Best Tire size and type? What Have you / Are you using?
Whats the best brand and size?
Kumhos
BF Goodrich
Inca Turbo retreads
Micky Tompsons
etc?
29s and 30s seem to be the common favorite? for lifted Pajero iOs with supporting mods to the front struts (spring seat moved out of the way)
31s are not un common. Some run 32s
Some pics of iOs with various sizes
29s
235/70/16 Pininokios car
Pics from Pinin on the rocks
31s
245/75/16
32s
235/85/16 Pics of Themis car
I need to find more pictures with different sizing, Post them up if you have any! If you dont know how to post pics, Instructions are here.
i thing that it all depends
i thing that it all depends on the budget the use (off road/mud /rocks) and the height.right know i have tagom mud sprot 215/80/16 and they re much better than bf s cheaper but a lot heavier.they ride more than great in mud they re really good on wet /dry road they dont work that good at snow.i wouldnt recomend insa turbo sahara..iwould also recomend to lower gear ratio if you use anything above 30 s so that you wont loose power
Good point! This is one
Good point!
This is one reason I wanted to make adjustable suspension, So that I can change the ride height depending on what wheels I am using at the time.
This may prove to be a pain in the arse tho?!
What can be done to change the gear ratios? Will the 5.11 from the auto 1.8 swap in? http://www.pajerio.com/forum/swap-511-crown-and-pinon-auto-48-manual-paj...
Or is it only the low range that people have changed sofar? http://www.pajerio.com/forum/change-lowrange-gearing-1548-1925-delica-parts
the 5.11 from 1.8 is the best
the 5.11 from 1.8 is the best solution right now and it fits just fine.right now we ve only managed to change the low range(themis).
generally it is very easy to adjust a coilover suspension but once you lift it believe me you will leave it lifted for ever and even want more\
Legal option
Hi Guys,
unfortunatly in most states in Australia you cannot go bigger than 15mm from stock :(
i'm running 215/70-16 Michelline Latitude Cross tyres and they are miles ahead of kumo's or BFG's. They grip really well on the bitumen in the wet and are excelent on rocks and mud. Drove around Tassie with these and didn't find anything that stopped me much to the suprise of moded nissan owners in the local 4wd club ;)
bonus is that my spedo is now running accurate
if you are looking to stay stock or within legal limits i'd recomend them hands down
Thanks
Ill have the check them out.
Ill have the check them out. They look like they would be a dam good all around tire! But sure they would be the best in mud mud tho?
doing a QLD trip be too long,, Ill have to come check it out :)
Im in the process of making my Improved production race car road legal with the larger and wider tires, Id assume its just as easy to get a 4x4 legal? this is in Victoria tho, I hear QLD is a pain in the arse?
These look close do what your
These look close do what your running Pininokio ?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Insa-Turbo-SAHARA-205-80R16-M-T-4wd-4x4-mud-tyre-...
An interesting article on the
An interesting article with good things to say about the Kumho KL71 from Rick Crosbie, a Sports truck off road Racer
Hey guys, I own a 2001 io
Hey guys,
I own a 2001 io 1.8ltr, i have 225/70/16 federal at/s surprisingly good as they are alot cheaper than most brands around $170 a pop, if you get the tire place to put these size tyres on they will just list it as being brought in loose (as in not on the car) they fit under the strut comfortably at 28.5 inches only thing is that it drains the power a bit without an exhaust or snorkel. most rego places ect. wont even check the tyre size at all so if you go a bit bigger it is ok.
Welcome BEBE! I plan on
Welcome BEBE!
I plan on having much the same setup as the blue one from Brazil with the 31s also.
I think the latter model Brazilian TR4 had struts that allow the fitment of larger tires, Im not sure how large though. They also space the std wheels out or run wheels closer to 0 offset.
But I assume yours will have the same requirements as mine,
- Minimum 50mm lift
- modification to the struts by moving the spring purch up enough to clear your tires (this can be part of the lift), Or better yet, stick on some custom coilovers. Coilovers use smaller diameter springs and the tires do not interfere with them.
- Trim the bumper/s where they interfere with the tires.
