ktm300's ZR
The coil springs are
The coil springs are dobinson +30mm.
I have spacers fitted to the top of the standard struts(see pics). These locate & lower the strut assembly by 30mm. But combined with the springs induce 1 degree + camber.
Tires are as you say 225, 75, 16.
This gives me a safe, well handling vehicle with between 280/300mm clearance under the bash plate and 520mm from guard to wheel center.
I consider that good clearance. Regardless, any higher and you would have engineering, reliability & main roads issues I would imagine.
Hope that helps.
Thanks mate. There is slight
Thanks mate.
There is slight rubbing on the inner guards, equally both sides @ full lock, which can be annoying. But other than that they fit.
No I don't have wheel spacers, they a illegal in Queensland (rightly so). If you want wider tires go for a rim with offset that suits your application.
I fabricated & machined the strut spacers myself.
On that note, when I was playing with these, there was some bizarre advice being offered, mostly by people that should know better. Some I have seen on the net etc. seem downright dangerous. Be careful if your contemplating this sort of stuff.
Cheers.
Sorry no. If you have
Sorry no.
If you have ' the sizes', copy the profile of the mounting surfaces, ensure adequate location & use sound engineering practises, the end result may be fine.
Bear in mind though.
I am not a mechanical engineer & it should be assumed everything I do is incorrect.
Springs
Which model Dobinsons springs did you get for the front? I note yours is an updated 2ltr model (like mine).
I sourced the updated model springs from Dobinsons, but these were in fact incorrect. Mitsu had advised dobinsons that the new model was way heavier, so dobinsons adjusted the springs in the update model.
However they gave me a near on 2 inch lift in the front on standard shocks, which maxed out if I even ran over an M&M on the road.
I took it back and now have achieved around a 28-30mm lift, I think they were going to install the springs made for the earlier model, but may have just lopped a few springs out of mine :O
Still having dramas getting them right tho unfortunately...
I don't know about all that.
I don't know about all that. The ride is quite firm, not the greatest for articulation but very good driveabilty considering the raised center of gravity. I do a fair bit of wannabe rally & the car works just fine.
Below is a reply I received when enquiring & these are the springs I have fitted.
Hope that answers your question.
Thanks for the enquiry (ktm300), we have a special design front and an off the shelf rear that picks it up 25mm. Front is known as "Pajero IO F/C" and the rear is KFFS-90. We found when specing these that they will top out with factory spec shocks if lifted any taller than this. We don't keep the front part number on the shelf so production will take 2-3 weeks from point of order. These part numbers are supplied for overseas applications quite regularly.
EDIT: I think I have given you a bum steer, in that the above is possibly from 'Kings springs' & these are not the springs I have fitted.
I don't know, I'm confused.
Cheers.
+75mm
+40mm
+25mm
Nice and level. Looks stock as a rock.
Look awesome, been trying to
Look awesome, been trying to work out how to lift my own Io, might have to follow a simliar path to your own. One question though, where did you get the rear shocks, spacers & bumpstop extentions from?
i also see you mentioned you fabricated the spacers yourself.
would you be interested in doing the same for a few of us here???
I would also be keen for a pair.
Hi guys,
Hi guys,
Rides really well and clears 400mm under each tire. (when wheel lifted by forklift)
On another note, thanks but:
I can't really be doing this stuff for others as nothing is designed or certified. It's only for interest sake and to pass on & receive thoughts & ideas.
If I was to machine bits for others the price would be be huge and the liability moreso.
I do everything @ lunch time or after work and supply my own materials.
Machine setup alone would cost you $100 a pop. The cost of that 50mm 'Ralloy' is insane.
Sorry.
The shocks are 'Pedders' Part # 8128 Comfort (something). You will have to get new ?16mm? rubbers & butcher your top standard rubber to reuse the bush or have another machined. The top rubber needs to be pressed in. You run the lower rubber without the bush.
Remember these are 75mm longer when extended. They are 18mm longer when compressed.
Not allowing for this will cause grief.
None of this is straight forward, but its fun to play.
Cheers.
Pedders
I'm still figuring out how all this works...
If the shocks are 18mm longer when compressed, as long as the coil spacers / bump stops are extended by more than this (eg 25mm) then it should work...?
Back on the front strut spacers, I've seen some pictures of Billet alloy ones that look like wheel spacers. Is there any reason not to go with that style?
I'm considering a 25mm lift both ends, but I like the sound of the rear having more down travel with those shocks. Will this, as you say, cause grief?
.
I'm still figuring out how all this works...
If the shocks are 18mm longer when compressed, as long as the coil spacers / bump stops are extended by more than this (eg 25mm) then it should work...?
I think your on to it.
- The bump stops need to be long enough to prevent the shock shaft carrying the weight of the car when fully compressed. eg. The bump stop bottoms out not the shock.
- The coil spacers or total spring length needs to be long enough to maintain purchase when the shock is fully extended. eg. The unloaded spring is longer than the shock travel.(Minimally longer. To long and the spring may bind on full compression.)
Back on the front strut spacers, I've seen some pictures of Billet alloy ones that look like wheel spacers. Is there any reason not to go with that style?
