Glendon's iO
I purchased my beloved iO in early 2012. I though that it is about time I posted some photos.
Here is my stock iO with Roof Racks.
I have since added the following.
Bullbar
UHF
Kenwood Stereo
Sony Xplods
Maxxis Bravo AT's
Roof Basket
Ironman Gamma 175 Lights
My next thing is a set of KYB shocks as mine are showing signs of getting old and a new Bash Plate.
Other than that, I have been off road a few times up Kinglake way and my iO has performed brilliantly. I would really like to give it a go in the sand as I think it will go well.
I am located about 15min from Whittlesea. If there is anyone in my area I would love to go out one afternoon.
Earlier this week I received
Earlier this week I received my suspension and I finally got around to installing it. I purchased 4x new KYB struts with the lifted strut pan. I also purchased 4x new King Springs.
Before I started I measured the distance from the ground to the wheel arch on each wheel.
Before
Driver Front: 765mm
Rear: 790mm
Passenger Front: 780mm
Rear: 810mm
After
Driver Front: 825mm
Rear: 850mm
Passenger Front: 820mm
Rear: 845mm
I am very happy with the set up. The ride is about 50% more comfortable and the steering is much more direct.
I also put my old bashplate back on my car. When I swapped my front bar for Glens BullBar, I had to remove the bashplate. I finally got around to drilling some new holes and putting on the bashplate.
Interesting numbers there...
Back when I was struggling with camber issues I found it hard to believe that I was the only one - and here are the numbers that show I wasn't - driver's side front on this car was a full 15mm lower than the passenger side - assuming the tires to be the same size, pressure & state of wear (which is why it's recommended to measure from the lowest point of the rim), which is pretty much what I was seeing,
That difference is enough to cause unequal (and variable) camber which is the cause of the wandering steering.
longer springs
on the stock Io the drivers side are about 1" of coil longer - about 10mm free length longer -
considering the steering collumn and pedal box probably weigh 30-50kg i can understand.
since the weekend my drivers side is now sitting about 15mm lower than the passengers side - new springs settling in - i'll pack them level with the top bushing once I put the 20mm strut-top spacer in.
Mischief
Got up to some mischief on the weekend, and thought I should share some photos of my adventure.
Unfortunately the front of the iO got caught up on a rut and was sitting on the ground, and the rear had one wheel off the ground. So I had zero movement.
I don't think my iO has the rear LSD because when I tried to reverse out I just span one front when and one rear wheel.
I had to call a friend up to KingLake to come and tow me out with his 100 Series LandCruiser, however then he got bogged in the same spot with Lockers. I then pulled him out.
These are Singlecell's tyres on the car. There is rubbing on the front but not the rear. I am going to get some front spaces made up and do a diff drop to stop the rubbing.
This rear wheel in not on the ground :(.
My iO got some new tint on this side. :P
helical gear LSD
I don't think my iO has the rear LSD because when I tried to reverse out I just span one front when and one rear wheel.
Helical gear LSDs won't drive either wheel if one has no traction (is spinning freely) - there's a thread where it's discussed, but I don't think a method of determing if an LSD was fitted was ever agreed on - short of pulling the third member.
My iO fails the classic LSD test - if you jack the rear and rotate on wheel, the other rotates in the opposite direction - which is the norm for an open diff - a clutch type LSD will rotate both wheels in the same direction, but I have no idea what a helical LSD will do.
Confused ?!
So I am confused. Does a helical gear LSD not help when off road and you get one rear wheel stuck in the air?
Yes it does help when doing off road, no it doesn't help when you get one rear wheel stuck in the air.
LSD diff only do work when you have a difference in torque in both wheel by transferring torque side to side but you will need inequal but existing resistance in both wheel for it to do his magic. Once one wheel loose 100% traction/resistance, the LSD will work the same as an open diff. As Fordem mentioned, search LSD diff, for a full explanation, or best.... skip it and get a real diff lock :)
Happy io
To be honest yes. See that
To be honest yes. See that chunk out off it. That was a rock from the back of a truck. The deflector flicked the rock up to the top of my windscreen and put a little chip in it. I think it would have done much more damage if I didn't have the deflector.
bullbar
it is a generic style bar that is modified for various makes i.e. feroza / rocky / explorer / brumby etc - if you get one from a similar car you realise they are all the same +/- a few centimeters. The mounts are the tricky bit.