I think thats it. For more info on this and lifts check here http://www.pajerio.com/forum/lift-options-tires-sizes-look-here-first
Thank you for your fast
Thank you for your fast reply...
So if I get this correct i can use original rim with 46mm insert then it is 0 offset becaouse original rim is i think et 46?
Hes anyone done a coilover and if so what coils to use?maybee from some other car?
For the front I will do the 30 mm front diff drop and I wonder what about the rear end?exept spring changing is tere some more customization???
That is correct, Some people
That is correct, Some people do not like adding offset to the wheels due to the extra load on the bearings etc, But I have not heard any negative feedback from the many people that have done it yet.
You could also do a coil over conversion instead, that would eliminate the need to use as much, if any offset on the wheels.
A few people have done coilover conversions to there io's, the nice thing about coilovers is the large amount of off the shelf coils available. Any spring rate and length you could want. Coilover springs are generic, so there is no need to use ones for another car. They are also cheap enough that you could have more than one set, A softer set for rock crawling, one for the street, sand, flatter tracks, and maybe something inbetween, etc. The rears are not to hard to change either. Longer springs or spacers should do the job. Im going to have a ride height adjuster in combonation with a longer spring to allow adjustment between 50 and 100mm lift.
I have designed a coilover set for my Pajero iO but need to pull my finger out and finish having it made.
Body Rub
Hi
I see that some guys have fitted larger tires but would like to know,
- Does the tire rub against the inner wall / fender?
- What offset rims are you guys with 235/70r15 on?
I've got 225/70r16 on standard rims and on full lock, I've got some body rub.
Jaco
Body Rub
Glen, thats at full lock.
Looking at the tires the IO was factory fitted with, 215 wide and now 225 (meaning 5mm per side wider), its hard to think that 5mm would cause that servere body rub. If I fit wheelspacers / other rims should I go more or less than the half increase in width? (245-215 = 30 / 2 = 15)
Now I want to fit 235 / 245 (20 and 30mm wider) plus a 15" rim with an offset of +-30mm (46 - 15), except for the negative affect that the resulting bending force is excerting on the wheel bearings, the offset should also change the turning dinamics. The centerline of the rim would be 15mm further away from the point where it pivots to turn? Will this not cause the wheel to hit the fender while turning?
Jaco
225/70 are also 14mm larger
225/70 are also 14mm larger in diameter than the 215/70 Thats 7mm further out plus the 5mm extra width, Plus not all manufacturers are exact on these measurements, Need to check sometimes.
But I still would not have thought it would rub at such a small increase in size.
Your on the right track, IF width was the ONLY thing you were increasing then your spacer calculations would be correct. But the larger diameter of 235 or 245s will cause more of a problem than the extra width. If you use a tyre calculator something like this one http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html you can check the variation in diameter of different tyres
You should not get measurable bending from the offset change, there will be a small amount of flex in the struts and body of the car, but most of that will be on the outside wheels in a turn, or other situations that will cause the top of the wheel to flex away from the car. not towards it. Under heavy breaking or acceleration (in 4x4) the wheels will push back (braking ) and pull forward (accelerating) a small amount due to the flex in the tie rod rubbers.
But none of this is really relevant to tyre choice, Just make sure you have good clearance, you will need it to avoid problems with mud build up etc anyway.
You have got me thinking tho! even with my 2" spacers (-5ish offset) i think i will be close with 31s (245/75/16)
225/70R16 is substansially
225/70R16 is substansially larger in diameter than the factory fitted wheels (215/65R16)
> 225 x 0.7 x 2 + 16 x 25.4 = 721.4mm
> 215 x 0.65 x 2 + 16 x 25.4 = 685.9mm
Diff in diameter = 35.5mm. This results in a "lift" of 17.75mm. (almost a 3/4")
Now going to 245/70R15
> 245 x 0.7 + 15 x 25.4 = 724mm
Not much bigger than the ones if currently got but im worried about body rub. Going to buy a 15" steel rim (jeep) with an offset of 38mm offset and adding a 10mm spacer to make up the diff in flange thickness of the original rim (not to change studs or nuts) and correct the differance in center bore diameter.