- I didn't look @ any off the shelf items myself. The whole buy a Patrol thing gets a bit old after 8 yrs.
- I know the type you mean & cant see any issues as long as they are suitable, although I have to say I like the way mine 'locate' in the body work and on the strut. I don't know if this is a consideration for the manufacturers of the 'Billet' units.
I'm considering a 25mm lift both ends, but I like the sound of the rear having more down travel with those shocks. Will this, as you say, cause grief?
- Dobinsons have springs front and rear, that are + 30 odd.(Common knowledge I know.)
- They also list rear shocks as + 40 or 50, cant remember which. That combination may be the most practical & legal solution.
- No grief when you think things through and ask lots of questions.
I think you'd be up for brake lines, ABS cables & longer panhard rod if you go more than 75 80 mm longer in the rear.
Hope that helps.
Fair enough
Hi guys,
Rides really well and clears 400mm under each tire. (when wheel lifted by forklift)
On another note, thanks but:
I can't really be doing this stuff for others as nothing is designed or certified. It's only for interest sake and to pass on & receive thoughts & ideas.
If I was to machine bits for others the price would be be huge and the liability moreso.
I do everything @ lunch time or after work and supply my own materials.
Machine setup alone would cost you $100 a pop. The cost of that 50mm 'Ralloy' is insane.
Sorry.
The shocks are 'Pedders' Part # 8128 Comfort (something). You will have to get new ?16mm? rubbers & butcher your top standard rubber to reuse the bush or have another machined. The top rubber needs to be pressed in. You run the lower rubber without the bush.
Remember these are 75mm longer when extended. They are 18mm longer when compressed.
Not allowing for this will cause grief.
None of this is straight forward, but its fun to play.
Cheers.
oh thats a shame. but fair enough. would hate to have one backfire and then we will all be up the creek lol.
Kaiser part numbers
| Vehicle | Axle Loc'n | Year | Description | Shaft Diameter | Shaft Spline | Ring Gear Bolts | Ratio | Kaiser Part Nº |
Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| L200 Outdoor - Sport - Savana | Front | 2004 on | Mitsubishi | 30.04 | 25 | 10 | All | KL103 | - |
| Rear | 2004 on | Mitsubishi | 32 | 28 | 12 | All | KL104 | - | |
| Rear | 2009 | Mitsubishi | 33.5 | 30 | 10 | All | KL124 | 8 | |
| L200 GL - L200 GLS | Front | 2000 | Mitsubishi | 30.4 | 25 | 10 | All | KL103 | - |
| Rear | 2000 | Mitsubishi | 33.5 | 30 | 10 | All | KL120 | - | |
| Pajero Tr4 | Front | to 2003 | Mitsubishi | 30.4 | 25 | 10 | All | KL103 | - |
| Rear | to 2009 | Mitsubishi | 33.5 | 28 | 10 | All | KL120 | - | |
| Pajero IO | Front | - | Mitsubishi | 30.4 | 25 | 10 | All | KL103 | - |
| Rear | - | Mitsubishi | 33.5 | 28 | 10 | All | KL120 | - | |
| Triton - Pajero 3500 - Montero 3500 | Front | - | Mitsubishi | 32 | 28 | 10 | All | KL125 | - |
| Front | - | Mitsubishi | 38 | 31 | 12 | All | KL112 | - | |
| Pajero 3000 - Montero 3000 | Front | - | Mitsubishi | 32 | 28 | 10 | All | KL125 | - |
| Front | 97 | Mitsubishi | 30.04 | 25 | 10 | All | KL103 | - | |
| Rear | - | Mitsubishi | 32 | 28 | 12 | All | KL126 | - | |
| L200 EVO | Front | - | Mitsubishi | 32 | 28 | 10 | All | KL125 | - |
| Rear | - | Mitsubishi | 38 | 33 | 12 | All | KL147 | - | |
| 8. L200 Savana with Dana 44 differential, without locking diff switch on dash. | |||||||||
From this website:
www.kaiserlocker.com/en/produtos/bloqueio-de-diferencial/aplicacao.asp
Video
You have been warn about the underbody but we forgot the guards, the doors, the tree...
anyway too sensible can be boring and will be forgotten...Go baby:)
I have some steep mud track in the brindabella (a bit after snow melt), and once you go through are fine but I don't like too much doing 50 m +, then fail and go down in reverse, sliding everywhere...:) and go where I don't want too...
Happy io
AWESOME!!! DAM i need to pull
AWESOME!!! DAM i need to pull my finger out and get my lockers in! Looks like that front locker was priceless.
What it cost you to have someone else install them?
The close to tree stuff is the other reason I want to run a wider offsett wheel or spacers
.
Hey Man hows the Bub?
Lockers were $850. to install.
Worth every cent. Set up really well. Front took 6 hrs, rear 3. Would have taken 3 times that with me in charge.
And yeah they work really well, slowly creep over everything.
Have a look @ the other vids I've got on vimeo, personally I think it's a bit of a weapon.
kaiser diff
I think you should, now, have a special licence to drive this thing ! lol
$850 is very good, I got my car for service a few days ago and they quoted me $400 to fix an oil leak at the front diff cover. So I have 2 choices, get of my bum and fix it myself, or get the kaiser later on for the front and fix the leak at the same time (very tempting). I am getting the rear ARB diff lock next month.
