Heat shield........on or off
Shocked
What is the red car in the background? It is not a Pajero Junior is it? Looks nice.
The red car in the background is my 5 door, Pajero iO, apart from the paint (and the roof rack) identical to the silver one.
The picture was taken from the upper floor of my daughter's office after I parked my iO alongside.
Oh nice. It looked shorter so had me fooled. Thought it might be a 3 door Pinin or Pajero Junior.
Roof rack
Hi Claude
Good to hear from you again. Thanks for the info. I think i will need to visit a roofrack specialist and see what they can come up with.
Check out my build; I finally put some pic's up. Will add a few later with beter angles on where I've been. Thanks for all the help on the bash plate.
Got a foto of that as well. will get better with time (pic's I mean).
Thanks
Ettienne IO
Stay away from clip on roof racks!!
I have seen one set up on an io for sell. I don't really like it but it is one option. He drilled through the roof to fit the bracket, similar to the famous bamboo rack http://pajerio.com/forum/bamboo-roof-rack-anyone
Here is the car, maybe you could contact him about it ?? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/richardson/cars-vans-utes/2000-mitsubishi...
Simmo have another set up, again not very strong from what I read http://pajerio.com/forum/simmos-io
Ben have a rola system, he have done a big trip with a roof tent too http://pajerio.com/forum/bens-io
Have you try a roof rack specialist, at least to give you some idea ?
I remember someone making something to get stronger fixation showing some nice pics but I couldn't find it.
I hope that you find something
Happy io
CORRECT! I have not used my roof racks after its first trip where the max tracks decided to start flying like a kite down the highway when the front clips let go....
They fit other cars pretty nicely but for some reason the IO is slightly narrower at the front then the back so my front clip on roof racks kept slipping/falling out on long windy trips.
I did end up ratchet strapping whatever i had on the roof to the car BUT this was a very dodgey fix... Considering the proper roof racks I wanted that fit into the roof rails are $300 delieverd and my dodgey free ones kept scratching my paint work I scrapped them.. Think it was the Rhino brand I was looking at??
Good luck hunting!! UNFORTUNETLY pretty limited unless you have roof rails for a permanent solution
Intake options
in response to the turbo fan spinny things:
IMO they can't possibly make any difference for the positive and I'm too worried about failures to try it.
My iO has been using quite a bit of fuel lately - a combination of a 10 minute drive to/from work , larger tyres, and my driving style!
I've been wondering about another option - a pipe running from my air conditioner into the intake hose in the same spot as the turbo fan shown above. I've heard of using air con for cold intake before, but in a more permanent manner. My idea would be to somehow rig up a Y piece valve which can be controlled seperately to the main air con by a second little dial. For example, put the Y piece on the footwell air outlet, and so I turn the air con to the feet position, then have a second valve/dial to either get cold feet or cold air intake to the engine.
A small in-line air filter could be sourced.
I've definitely noticed a massive drop in power on hot days, a combo of hot air coming into the engine and using the air con. So if you then turned the dial to be half face and half feet (engine) then you can get a bit of cool air on you, without losing much power/ fuel consumption.
Just an idea at this stage.
Mate I don't know how to say
Mate I don't know how to say this without sounding rude. The second you turn your air-con on you are losing power and going to go thru a crap load of fuel in the process. And to put a pipe back into the intake is rediculous.
Where are you from ? Maybe a country that is hot all the time.
If your car is running hot all the time then you need to cool it some how but Not thru the aircon as it will do what I said above and heat your engine up as soon as you use it and there fore fighting a big loosing battle.
I have sat down with 2 high performance specialists in the last couple of days and have come up with a salution to my problem ( more combustable air into the intake and cooler) there fore creating more power and less consuption. I am still diciding whether it is actually worth the trouble and cost involved witch isn't alot but I have so many more important things on my plate at this stage (Maybe At A Later Date).
Going back to some0ne who asked fore details as in a dyno test, I did ask and not willing to put out $90 for a test that will so me that i have gained maybe 1 - 7hp.
The costs don't just add up to me.(sorry).
And just quickly go back to these supercharger fans and the quality of them. They are very well made and have checked mine over a few times now and there is No sign of any wear and tear and this is over the last 4yrs so I trust them 99.9%.
Air con
the idea is to get cooler air into the engine, better fuel atomisation, cleaner, more efficient burning. There are purpose made 'second air conditioners' that people have fitted to their cars for this purpose and the power gains outweigh the extra power required to run the air con unit.