Still worried about the body rub though. Might just test fit one and see. 
oops, i had the stock at .70
oops, i had the stock at .70 not .65
another idea is to try bolting the wheels on with washers spacing them out just to see how the body rub is (not for driving :) , then get whatever size spacer you need. Ortho the std studs are short due to the Mitsubishi alloy mag style nuts, so this might be hard to do.
OR, do some calculations and cut out some cardboard to test it, pull a wheel off, rest the rotor on a block of wood with the steering wheel at full lock, stick the cardboard against the rotor and see how she goes.
Actually on other thoughts,
Actually on other thoughts, if you dont have a suspension lift that might make the difference between 225/70's rubbing or not? I fully locked the steering the other day and it definately doesnt rub on mine. I know what you mean sometimes it is hard to avoid fully locking the steering.
Look forward to seeing some pics. :)
I must say im pretty happy
I must say im pretty happy with the 31s (245/75/16) BF goodrich, I consider them a nice All terrain, not to noisy and still pretty good in the mud. they are pushing the limit as big as you can get away with on a stock setup with coilovers. (no spacers or bumper trimming etc. there is a little rubbing on the rear mud flaps when compressed.
I also have a TJM front bar, Im not sure how the STD bumper would go? there is also some rubbing at almost FULL lock on the front
Once i have finished a heap of other mods im probably going to go with some 33s or 34s for comp and serious driving, but for now It does dam well with the 31s!
Hi, I've got dobinson spring
Hi,
I've got dobinson spring lift kit in my IO and I was hoping for some advice on tyre size. I've noticed some 245/75/16's in one of the photos on the stock Mitsubishi rims but measuring the distances I just don't see how I would have the clearance for that from the bottome of the springs on the front. I'm fairly new to this so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
245/75/16
Hello,
The bigger pb to fit bigger size tyres are the actual bottom spring plate. Fitting different spring won't help. It seems that the io have two different strut, some 2002 2 litres model have that spring plate higher that the older model. But all is not lost! I have the 2002 model, with 215/70/16 bfg all terrain and fit perfectly ( yes a far cry from 245/75/16), with good speedo. I am going to fit the 225/75/16 on Wednesday and it is a tight fit. Anything bigger you will have to modified the strut, and get rim with a different size and offset.
If you keep reading this forum, you will found more info (a lot of it!) as this is a common question. In Members Rides & Builds, check Glen's, he does have some great pics and advices, but other have too:), I think he does have the biggers tyres, yes the 245/75/16 km2...
Thanks, that helps
Thanks, that helps alot 225/75/16 would be big enough for me anyway at 29 inches, perhaps you could let me know how you get on ? I see yours is the two litre though so I wonder if the spring plate is higher on yours ? I've measured and I might just get away with 225/75/16 so that would be perfect but I guess I might just have to find some way of trying it to find out probbaly by buying one and fitting it, have you got standard Mitsubishi rims ?
225/75/16 and strut size
Hello, I am still waiting for my tyre... but I thought I would give you more info on the strut. You can see in Granthem's2002 io built thread, how he measured the strut I have done the same from just under the weld of the bottom strut plate and the lower part of the strut I found 265 mm, same as Granthem.
So if your is around 25 mm less, chances you won't be able to fit the bigger tyres without any modification to the strut.
Be careful with tyre, check the actual real size of it, my 215 A/T are 221, and the 225 km2, I want are 223...this could explain why other found the 225/75/16 too big for they car.
The km2 cost around $300, don't buy one just to try:) you could own a few before you are happy! I went to the tyres shop and told them I needed 4 new tyres/rims and wanted to try if the 225/75/16 km2 fitted. They put one on for free, and yes it is a bit tight and there is only 3 mm gap in full lock. That makes me a $1200 customer, they happy, I am happy! At the worst they will charge you a small fee.
At first I wanted to put new rims with different offset to be able to fit this size tyre, but they fitted so I am happy with the original rim. I still can get new ones if needed. ( ie if the tyres touch too much in full lock). Check Natsterr built with the "magic" mazda wheel, or another great one with the FTO wheel by Bob-oz in "suspension..." for more info.