Is the front diff good on normal road?, around tight corner? (like while parking in full lock..)
Funnio Claudio (I looked for that one, didn't I?, better wear it well 
)
Happy io.
.
Hey Claud.
I have driven on the bitumen quite a bit now in 4H and it does take some getting used to.
The steering pulls to the right on acceleration and back to the left on deceleration.
I think the effect may be getting better as time goes by.
Best off staying in 2H anyway as bitumen probably creates the most stress on the CV's due to the diffs locked state.
Both lockers have an audible ratcheting type sound & 'let go' every so often with a clunk, the rear being more noticeable.
Caution is required on tight turns, the wet is down right dangerous if not paying attention, as the car under steers horrendously, then snap over steers.
Having said that, it was terrible with the limo rear prior.
The arb locker will give you the piece of mind that this wont happen as its normally open and shouldnt tend to push you thru turns.
Rereading that, it seems all bad. It's not. I've been in hot front wheel drives that torque steer worse. Also Detroit lockers & cig lockers in the back of old school V8s are so much worse.
Just need to adjust your driving style to suite.
I love em.
Front kaiser
Your kaisers actually sound better behaved than a lot of other auto lockers - I'd list them as a win for sure.
The arb unlocked doesn't make any difference to the way mine drove with the stock open dif. Because I have a two door io I was worried about spinning out in the wet with a limo due to the short wheel base.
hope you can make it down this way in january, would be good to see the kaisers first hand
Kaiser running in
I have read, somewhere on the net, about a landcruiser testing the kaiser diff that this effect actually did get better after some driving.
Thanks.
Happy io.
Yeah I read the same thing, Kaiser talk about a "running in period" It will be interesting to see how it goes over the next 20k (still need to pull my finger out and install mine!)
Cool as.
They are just there! All a bit boring really. Goes anywhere, does anything, no fuss.
Havnt been up the beach yet.
They are a lot quieter now.
Though the rear lets off a 'shot' every now and then, fun for me and the kids laughing at Mummy weeing her pants and breaking into a rant about spending all that money to turn your car into a piece of shit and who needs to climb mountains anyway, what are you a f?><ing billygoat etc etc.
Might take her out tomorow now that I'm on the subject.
Havnt had a laugh in a while. All good.
Cheers.
New audio.
Hi all.
After fitting a decent stereo for a guy at work I got to thinking of doing the same.
After some research, this is what I've come up with.
- Alpine CDE-121 EI. Head unit.
- Alpine KTP-445.
- Response Precision. Class D Mono.
- Response Kevlar 6 1/2" coaxial fronts.
- Response Kevlar 5" coaxial rears.
- Pioneer TSW 301 12" free air sub. (freebie)
- Carpeted formply panel & removable baffle, converting rear shelf into 2 cu' sealed enclosure.
Must be the best bang for your buck sound I've heard.
Took a while to run in and set up but now it's punchy, loud, clear and crisp.
No booming, no mud, no buzzing panels.
Jagged it first up.
Happy as.
Feedback wanted !
No news from a while...I hope that you and the io are doing well...
I was wondering how the diff lock settling in ? I don't think that ARB have a front diff to fit the io....and I am considering the Kaiser. My problem is that I drive in 4H when the road is wet to have a good and safe grip, and I am undecided as to loose this if I fit the Kaiser in the front....
Happy io
Hi Guy's. True, no news for a
Hi Guy's.
True, no news for a while. Anyway the lockers are fantastic. There are pro's and con's, though the pro's win by far. I would'nt own a fourbie without them.
On the subject of owning fourbies, it's bitter sweet to say but the ZR is up for sale. I have bitten the bullet and bought a 2014 challenger. With growing kids it was time to move on to a larger car. As awsome as the ZR is, it's small. Kinda done with loading roof racks every time we head out.
I will miss the little black buggy, it's the best thing. When patrol drivers say "you wont get stuck", you know they agree.
If anyone is interested it is for sale on carsales.com advert id SSE-AD-2791989.
cheers.
KTM - ZR
http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Mitsubishi-Pajero-iO-2002/SSE...
ah no worries - sad to see you leave the io's but many have moved on to the chalenger.
keen to hear about your future 4wd'ing.
for anyone wanting to puchase a seriously modified io this is the one! low kms, awesome lockers, great deal!
Syndicate
Welcome
Welcome mate, Nice looking ZR you got there. Saw you also have the lifted shocks in the front, are they the Dobinson setup? How much lift did you get?
Am I correct by looking at your pic and mine (the angle of the A arm) that you gain ground clearance fitting the aftermarket coils? Cos I were under the impression that you only gain body lift with lifted coils? Your tyres also look max 225/75/16 so your not gaining ground clearance much on them.
Cheers 4 eers
Sold: Pajero IO 1.6 3 door
75mm lift
235/70/16 BF AT
Wrap around pipe style front bumper
"Pikinani"
fielies6@gmail.com