Remote Central Locking Receiver Module

13 replies [Last post]
helijohn
helijohn's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 20/10/2014
  • Posts:

I know it is the wrong section really as I am trying to locate the RCLRM in my Junior but I am sort of hoping it might be in a common place on both the iO and the Junior.  I want to locate it so I can tap into the wiring that feeds the central locking so I can fit my own remote CL/Alarm unit.

Work in progress on my just acquired delapidated  2003 Vivo 11 Junior in need of TLC    

Do it right, use Hammerite.

Why simpify when it is simpler to complicate.

 

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #1
Just tap into the driver's door lock wiring.

Most central lock remote kits provide a negative pulse output that can be wired to the driver's side door switch - the wiring is usually readily accessible in the driver's side footwell.  I'm not familiar with the Jr wiring, but this is the safest way to do it on the iO, trying to tap the lock solenoid wiring is a sure fire way to burning the ETACS module.

helijohn
helijohn's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 20/10/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #2
How to find the leads I want

fordem wrote:

Most central lock remote kits provide a negative pulse output that can be wired to the driver's side door switch - the wiring is usually readily accessible in the driver's side footwell.  I'm not familiar with the Jr wiring, but this is the safest way to do it on the iO, trying to tap the lock solenoid wiring is a sure fire way to burning the ETACS module.

Yes, I do that sometimes but the unit is next to the glove box and very very handy.

Well I found the module and I simply need to select the appropriate lead that powers the door solenoids.  I can remove the connector and that way the module will not be vulnerable.

My thinking is to do like I did on other cars like the Rav4 and Jimny and put an earthed probe light to the leads to see which are hot and which will trigger the door solenoids.  Do you like that?

 

BTW, what's an ETACS module, I can never work out achronyms.

Work in progress on my just acquired delapidated  2003 Vivo 11 Junior in need of TLC    

Do it right, use Hammerite.

Why simpify when it is simpler to complicate.

 

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #3
Electronic Time & Alarm Control System

Google it - the first hit should take you to a Mitsubishi page.

helijohn
helijohn's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 20/10/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #4
i would have Googled it eventually

fordem wrote:

Google it - the first hit should take you to a Mitsubishi page.

 

So is this an alarm module I have?  I thought it was just an central locking contraption!"  I haven't had it go off etc.etc.

Work in progress on my just acquired delapidated  2003 Vivo 11 Junior in need of TLC    

Do it right, use Hammerite.

Why simpify when it is simpler to complicate.

 

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #5
I'm have no clue what the Jr has

I'm just saying that IF it's similar to the iO, connecting your remote controller to the input of the ETACS will be safer and easier that driving the solenoids directly.

helijohn
helijohn's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 20/10/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #6
Door or module end, either will do

fordem wrote:

I'm just saying that IF it's similar to the iO, connecting your remote controller to the input of the ETACS will be safer and easier that driving the solenoids directly.

 

 

 

 

The remote has its own "ETACS".  This is the one I fit.  

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Central-Lock-Locking-Remote-Keyless-Car-Al...

All I do is tap into the wires that go to the door but I want to find them at the control unit end rather than the door end.  It should be two of these.

 

I'll be removing the driver door card to spray the cavity with Waxoyl soon;  I can get the colour code of the wires then.

 

 

Work in progress on my just acquired delapidated  2003 Vivo 11 Junior in need of TLC    

Do it right, use Hammerite.

Why simpify when it is simpler to complicate.

 

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #7
You haven't figured out where I'm coming from yet ...

and since you're going to do it exactly how you choose, I'll let you proceed - it might work on a Jr, but on an iO, you'll end up letting the magic smoke out.

helijohn
helijohn's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 20/10/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #8
Same difference

fordem wrote:

and since you're going to do it exactly how you choose, 

 

Not at all - I want us to be in accord before I do anything.  I haven't yet bought the alarm unit but it will be one of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190813468720?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPa...

Surely the wires in the door (that operate the open/close) will go to the module and all I have to do is tap into them at the module end.  This will save running wires through the door and it will be easisr to work on as it is easily accessible by the glove box.  Oh yes, also it is where I want the alarm unit to be fitted too!

 

 

 

Work in progress on my just acquired delapidated  2003 Vivo 11 Junior in need of TLC    

Do it right, use Hammerite.

Why simpify when it is simpler to complicate.

 

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #9
It's not about location ...

You can mount your controller anywhere you choose and run wire half way around the vehicle if it suits you - what makes the difference is whether you connect your controller to the input of the ETACS or to the output that controls the lock solenoid/motor - the safe way to connect it is to the input that comes from the driver's door lock

helijohn
helijohn's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 20/10/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #10
too short

fordem wrote:

You can mount your controller anywhere you choose and run wire half way around the vehicle if it suits you - 

 

The wiring on the unit is fairly short.

As for the door end or the module end, A or B, wire is wire and one can tap into it at any point.

Work in progress on my just acquired delapidated  2003 Vivo 11 Junior in need of TLC    

Do it right, use Hammerite.

Why simpify when it is simpler to complicate.

 

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #11
Wires can be extended ...

and like I said before, you haven't figured out where I'm coming from yet.

Good luck.

helijohn
helijohn's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 20/10/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #12
Now we agree

fordem wrote:

and like I said before, you haven't figured out where I'm coming from yet.

Good luck.

 

You are dead right there!

Work in progress on my just acquired delapidated  2003 Vivo 11 Junior in need of TLC    

Do it right, use Hammerite.

Why simpify when it is simpler to complicate.

 

helijohn
helijohn's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 20/10/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #13
Update

I located the two wires that control the lock and unlock at the module.  For reference, just in case anyone eles likes to know, they are Green/White (or maybe green with a white tracer) and brown and sit next to each other.  I did as I usually do which is to use a probe light to earth and I found them right away.  I cheated a bit cos I new the two on the right were power leads from ealier tests.laugh

 

 

 

I used a dodge that I have use twice before.  Because the wires are thin (it's a cheap Chinese alarm unit see; one of these.....   http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360617413905?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ) I simply tin solder the wire ends on the leads from the alarm unit (white and white/black in the pic) and push fit them into the harness.  It saves having to hack at the wiring harness and in many years (where I could find the module) it has never let me down and that's on 3 previous installations.  It looks a bit Heath Robinson but it works as long as the wires are held securely with tape, or like here, with zip ties.

 

So I didn't have to take off the door card, nor run a wire from the door lock to the new alarm unit, nor splice into the wires in the footwell.  

 

It was easy peasy, so easy that I had the basic alarm installed in a few hours.  I did it much the same ways as on my now departed Pinin.

Work in progress on my just acquired delapidated  2003 Vivo 11 Junior in need of TLC    

Do it right, use Hammerite.

Why simpify when it is simpler to complicate.

 

Syndicate

Syndicate content

Translate This Site Into Your Language