Yes in Sydney in summer, it is very hot and humid, and I generally run the air con at least 70% of the time I'm driving, even if only to keep the windows from fogging up. If I could direct some of the cold air back into the engine it would help a little, but I'm not sure about the logistics of how to pipe it in or how much benefit it will bring.
Natsterr arc box
maybe grab an ARC box from a jap import place - big heat insulated intake box with AC feed - cools the entire intake box and provides thermal mass to keep the air cool - the "cold-bulb" style methods with the cooled node in the intake are not great for small engines like ours
re: io in hot humid weather - I run e10 in mine in summer as the e results in cooler burn and balances the issues with humidity
E10
re: io in hot humid weather - I run e10 in mine in summer as the e results in cooler burn and balances the issues with humidity
You wrote this in another post
The elcrapo fuel with ethanol robs you of torque making your motor work harder on the highway when going up hills chewing more fuel. Unless you are running the "BOOST 98" (98 octane + ethanol) brand I would immediatley shift to BP ultimate 98 or shell 98 octane. you will see immediate power improvements and driving the same speed will see an economy increase.
Here....http://pajerio.com/forum/rubbish-fuel-economy-motorways
I am just trying to understand how a crap fuel can help ??
Happy io
E10
I thought that your reply to Liz in that other thread was about the E10.
My understanding was that ethanol has less energy than petrol and that was why you use more of it. And that fuel with ethanol have a higher octane rating but you will use more of it. I was told that the E10 here (in Canberra) was 95 octane but it may have different E10, no idea !!
I have tried different fuel, I am happy with the 98 octane and it last me a bit more and power is a bit better....but that's me.
Happy io
Ok, Sorry Bob but when it
Ok, Sorry Bob but when it comes to E10 you have your head in the clouds. I have done many tests with E10 and normal Bp91, Shell 91 and caltex 91. E10 burns hotter and tends to burn out valves and burns faster there fore going thru more fuel per tank. The worst E10 you could possible get is either the stuff from Woolworths servo's or Liberty Servo's. I don't even use that shit in my lawn mowers.
I don't use 95 or 98 but maybe i should but all I can say is that if your using E10 all the time or even part time you can count on blowing up your engine as it is shit so if you like doing your valves and head gasket from time to time well then go ahead and use the crap.
Unless your engine is actually built for E10 or E85 then stay the hell away from it. It does untold damage to your engine.
I have pulled down so many engine and then found out that the ppl were using E10 crap. STAY AWAY.
Claude, 95 is Not E10. 95 is
Claude, 95 is Not E10. 95 is way better than that crap. I think if your car runs slightly better on 95 than what it does on 91 then use it as it is not as expensive as 98. It's just I have tuned my cars very well on 91 and don't see the need to go to a 95 or a 98. I will try a 95 and see how my car goes on it.
.
Claude, 95 is Not E10. 95 is way better than that crap. I think if your car runs slightly better on 95 than what it does on 91 then use it as it is not as expensive as 98. It's just I have tuned my cars very well on 91 and don't see the need to go to a 95 or a 98. I will try a 95 and see how my car goes on it.
Thanks, I understood, I meant the level of octane in E10 is the same than the 95 unleaded (which is 95 octane)
There is a site that say than all Mitsubishi post 1986 can run E10 http://www.fcai.com.au/environment/can-my-vehicle-operate-on-ethanol-blend-petrol-
I am no expert in fuel quality, but I have heard/read too many bad story about E10 that I will stay away from it. Not many problem being reported by using the 98 octane unleaded (and my io drive very well on it:))
I don't want to start a "friendly war" on fuel, I am not qualified on the subject and have little knowledge in this field, but I wanted to understand the idea of using E10 in hot humid place as being a good thing (or helping in what way and why)
Happy io
No worries mate, I still
No worries mate, I still reakon they should bring back the Leaded fuel. It had much more punch to it. I was working for mitsubishi back in about 1984 - 1987. I drove the Cordia Turbo's alot and when they went to Unleaded they lost so much power. I gave a leaded one a bit of test one day (brand new) out near Mt Druitt, Western Sydney, I got it up too 215klm on a stretch of rd about 2.5klm long. When the unleaded version come out I could only get that up to 195 on the same piece of rd.
Bring Back Leaded Fuel.