I had the yokohama geolander and they were great on the road, but I didn't like them while doing 4x4. I fitted the bfg a/t and I found them to have a great grip in steep rocky hills, not the best in the mud, and good for the everyday uses (I push my car a bit more while doing some 4x4, not so much on the road) Overall a big improvement while on the dirt. I choose the km2 because the review are much better than the a/t, so it has to be good.(I hope...$1200) I have read than the km2 is not the best for the sand (not the best doesn't mean bad) and I don't go often on the beach. And they look great!
Most review are done with heavier car, so a fast wearing tyre on a landcruiser might still be perfect for the light io...or worst!
I will post some pics with the new tyres.
Please note that what I found to be good might be your worst nightmare! and I am just like you, learning...
Check the law in your state before doing any modification. I hope that this helped you a bit....happy io
. 
..
Houston we have a problem
On Monday I ordered 4 225/75 16 Kumho KL71 muddies to go on my shiny new FTO rims. That was before I saw this post saying there is an early and late strut. So I just did a measure up and sure enough my 1999 1.8l 5 door only measures 245mm vs 265 on the later struts, so I guess my new tyres won't fit.
I'm tossing up now whether to change the order for something smaller (how much smaller would I need to go?) or go for some lift by either shifting the spring perch up with new springs, or fitting coil overs and dropping the front diff. And of course the rear needs to come up too....
Not sure I'm up for all that much effort and cost...
Bugger!
I am very sorry about that,
The harder thing to modified this car is knowledge of what to do and how to do it and can it be done, you have that. For me, I have my km2 for a short while and NO WAY I am going back to smaller tyres, the extra grip, and lift makes the car much better offroad. So I think that it is worthwhile to not giving up, you will love them. Most mod will bring the need for another!! and you are nearly there.
Depending what you want out of the io should guide you for the next step. For me I didn't want/need to over doing it, and wanting to stay close to specs. By changing the strut unit by new one (by the higher spring perch), keeping the same spring, your ride should be a bit firmer (new shock in the unit) but that is it.
You could modified your strut and do some welding, and change the insert, might be cheaper, but a bit more works.
By fitting coil over, You don't have to lift your car, or do a diff drop now, your tyres will fit without. you will be able to get bigger tyres later down the track, and lift your car. You will have to get some advice on what spring, shock, to fit.. A bit more involve but it does open more doors for further modification. I haven't gone that way but other have and I am not the best to give advices here.
Don't get new strut and cut them next year to fit bigger tyres:)
Just, take one step back, relax, read a bit more and think:) IT CAN BE DONE!
All the very best,
Happy io.
225/75/16 no modification
I know some of you waited for this! me too! This is it, my 2002 io with new tyres 225/75/16 BF Goodrich KM 2, no modification (original strut and rim), just out of the tyre shop. Yes not the biggest tyre around, but I wanted it that way:)
First feel is good, first look too:) (and second look too!) a bit noisy, sound like a worn wheel bearing, but I don't mind and it is reasonable. Cost $1200, but my A/T lasted 80 000km, and are still ok, so if these last the same, they will be cheaper per km than a road tyre.
The clearance looks good, and the car is 25 mm higher. I have measured the print of the old tyres, at different pressure. I will do the same with the new one and share them a bit later.
I still have to try them a bit longer, the clearance in full lock is very small (3 or 4 mm, 12 mm with the 215/70/16)
It has been raining here, I am going to look for mud? !(with my fishing rod!)...mad..mad...mud...:)
The side of the car has been hit by a roo, all fixed, but I am still waiting for new front mud flap...
Happy io...
225/75/16 speedo
Yes, I found the same, the speedo is 5% out. I used my GPS with the other tyres 215/70/16 bfg A/T and it was perfect. Again using the GPS with the 225/75/16 KM I am doing 105km/h while the GPS is at 100km/h. While this could sound to be a big problem, 5% out is only noticeable at speed over 80km/h; 5% at 60 km/h is only 3km/h out...I can live with that. For the petrol, last week I have done a fair amount of 4x4 (the car drinks a lot more then), and I am waiting for a full tank of petrol on my normal everyday drive to compare.