Also none of these can (should) be mounted on cars with airbags as they do not comply with crumple "G" rates
no-one except parkside make bars for the io today and none for airbags - ECB will make one to order if you harrass them enough but you'll pay through the nose for it!
I have not posed here for a
I have not posed here for a while, so I though I should.
1-2 months ago I was getting Rex ready for a weekend away, by installing some 50mm front shock spacers to match the 50mm rear spring spacers. After many hours of messing around on the Friday night, I finally got them in and Rex was ready to go.
Off we go on Saturday morning to find our first track, I put Rex into Low and there is a mild knocking sounds..... Bugger. I continued on over a few ruts only to find that Rex was very unhappy, so I agreed to leave Rex behind for the day and continue on.
After many months of thinking about what could be wrong, I decided to actually go and work it out. To day I got a new CV put in, unfortunately there was still a bad sounds. Turns out the Transfer is shot to you know where.
So I was hoping to go on another trip on Saturday the 1st, but I don't think that is going to happen.
Today I also installed some Pedders 8128 rear shocks from the Hilux, so that I could have some more Flex.
So all in all, I am a bit annoyed but at least I know what the problem is.
Cheers
Pb....
What do you mean by ..."Turns out the Transfer is shot to you know where." and what CV did you replace ? ourter or inner ? I have the feeling that you may have replaced only the outer.....and the noise you described could have been from the inner CV (knocking noise while driving in straight line under load) The outer CV is mostly noisy when turning.
I still have my auto transfer case, some internal parts could be identical, if you find what is faulty inside yours and if I have the parts....it's yours....
Happy Rex....soon :)
lower gear
Do we ?
are going to fit the 2.85 lower gear ? let us know how you go...
I think that you may want to do what Bob did instead, it might be better to fit them on your good transfer case, wouldn't be ?
Lower gear, one or the other will greatly help to compensate your oversized tyres
If you do the 2.85, and want to buy the gears, I might give up on the idea of doing mine and sell you the gear I have. They are new.
$150 for inner and outer new CV ? this is the bargain of the year....very very well done 
Pity your friend didn't check the car before going ahead doing them, as a mechanics it would have been easy for him to diagnose the car properly. I know understand why you have been annoyed about it !!!
Happy io
I am going to go with the
I am going to go with the 1:1.92 gears. I am having soooo much trouble getting a set for the right price. I have been quoted $275 for the whole transfer case, but I really only want the 2 gears.
I have posted on the Pajero Club forum, but have not had a responce. In desprate need for a blown T/Case.
There is a Pull-A-Part local to me, however they cant tell me if it is the correct car or not. :(
Does anyone know if you can pull out these gears without removing the whole T/Case?
Also the CV probably needed replacing anyway, so probably good that I got it done.
Cheers
GOR
t case
hi,
you'll need to pull the t-case off the gearbox as the gears are in the front of the tcase.
check the VIN plate on the doner pajero - the gearbox and engine are listed on it so you'll be able to tell if it is the correct vehicle.
first rip off the gearshifter from the box and once inside the box you'll have to tap out the roll pin holding the shifter yoke in place - a 5.5mm punch is perfect.
you can then pull the transfer case out from underneath as long as you lower the back of the gearbox down (insert dodgy car jack) so the tcase clears the floor when moving backwards, just rip out the gearbox to tcase bolts then crowbar the sucker off and dump it on the ground.
once the tcase is out and on the ground you go in first via the gearshifter hole you'll need some circlip pliers with a 60 or 90deg bend on the end to get in to remove the circlip holding the input bearing in place. once the circlip is off undo the front plate of the tcase and crowbar that sucker off too - moving the tcase shifter forward/backwards violently helps.
once off pull the laygear shaft straight out and then fish out the lay gear and the fron input gear - do a tooth count to make sure it is right then you're done.
you'll need 12mm ring spanner, 13mm ring spanner for tailshaft uni's, 14mm socket and ring spanner, breaker bar, ratchet, crowbar, 5.5mm punch, circlip pliers, car jack, some bad-ass-ness in you.
read my post on taking the io box appart - basically the same EXCEPT with the full size paj's you need to remove the circlip first as the front cover doesn't come off with the input bearing still attached.
call me if you have any q's
Thank you for that detailed
Thank you for that detailed information.