E10
Hi Guys,
no idea about the bulk of the ethanol brands you were talking about - I only tend to use BP 98, boost 98 and the 100 octane 10% ethanol fuels you occasionally see at unitied or Shell when they are doing a V8 special (not as often up here in QLD though)
Currently I use the 98 octane however the 100 octane and 98 octane 10% ethanol fuels are magic if you are running boost or any agressive cam as it provides the ability to run higher spark advance and the atomisation has a much higher intake cooling effect than the regular 100 octane av gas or BP98.
I don't run ethanol often in my io as the fuel filter looked brassy and I've had issues with long-running of ethanol and brass but if heading out for a 4gtuner or boost cruise i'll run a tank through it.
ethanol burns valves when the ECU is not set with a wide band sensor and does not detect the leaning at low throttle openings - this raises combustion tmps and can burn valves - as far as I am aware the io does run a wide band sensor and is OK. If you are looking for a cruising towing long distance fuel then go BP98, if you are looking for a wide open throttle power or forced induction fuel then the ethanol 98 and 100 octane fuels are great.
leaded or any combustion retardent additive is great for generating more torque, not great for high advance but for general driving much better.
interesting fact: placing your hand in an icecream bucket of leaded fuel (i.e. washing a carb or spark plug) will cause lead to be detected on your breath in about 40seconds.
Not that I want so much choice; I'd never know what to fill with.
I'd be dithering all day at the pump.Bob, there is not 10% ethonal
Bob, there is not 10% ethonal in a 98 fuel nor is there 10% in a 95 fuel. Ethonal took over lead in our fuels but reduced less power and caused more damage to excessive burn temp but shorter burn time. Currently the fuel we have in Aust is: 98 octane, 95 octane 91 octane, E90 and E85 (which not many vehicles run that). We also have diesel and bio diesel (which is not that common yet) but the company's are trying very hard to promote it.
Tell me where we can buy the 100% octane (the old leaded fuel) and I will go and buy it. Because I would love to run that stuff in my car. The closet your going to get to 100% is the 98 fuel and it doesn't matter where you get it cause it is all very much the same.
And just for you guy's that
And just for you guy's that run a diesel, did you know that you can add a certain amount of unleaded to your diesel to give you more punch without comprimising the engine (without blowing it up). Some companys do it to there trucks to save on diesel.
not sure what the ratio is but it is done all the time.
Yeah Nah
Um no, what you're mistaking is the old blue blend, it's not ulp and ulp should not go in diesels. Lpg injection misters were common but I've not seen anyone recently with them however I only deal with current line haul fleet not backyard operators.
Boost 98 is 98 octane 10% ethanol (e10)
The shell vpower racing was 100 octane 5% ethanol but you only seem to see it in SA now.
The 107 octane fuel at United is also 10% ethanol (e10)
all of the above fuels are great in turbo or supercharged applications - not for long cruising with minimal throttle or grannies.
Never looked at the 85 octane ethanol blend stuff sold as E85 - not that poor yet.
Do not overdo it
And just for you guy's that run a diesel, did you know that you can add a certain amount of unleaded to your diesel to give you more punch without comprimising the engine (without blowing it up). Some companys do it to there trucks to save on diesel.
not sure what the ratio is but it is done all the time.
It is a very small amount. It clears injectors etc. and you should not overdo it as the seals do not like it. Rather like adding a commercial injector cleaner like STP etc.
Ok guy's I can see this is
Ok guy's I can see this is going nowhere fast so just use what ever works best in your car and what you are happy with. 91 or 95 or 98 whatever it might be. I have to say tho before I go out of this arguement that 98 has not got 10% ethenol in it. Otherwise it would be called E90 ???
E10
I thought that the E10 was 10% ethanol and that the E85 was 85% ethanol independently of the level of octane in it. Anyway, I don't think that Natsterrr will be able to get the "boost98" as it might not be avail every where. I think we agree that the standard E10 is not the best fuel to use. So the advice to use E10 when hot and humid is wrong but you meant to say to use "boost 98" from united petroleum (premium98 + 10% ethanol) that have 10 % ethanol (but it is not called E10 :)
I found this, it does have a list of avail fuel at the end, including the "boost98"
http://www.mynrma.com.au/blog/category/fuels/e10-fuels/
Lucky we fixed that one before Natstrerrr goes and buy some .....E10.....lol.....instead of "boost98"
Have I understood ???
