rallyraid pajero io
we need to get in touch with this guy
http://www.motortopia.com/cars/2000-misubishi-pajeromontero-15527
found this...if you look
found this...
if you look about 3/4 the way down the names it says Chris Whitten's Pajero iO
http://www.rooracing.com.au/index.php/importing-and-building-cars
aparrently these guys built it, so i wonder what kind of info they might be able to give us on their build...
Io Rally Car
Hey guys,
I know this is from about a year (or more) ago - But for what it is worth, I built the io you're talking about for Chris and now maintain it for the current owner. The guy behind Roo Racing (Brent) performed all the chassis prep and welded in the roll cage and in a round about way, I took if from there.
Car was built in Sydney primarily for Australian Safari / Condo 750 and now resides in Melbourne and is pulled out of the shed to perform as a course car for various gravel rally events, 4WD driver training and the occasional Cross Country Rally.
1.8L Turbo - Extremely well plated and protected chassis with custom coilovers and stripped of everything it doesn't need to compete (Good fun!)
If there is anything you'd like to know, there's not much on that car I didn't personally pull on / off at some point! ;-)
AND - I joined this forum because I'm thinking of building one for myself because I know they're a fun little truck!
My 2c,
But for what it is worth,
Hum....I guess, it is worth a lot...F&"£% YES it is worth a lot....Not sure where to start !! Thanks for joining the forum....
I am trying to install a lower gearing on the transfer case, have you done some other modification on it ?....I have been doing some reading on people welding the VCU on they all wheel drive, not the io....
Just tell us what you did...That is going to be a very interesting story...
The link that Daniel have is no longer working, a few pictures would be great....
Warning...you are going to be hammered with questions :)
Happy io
Hey, Thanks for the warm
Hey,
Thanks for the warm welcoming!
I've got a pictures of the car at various stages, but they're on Facebook and note hosted anywhere. I'm not familar with how images work on here but a quick look says they need to on photobucket or similar. Have I missed something?
Not sure on the welding of the VCU. This car runs the standard ratio's as all work is done at speed and have had no need for shorter gear's - In fact I honestly think it has rarely seen 4L for that matter. Perhaps that is something I won't be able to help too much with sorry... But when you say your looking at welding it, are you saying you're going to lock it up? Or are you after Rock Crawling type ratios?
As far as the Rally Io;
1.8L Turbo, Front Mount Intercooler & EVO 3 TD05 Turbo. Link ECU Custom tuned 10psi @ 165KW ATW (more in it, that is plenty for what it does)
'Engine internals is a whole seperate story but lots of genuine Mits EVO gear in there...'
Factory 5 speed & Transfer Case, Custom single plate organic clutch
H/D Cermaic front brake pads & Rear Show linings
Fully Plated, Stitch welded and strengthened chassis + 6 point weld in cage,
Custom MCA 55mm Front Strut and modified Adjustable strut Tops
Pedders Rear Shocks and Dobinsons custom springs out back.
2 x Sabelt Seats, Lexan Windows (use to be all round, these days just from the B Pillar Back)
100L fuel Cell, 2 Bosch Motorsport Fuel Pumps
etc, etc...............
Car was oringinally built in 99 and run as a production class rally car in Cross Country Rally - Was Semi-Factory supported in that it was afforded a small budget from Mistubishi genuine parts in ther early days. In 2003 it was stripped, turbocharged and bilt as what they call an 'A5' Car which is pretty much, run what you brung outright class - Sponsorship by this point was RACQ (Or NRMA to us welshman) But it struggled with reliability on it's first few outings as with the extra grunt it was hitting things much harder than it used to - But after a few years in semi retirement due to significant lack of funds we managed to iron out the gremlins.
It was then resurected by a mate of mine - who bought it in a sad state and now uses it as a course car and we're bringing it back to more of a production car. That is front doors and power windows are going back in, we're putting an original dash / heater / demisnter and factory wiring loom back in so it's a more polite place to be.
We got a hold of a donor car (Stat write off - Hit in the rear) and completely stripped it of everything we could re-use; doors, wiring, dash, heater - Everything but the shell and have pulled the rally car off the road to install a heap of this gear to give it a 'Birthday' in time for a rally later this year (www.alpinerally.org.au)
Anyway - I've dribbled on for too long already. I'll leave you with that. If there's anything specific you'd like to know, or if you've got any tips on those images - let me know.
Chris
For the picture check this
For the picture check this link http://www.pajerio.com/forum/how-attach-images-post
For the transfer case, it does have a ration of 1.54, I am working to fit the 2.85, not crawling but should help, that is if I can make it work !
