Fitting aftermarket keyless entry

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Anonymous
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Hi all,

Hoping someone can help me i'm having real trouble trying to fit an aftermarket remote entry system. problem being i dont know whether the locking system on the pinin is positive or negative lock, also which cables i should be connecting to.

I've allready had to replace the etacs unit and blown several fuses trying to work this one out and im gettin stressed with it now.

 

please, please can someone help

 

thanks Anthony

fordem
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Do you have a manual?

If you don't already have it - go to the resources section and download the manuals.

You need the chassis electrical section (#54) - the only place I would consider connecting an aftermarket entry system to this vehicle is to one of the "door lock switches" - it sounds like you are attempting to drive the lock motors directly - BIG mistake - unless you're prepared to take the ETACS out of the circuit.

I can probably check mine in the morning - but the driver's door, passenger door & rear door should all have lock cylinders with switches - usually a ground and an separate lines for lock & unlock - what I'm suggesting is that you use the aftermarket system to command the ETACS to lock/unlock the doors, rather than do it directly.  You might want to consider having the aftermarket system drive relays so that the ETACS sees contact closures rather than the output of the system.

fordem
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No joy

On my iO the central locking works from the driver's door only - unlike the other vehicles I have with power locks, where it works from the lock cylinder of any door - for the passenger door on any of the sedans, the key operates the central locking even though the inner lock release doesn't, and on my GV, the tailgate lock cylinder also operates the central locking.

I never took the time to investigate, I just assumed, that as on most used vehicles, there were minor faults, that I would one day get around to fixing - this thread prodded me into action, and I popped the inner shell off of the rear door - to discover the lock cylinder isn't wired to the ETACS, there is a motor to lock & unlock the door, but no switch to sense when the key is turned.

Going through the schematics last night, the "input" to the ETACs is three wires, one of which is grounded, and the other two are momentary close switches for lock & unlock - so you should be able to use this with relays as was suggested earlier - if your car is like mine & doesn't have the passenger & rear door options you may have to locate the wiring in the driver's door and trace it back to the footwell.

mudmong (not verified)
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yes i do have the the wiring

yes i do have the the wiring manual. It looks as though i was going wrong then with trying to power the lock motors directly, that is how i blew the etacs as i put a relay in the circuit to boost the signal power to the motors. I will try it the way both of you have said and wire it into the switch circuit.

Just to be clear do i have to connect the lock, unlock switch wires to earth for them to lock unlock the car?

 

Thanks again Anthony

fordem
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Yup

That's what the diagrams show.

mudmong (not verified)
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Ok great will try it out when

Ok great will try it out when the misses gets home with the car.

 

Thanks for all your help will let you know how i get on

Anthony

abzpinin (not verified)
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How did you get on with

How did you get on with this?

 

I'm about to do the same with my Pinin.

damirgan (not verified)
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Hey, good day,   Could you

Hey, good day,

 

Could you tell me where you were able to source the etacs unit for your io? My central door lock system is fried and I need to have the etacs replaced.

 

Looking forward to your faourable response.

 

Kind regards,

Damion

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