with the wheel off the ground by 10mm etc grab the front and rear of the wheel and give it a shake - any clear kocking or movement will show worn ball joints / rack ends, then grab the top and bottom of the wheel, again give it a shake and it will show wear in the wheel bearing.
* check oil and coolant for clarity and check inside of oil-fil cap for burnt flaky oil - sign of under filled / over heated. also check the seal where the top tank of the radiator joins the radiator core for coolant staining - the radiators can go at around 150,000kms but again it is an easy cheap fix.
* check lower rear swing arm bushes for wear - when parked on a level surface the center pin should be centered in the rubber bushing. the lower rear ones are the ones that flog out first.
aside from that the driveline is very strong, engine mounts are good. rocker cover gasget can weep some oil if thrashed too hard too long but again no biggie - just replace gasget and don't hammer it (by hammer I mean letting the rev-limiter cut in at each gear change & flat-shifting).
timing belt gets done every 100,000kms, it's a DIY item (see post on here) and gearbox / transfer oil gets dumped around 25,000kms intervals from memory and this is something I'd do yourself i.e.buy 5L of gear oil and do it at home.
These 4wd's excel off road as they are powerfull and light with great rear articulation. great on sand and rocky climbs.
Throw some 225/75-16 AT tyres on it and a pair of mazda astina front springs into the rear ($50 from wreckers) and a set of old-style io front springs in the front and you'll get a good 2" to 2.5" lift for next to not much.
They are no match for things where being phisically bigger is an advantage i.e.massive rock steps or deep bog holes - but then a vitara would be far worse.
good luck!
by the way - where are you from?
Bob
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