For the VCU, I think that I have some pb, but not sure 100 % yet, check here http://www.pajerio.com/forum/io-video post 18. I have done some research on the net and I found that some people weld the inside of it to, yes, to block it. I am not sure of what is what at this stage, just trying to understand what happen....
That sound like an very impressive io :)
Happy io
Claude, welding the VCU on an iO may not be the best idea.
In fact, welding the VCU is probably the last thing you want to do on an iO - for starters, you can achieve the same thing by selecting 4HLc, which will lock the input & output together - the reason I say it's not a good idea is that it will prevent use of the 4H transfer case selection as an all wheel drive option.
All wheel drive (or full time 4WD) requires some degree of slip between the front & rear axles to permit the vehicle to turn corners properly, due to the fact that the front and rear tires do not take the same path through a corner, if there is no slip, as would occur on a part time 4WD vehicle, you run into a problem known as drive train wind up and can end up breaking drive train parts.
I did take a look at that video, and it does appear as if there is no drive to the front axle - my question to you is this - were you using either of the "Lc" positions on the transfer case (4HLc or 4LLc) - if you weren't you may have a defective VCU, or, if you were, your front axle disconnect may not be engaging.
Thanks
Thanks for the input....This problem have only happened when in 4LLc. I haven't fully understood what is happening.
When I do light 4x4, no problem at all, if I go slow, again no problem. As soon as I have something more challenging, once I give it some speed and if I loose grip and get some good wheel spin (usually a climb) because the grip is no longer there and I still try to push it a bit. If the car doesn't go forward, I will stop, this is when the problem is more visible as I think that I loose the front wheel drive. But once the car start moving again, after a short distance (as seen on this video), it is back on again. Again it is not all the time, 3 weeks ago I went to the same hill climb, and the car as done it very easily. The more I think of it the more I am sure that there is a problem, and it might be more visible during harder section because this is where I need all the traction (and fail), and it might happen on other occasion but because I don't need all the traction (not failing), it is not noticeable.
If I understand the problem could be the front axle disconnect and not from the transfer case. So the drive shaft would be turning but the diff would remain "open"
The front axle disconnect is , if I understood, controlled by the vaccum line.
Am I correct ? I haven't work on this and it is a bit out of my knowledge or comfort zone, thanks for the help.
Happy io
When I find some more of the
When I find some more of the engine bay, I'll definately post them up.
Cat is in the process of a bit of a tidy up - Engine only went back in last weekend and there is more to do over next few months so I'll get more as it comes back together in any case.
Struts were custom - They're a Rally / Motorsport Strut built to order as a direct bolt in to factory top mounts and clevis. Expensive bit of gear and meant primarily for rally and off road racing. I hand built a previous set for thsi which were great on the road but useless off road.
On that note, have any of you guys had a play with Swaybar diconects? These (For off road use only) will give you significant extra articulation in the front (FYI)
Refer Images of the Rally Car
Refer Images of the Rally Car - These are a few I had handy. If I come across some more I'll put them up later...
As for your issue - You may want to check the basic's first, the Actuator on the fron diff is pretty simple in terms of how it engages the front diff.
Two hoses go into either side of an actuator - The actuator pulls a pin out of the diff to engage the Front Diff and lets it slide back in to disengage it. Check all your hoses are connected, makes sure they're on the right side (Only an issue of this part of the car has been apart in the past) and then make sure the pin is not siezed for some reason (you can physically pull it with some pliers). I wouldn't spend too much time with your centre coupling, until you know for sure the front end is doing it's thing (Just my 2c anyways...)
PS: As per my previous note, I have bought myself an Io. 2003 ZR that needs a new radiator support from Ebay. Became the officional owner last night!
Chris
New io
Well done for your new car, I saw a couple of nice ZR, black, 4 doors for sale, one under 130000km, is it one of those ?
Thanks for your help, I checked that pin, it does move nicely but not by itself, even by selecting 4Llc, still not moving. The 2 hoses look to be well connected. I found that I got vacuum all the time on one side (the inner side), nothing on the other side (no matter the selection in the transfer case, engine running).....
With the engine is stop, if I vacuum the outer hose, the pin moves out. I may have a vacuum problem ???
I will check on my other io and see what happen and yes, I think that Fordem and you are right and I will leave the VCU alone....
Thanks for your help.
Happy io
Based solely on what you say
Based solely on what you say there, I was say yes you potentially have a vacum issue.
Those two hoses come from the solenoids located on the drivers side strut tower, low in the engine bay. There should be two connectors, two solenoids and two hoses leading off them down toward some hard metal lines (This that goes down toward the actuator).
