Outlander wheels on Pajerio IO
Fto 6.5
Hi nzio, you sure on the 7"? Mine are definitely 6.5"
I agree, the fto is a light weight wheel however it is a trade off on road a the weight reduction on the sprung mass compensates for the heavier than stock oversize muddie.
Any pics of the damage?
Great to know outlander wheels are similar specs!
Yep sorry 6.5 is right
Sorry, brain fade...
The Kumho muddies are so damn heavy even with FTO rims they were 7kg more per corner than standard rim and AT tyres. Would be interesting to know what the Outlander rim weighs though (just pop a tyre off and weigh one for us will you John? ;) )
I'll take a pic of the damage and post it up. It's driveable but I'm on the lookout for a new used rim.
FTO rim damage
.
Any pics of the damage?
Here you go...
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/targadon/407a1c8a.jpg
Cause of crack
. Any pics of the damage?
Here you go...
There was no mark on the tyre but you can see the scuff on the rim in the middle of the break where the rock followed through. I think it happened in one of many deep rutted rocky tracks we did that day - I must have just caught the edge of the rim on a lump of rock. The problem is the flared lip edge - I've been looking more closely at 4x4 rims walking down the street lately and they typically have a lot more metal on the edges than this.
Thin bead
Yeah, my only reservations on the fto rims is the bead is "car" grade, not 4wd tough.
Bummer you broke one!
Lots of the pajero pinin guys in greece run after market alloys that are cheap BUT none of the 4wd versions of the rims are available in australia, only the light weight drift varieties.
Would love some compomotive dakar alloys but at $2500 for four that is a lot of $50 ebay rims
they are
They don't look big enough in my eyes, look like the lower the entire car. But, might just be the contrast of the wheels on a white car
yeah its cvoz the tyres are 215/60 so they are currently smaller, and the car does sit lower. but im looking at a few tyre options for them
offset is +38 and the width
offset is +38 and the width is 6 i believe. i have been looking for a cheap set of muddies for them, but i would really like to find a set that are non-directional, as being a cheap set im not too confident they will all last... but i might also try out the federal couragia mt and see what kinda price i can get on them...
Hey FAB72, those wheels in
Hey FAB72, those wheels in the pic of Themis's car look to have been modified. They seem to have been widened, or had the offset altered, or both. Have a close look, and compare them with the standard Outlander wheels that are shown earlier in this thread on Daniel's car.
Also, I don't want to seem to have a negative attitude, but in that pic of Themis's car it looks like there would be serious rubbing problems when the wheels were deflected upwards.
I am still hoping that the Falcon RTV Sunnies turn out to be a good match for the iO. Based on the specs that I have, the backspacing seems to be the same as the standard iO wheels.
Yep...certainly not what I'm
Yep...certainly not what I'm trying to achieve.
I 100% agree with Claudio...the +38 offset is the best way to go. Gives a touch more clearance to the strut for wider rubber without it hanging out the guards. Themises' car looks like the front wheels are too far reward. Might be some people's idea of a good fit, but not for me.....pass!
Not sure of the road trafic regulations where he is, but here in South Australia, you'd get crucified for that sort of thing.
Fab.
I agree it improves the
I agree it improves the tough-ness and you could argue it would improve roll over prevention too.
ADR's say...roughly, that the tyres should not extend past the extremities of the body work (could argue that the flares are part of the body work), but the big clincher is the wheel track measurement.
Wheel track being the measurement from the centre of the tyre across to the centre of the other tyre along the same axle. There is a maximum allowable varriation to this measurement and changing the offset is what affects the wheel track measurement.
Then there are a whole heap of other BS regulations regarding the allowable changes to circumference, tyres fouling body work/suspension components, rim diamtre changes, tyre/rim load ratings and speed ratings....the list goes on.
In theory, an insurance company could technically refuse a claim if your vehicle was found to be unroadworthy based on non engineer approved modifications outside of the allowable changes.
Sucks....I know.
Fab.
Quote
The wheel track must not be reduced to less than the
standard track specified by the vehicle manufacturer
for the particular model of vehicle.
The track of a car or car derivative may be increased
by up to 26mm beyond the maximum specified by
the vehicle manufacturer for the particular model of
vehicle. Off-road passenger vehicles fitted with front
and rear beam axles, may have an increase in track
up to 50mm beyond the maximum specified by
the vehicle
flexi flares
Just gonna try to insert my rim fit up photo again to show what +30 offset looks like when fitted to the rear. Hope it works this time.
WOW, that is huge... +38 is probably the most you want to go. mine don't hang out at all, by eye they look like theyre roughly 10 mm inside the guard. don't quote me on that. I was in opposite lock today looking for a vhf scanner, as dick smith didnt have the model i was after, anyway, i spotted some flexi flares they had in stock, that looked pretty nice on the navara they had outside. it said on the box they were universal for $85. Not a bad deal imo, but you could also get some garden edging from bunnings for about a 1/4 of the price. these flexi flares look a lot better though... food for thought i guess
on another note, I also agree that on themis car the front looks too far back... not my cup of tea.
diff drop
Would the front wheels move further back as a result of a diff drop?
No, not by itself.
By the way "diff drop" is a little misleading - when you drop the diff you're actually dropping everything else that bolts to the cross section supports at the same time, including the engine, so for all that to move back would be quite a mission. Having said that, it may be others dropped their diff using some other method, but as far as I could see you've only got a few mm of movement down before it would hit the cross member anyway.
.
It doesnt look like its sticking out too far sure, but with tyres and flares on it may look great. Would be a pitty to spend all the money for it to look silly though. So it all comes down to personally preference and if you would want to take the risk.
Also, that guy has yellow struts that seem to have a higher lower pan, whats the go there?
Syndicate
FTOs
FTO wheels are 7", so not the same, but those should fit OK. They look nice and sturdy (I chipped a chunk off one FTO rim - theyre not designed for the rough stuff)