Fortunately someone from the Pajero club forum for back to me. Is anyone able to confirm what he is saying in post 15?
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=30803&page=2
Cheers GOR
confirmation
just replying to him now,
1) tooth count needs to be exact, input gear has 16 teeth, 21 splines and is 28mm diameter, Low range (idler) gears has 21 teeth on one end and 15 teeth on the other
2) you will need a new bearing, snap ring and circlip by the looks of the photo
there are other spacers etc but they appear to be fitted on the picture.
* all snap rings and circlips are graduated for wear in the case, I'd buy the standard size ones and wing it.
bearing MD704119
circlip MD704204*
snap ring MD704199*
prices from amayama:
| 1 | Mitsubishi | MD704119 | BEARING | 48.71 | 48.71 | 0.650 | Delete | |
| 2 | Mitsubishi | MD704204 | 3.57 | 3.57 | 0.010 | Delete | ||
| 3 | Mitsubishi | MD704199 | 2.90 | 2.90 | 0.010 | Delete | ||
| Total | 55.18 | 0.670 | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
amayama.com would be the best source of parts - you could re-use the circlip off your bearing however i'd er on the side of buying a new one.
t case gears
Thank you! So if I buy these 3 items and get hold of these gears from m1s3ry it should be good to go? Cheers Glendon
if you buy those items and press the bearing on it should be right as long as the gears are good. It doesn't look like the oil lips are damaged at all.
i'd confirm that the gears are the right ones first and get them in your posesion, confirm they are servicable second THEN look at buying the bearings etc.
in all saying this the gear should be right to go - just need to be careful to make sure the bearing is pressed on correctly using the inner race, place the gear in the freezer first and the bearing likely will drop straight on. you might want some retaining compound inder the brearing anyway.
All dressed up and nowhere to go
Nothing better than to put your back against the wall to get some work done to your car.
I was going on a 4wd trip for a few days with some mates. In order for Rex to be ready, I had to replace the transfer case, re-install the front 50mm shock spacers, install the rear Pan Hard Rod, get made and installed diff drop spacers and replace the inner passenger cv boot. All in 2 days time!!!
Managed to get all of this done, only to find out that the 4wd trip was canceled :(
Rex is looking fantastic though.
Just need to install my snorkel and winch, which I already have. Just need to install it.
All dressed up and nowhere to go
Nothing better than to put your back against the wall to get some work done to your car.
I was going on a 4wd trip for a few days with some mates. In order for Rex to be ready, I had to replace the transfer case, re-install the front 50mm shock spacers, install the rear Pan Hard Rod, get made and installed diff drop spacers and replace the inner passenger cv boot. All in 2 days time!!!
Managed to get all of this done, only to find out that the 4wd trip was canceled :(
Rex is looking fantastic though.
Just need to install my snorkel and winch, which I already have. Just need to install it.
Hey Glendon , I am thinking
Hey Glendon , I am thinking of running 245/75/16 on my io aswell on standard rims . i was wondering do you have much of a gap between the tire and side of the strut ? I will be running spacers. i need to know what minium width they can be . Cheers Niall
6.5 rim
I think that he understood that, I hope anyway:) But this will give him the needed spacer size that he wanted. This said, I would check that a 245 tyre can be fitted on a 6 inch rim (io rim) . BFG advise to have at least 6.5 inch
Happy io
most / all outlander rims are 6.5, as are the VRX lancer rims
Syndicate
Nice! That bull bar looks
Nice!
That bull bar looks familiar! :)
Yippy i-O
31s 245/75/16 BFGs(33s next) 5" lift Coilovers with 290mm stroke. - 5.29 diffs with Kaiser Lockers.