If you've constanty got vacum to only one side, I would be checking the solenoids first. Ofcourse check that the hoses are connected while you are there ;-)
But in short, one solenid should be closing (cutting off the constant vacum) and the other should open supplying a vacum signal to the 'other' hose which opens the actautor down below, pulling the pin out and engaging the front diff.
I hope that helps to explain that part 8-)
Thanks re my new Io. Mine is actually a bit of a 'Renovators Delight'. It's a registerable write off - Has had a front impact that requires a new radiator support, headlights and bumper bar. Just so happens I have most of that sitting with the 'Rally Io' in Melbourne (I'm in Sydney). We actually sourced a full donor car to help with the work on the rally car and the entire empty shell is just sitting there as of last weekend. Seeing this black ZR advertised this week needing just the parts I happen to be able to access was too much of a coincidence.. $1000 as is, 70K on the clock and the interior / rest of the exterior looks pretty good -Mind you it's an Ebay sale and online images can be decieving.. But we'll see!
The donor car was hit in the rear, so with this needing a front end the situation couldn't be more perfect!
New Io
Yes I have seen that one too...BARGAIN...auto gear box if I remember. Nice project :) What is the cost to get that car to Sydney, I have seen a few io for parts in the past but the transport was not cheap ...
Thanks for the info. This is going to be "fun" as it could be an electrical fault, (solenoid not getting the electrical signal that the 4x4 is "on") not my stronger point :) At least I have something to work on....
Happy io
Edit 2.53 pm
It could be just one of the 3 switch at the back of the transfer case....another victim of these switches....:)
I would first switch the
I would first switch the hoses at the actuator so you can confirm that that allows you to lock in FWD - Once you know that is OK, then trace you're electrical gremlin... Best of luck with it in any case!
Yeah project car is an Auto, but won't be for long. I've got to work a timeline out for what get's done in what order. Most of what I need to repair it and swap it to a manual is in my mates shed in Melbourne. I'm going down this weekend to pick it up from the Ebayer and take it to my mates shed. It'll need to stay there for a couple of months while I sort out a couple of projects I've got on the run here in Sydney to make room.
As for the cost to bring it home to Sydney when I do bring it back - I'll be towing it. My daily driver is a 3.2DiD ML Triton and I've got enough toys to warrant owning a car trailer, so cost will be a return trip of fuel for me... I do the Sydney - Melbourne trip every 2-3 months for one reason or another, so it's no biggie (Was there last weekend working on the Rally Io). I wasn't expecting to be back so soon, but this buy was too good to pass up! ;-)
Claude - why not start a new thread...
Rather than derail this one, how about starting a new thread to diagnose your front disconnect problem - I've had issues with mine (a failed solenoid valve) and have actually had most of it off the vehicle at some point in time - right now it's been 're-plumbed" to work with just one solenoid valve)
...
Fordem,
Generous offer from our new valuable member, copied and paste from his post 3, If there is anything you'd like to know, there's not much on that car I didn't personally pull on / off at some point! ;-)
I couldn't pass that one !!, but yes a new thread could be a good idea, or I will try to find an existing one with the same subject.
Next question, to our new io owner :) About the brake do you have more info on them: "H/D Cermaic front brake pads & Rear Show linings". (Ceramic ?) Have you keep the same caliper and disc ?
Happy io
Howdy again, Yes factory
Howdy again,
Yes factory calipers and rotors sizes were used.
The front rotors were replaced with DBA4000 Cryo treated adn slotted rotors. The Pads were SBS Carbon Ceramic pads - The last I heard however this company no longer produces thier performance brand of pad compound, but there are plenty of other compound that could be used.
In the rear the same compound was specially bonded onto factory rear brake shoes (Drum rear) and then it was all put back together with some good fluid. To my understanding the setup has worked a treat ever since. No brake fade reported with the only side effect a small amount of noise when the car is cold.
There are bigger setup's that can be fitted I'm sure, but this car never seemed to need them. Keep in mind not only were the pads upgraded, quite a bit of weight was removed at the same time...
Chris
Rally IO
Hi Everyone,
I am the owner of the aforementioned IO Turbo Rally Car; Chris told me about your forum today whilst picking up his "new" IO project car, and stripped the last part of the front off my donor IO! I thought I'd better join up too! If anyone is interested in the car and what we do with it, I'm more than happy to post regular updates. My car is moving towards the final stages of its "renovation", with a new paint scheme, panels, suspension and interior to finish before we test the car, ready to rally! Look forward to sharing info with you all.
Regards,
Troy
Hi Troy, Thanks for signing
Hi Troy, Thanks for signing up ! Start a build thread! Im super keen to see your beast! Id imagine they would work well for that class of racing?