Yes I will take into account the 5% for the consumption
I will post more finding around friday/saturday...
As always Happy io...
My tyres
I am back from the petrol station, and I have to say that I am very surprise with the result. The car used to drink around 10l/100km with the geolandar G033 215/65/16, and when up to 11l/100km with the 215/70/16 bfg a/t. I am now at 10.4l/100km, calculation done taking into account the bigger rolling diameter of the tyre (+5%). Not a big difference but I expected more, so less is great:) and it is a sign that the car doesn't mind!
I mesured the lenght of the footprint of both tyres the old a/t and the new km2 (these are not precise, but I used the same system everytime)
215/70/16 bfg a/t
38psi, my every day driving pressure, a bit stiff but...23cm
18psi, the lowest I used doing 4x4...26.5cm
225/75/16 I still have to play a bit more to find the best pressure, anyway
38psi;.........26cm
18psi...........29cm
15psi, stronger sidewall and should be fine.......30cm
Again, not a big difference, but it help.
I found the G 033 geolandar great to bring the kid to school! but lots of loose wheel spin in steep hill. So great on road, but bad off road.
Then I found on the net someone in greece that said a lot of good thing about the 215/70/16 bfg A/T, so I bought 4. And they were still good on road, and a very big improvement on steep hill. I done 80 000km and they could last for another 10000km. These tyres made my car a lot more enjoyable/capable on dirt road/ 4x4.
Now I have the 225/75/16 bfg KM2, and a bit early to tell "all about it". I thought the 215/70/16 were the top 4x4 tyres....I was wrong! as soon as I hit the dirt road I could feel the difference, what a grip! (safer) again this is a lot better than the A/T even in steep hill. The size have lifted my car and it is a good thing too. But what I gain in 4x4 I have lost a bit on road, they are a bit noisy (I don't really hear them anymore but...) and at higher speed the car is "wandering" a bit more than before, the thicker tyres made the steering not as precise and I can feel it while doing a fast change of lane. I drove on wet road and no problem.
My comment of these tyres are personals, and while I name brand and size, other might be better. Still, this should help you decide to go for a road pattern, an all terrain or a muddy. My every day drive is mostly highway, I am a quiet driver, so no fast cornering...:) and it is more important for me to feel confidant that I can come back from a trip doing 4x4 than changing lane quickly. Someone died last winter in the Brindabella, by not be able to come back. So yes I am very happy with the muddies, much safer on the dirt road/4x4 but you have to use them! don't put them on your wife car just to bring the kids to school! And OMG they look good:)
For the car wandering a bit more, I will try to adjust the caster angle when I will lift my car.
Tyres sizes do change from one brand to another, 225 for bfg might be smaller/bigger than another 225.
I hope this help a few...
Happy io.
Tyres sizes on 1999io
I am not sure on that one, I don't think that you can do much bigger if any bigger at all. If you want to do a bit more 4x4, replacing, modifying these struts would be the best mod you can do. I am very lucky to have the higher strut:) but if I hadn't, they would have been replaced!
See if your local tyres shop could try a few for you, they have been very helpful for me.
Happy io.
Caster angle?
Are you confusing caster & camber? Caster is the front/back tilt of the steering axis, camber is the side/side tilt.
Camber is usually fairly easy to adjust - either with camber bolts or camber plates, but the plates will require modification to the top of the strut tower
Caster angle is not usually adjustable in a MacPherson strut front end - you can either use a plate at the top (like camber plates and the same caveat applies - the strut tower will require modification) or you could cut the "strut bar" (I think that's what Mitsubishi calls it) - the diagonal bar in front of the strut - thread the ends and screw them in to a turnbuckle - but - because of the rubber mounts I think it'll lack precision.
For the wandering - I would look at the camber first - if the camber is not equal on both wheels the vehicle will pull in one direction or the other, and if there is any sag in the springs, the camber changes with the load in the vehicle - this I believe is the problem on my vehicle, but I won't know until I change the springs, which I hope to do next year.
Syndicate
That last one looks sweet
That last one looks sweet without the front bumper.