What specs do you have on the custom coilovers? I just finished another set for mine, more for articulation and general off road work, they also accommodate the extra travel potential once a diff drop is done.
I just need to work out how to setup that quick release front swaybar setup. Any ideas? I look at it every time I lay under the car and cant work out how to do it.
quick release front sway bar
Being a rally car I suspect that he doesn't want a quick release system :)
This quick release sway bar link is something that I though about...one more idea, just not enough time to do them.
What I found is this.....again just idea....the existing link cannot be adapted to a quick release system (not that I could think of anyway). My idea was to make a new link that look like thishttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-GOLF-MK3-GTI-16V-VR6-2-8-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-BUSH-LINK-C411-/200900991634?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ec6a1da92#ht_2484wt_798
Bolt a thread to the sway bar, slide the "cylinder bush" on it, large washer, pin through it...done. Remove the pin, slide the bush out, ready for 4x4. The only pb was to find a system to hold the link somewhere while doing 4x4. The other idea was to make one with 2 "cylinder bush" http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REAR-SWAY-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-LINK-BUSH-KIT-CHRYSLER-VOYAGER-1996-2000-/310666645783?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item48552cd117#ht_1591wt_798 and remove it completely while doing 4x4. This will probably make a bit of noise on road...
Just an idea...Happy io
The sway bar comment was more
The sway bar comment was more in reply to CCM
On that note, have any of you guys had a play with Swaybar diconects? These (For off road use only) will give you significant extra articulation in the front (FYI)
Id like to setup something along the lines of these. But like you say, need to find a way to keep the way bar out the way during use after that somehow.
Hey - Yeah that's what I was
Hey - Yeah that's what I was referring to.
There are a few products on the market that will do the trick, but what you've got pictured there mean you are on the right track. I'm not personally one for rock crawling and maximum articulation, however I have checked and there is approximately 2 inches of extra articulation in the front when one of the swaybar links on these is disconnected.
As far as keeping the swaybar 'Out of the way with the links disconnected', which is what I'm assuming you mean - No stress. Only disconnect one of the two links... This means the swaybar will continue to move in the normal arc it's designed to, it just doesn't transfer the weight to the corner no longer connected.
You will only have a problem with the swaybar touching stuff if you completely disconnect it at both sids and you don't need to - Disconnecting one side will do the trick. I hope that helps explain!
As always, anything I can help with - Let me know!
Chris
The problem is the sway bar
The problem is the sway bar will come in contact with the control arm and or the drive shaft depending on what way your articulating.
If disconnecting both sides you could get it right up our the way and re connect it to something, but it doesn't look like it will quite clear the drive shaft... I guess if you re mount the sway bar 10mm or so further back on the chassis, then it would clear. Ill look at doing that.
I am new to this forum and
I am new to this forum and don't own a Pajero iO yet, but have become very interested in the vehicle as a sweet spot between a full size 4x4 and AWD cars. The spliced frame/unibody design, light weight, small wheelbase even in 4 door, transfer case, etc. is a recipe for an excellent rally raid machine. It's very nice to see such a machine on this forum, but there is not much. It seems the iO in rally raid form isn't very popular in Australia (at least on the web). In South America, however, the iO (TR4 as its known there) is a very common rally build. There are lots of images and videos of these running about on dirt tracks. So I would like to post some of this material for your enjoyment. Next thing I will do is go to the bank and send a wire transfer to Japan to pay for my very own iO that will arrive on Canadian shores in about a month. For now there are just photos and plans...
Hello & Welcome! Yes as you
Hello & Welcome!
Yes as you have noted they are not paricularly popular here in Australi as our Cross Country / Rally Raid scen is quite small, people tend to stick to quite large 4WD vehicles from the like of Toyota (Hilux), Nissan (Patrol) and Isuzu (Rodea / Colorado / Jackaroo etc).
I think most people on here will agree the platform us underated... Good luck with your new project and be sure to keep up updated!
I've just purchase my own 2003 LWB ZR io to be built as a Cross Country car for our production catagory - Budget and timing aside it is something that should start to come together very early next year!
Thanks for the welcome! The
Thanks for the welcome! The Cross Country rally scene is pretty much non-existant here in Alberta, Canada. Which is a shame because we have some very nice mountain roads in various conditions here. Stage rally and rally cross are more popular though.
I've noted your build, it's quite exciting to see you gutting one of these. Seems like a great way to learn the anatomy of your car. I can't wait to see you put the two chassis together. I'll leave the questions I have for your thread though.
Syndicate
and someone should try to get
and someone should try to get in on this... i would be keen but i just dont have the money
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=australasian+rally+production+class&u...
CHECK OUT MY BUILD VVV
http://www.pajerio.com/forum/daniels-io