Happy io
you are correct
Hi Claude you are correct -
http://www.mynrma.com.au/blog/2011/07/08/petrol-grades-available-in-nsw/
the e10 is the 10% ethanol fuel with varing octanes - the boost 98 and 107 octane are the ones best for turbos as the atomisation results in a larger decrease in intake charge temp - if your engine runs positive pressure or a large overlap cam this will increase performance - if your engine is stock-as-a-rock and you drive to the shops like nanna don't bother.
avoid if you do not have a wide-band fuel sensor - my io at least (2002 MPI ) is wide-band - i'd assume the gen 1 io is the same.
avoid if you have brass fittings or jets in your fuel system (my fuel pump appears to have a brass intake screen) as brass tends to grow corrosion with ethanol.
E85 is flex-fuel and only suitable for "flex" engines and comes in various octanes (85, 92 and 107 are common).
You can run this quite successfuly in a standard engine but it requires re-tune as the advance curve and fuel load need to be adjusted otherwise you will run lean and cause piston and valve burn (exactly same issue as running LPG in ULP engines without retune)
This is brilliant in supercharged or positive pressure applications or with large overlap due to temp drop during atomisation and incidentally run in the V8 supercars
Many of my friends who drag race street/strip run E85 107 exclusivly however you need to retune - you cannot tune based on idle jetting it must be with a wide band lamda sensor and measured under load.
My engine is up to 255,000kms now - at about 275k i will be rebuilding it and I'll be rebuilding for an agressive cam and E85 tuning.
high milage
My engine is up to 255,000kms now - at about 275k i will be rebuilding it tuning.
Hell, I can't see mine getting to that mileage
. It'll be without a body well before then, tinworm will have eaten it away.
I do help it along with approx 1000kms a week for my commute to work. have been driving the peugeot recently though
Traffic jams v open road
I do help it along with approx 1000kms a week for my commute to work. have been driving the peugeot recently though
I sometimes think that driving a lot and so blowing the wind through the nooks and crannies is better for them. Plus you have greater distances to travel than in England. We measire a journey in miles, you in hours. Though lately with traffic so bad I sometimes measure in time more than distance.
almost spot on -
Ok guy's I can see this is going nowhere fast so just use what ever works best in your car and what you are happy with. 91 or 95 or 98 whatever it might be. I have to say tho before I go out of this arguement that 98 has not got 10% ethenol in it. Otherwise it would be called E90 ???
fuel with 10% ethanol is e10
fuel with 85% ethanol is E85
both e10 and e85 come in various octanes - many of the e85 octanes were 85 octane which doesn't help with identifying it at all and lots of people fill up on e85 not realising the fundamentally huge difference in the fuel.
back in the early 2000's the cheap 85 octane poverty-fuel was listed as e85 - different to the E85 we have now. only my mower runs well on 85 cotane :(
Toyota Camry's are bad for
Toyota Camry's are bad for that. They tend to crack between 2 and 3 cylinder.
When I was having problems with the front section of the iO's exhaust I left the heat shield off and it started burning the fire wall and that sound proving stuff, was lucky it never caught fire so everything all back on as it should be. The last thing I need is for the car to catch fire as I am driving.
So when I get extractors it would be wise to use that heat wrap bandage stuff then hey.
Way better now
dont take it off might be alright but do a long trip or hard driving and melt all plastic and wire on that side of the engine bay,as i found out the hard way!
Car's gone now, sold it for a massive loss and I got a Junior - no comparison so far. I'd score the iO I had as 1 out of 5 and the Junior is 4.5 out of 5.
Hope this helps
So you reckon the Junior is better than the iO, what would you say the difference is between the 2 ? And what size motor is in the Junior ?
Gosh, how long have you got.
Undoubtedly the Pinin is a more luxurious car and might have a few mod cons that the Junior lacks such as height adjustable driver seat. Also both have what I wanted, namely a non transverse engine with systems easy to reach for easy maintenance. Now it might be that my Pinin was a lemon BUT I searched for a replacement and all the ones I found had similar problems the worst being rot. That might be because they are all used on UK roads in the winter, a recipe for rot as we use salt.
Having said that I love the Junior and I have to admit it came with a string of faults probably as the last (and only UK) owners were women.
Interestingly the same applied to the Pinin, two female owners; the Pini came with a string of faults like a sunroof that would not close, a rotted fuel fuel filler pipe, leaking half shaft seal caused by a grinder damage on the shaft, ATF warning light flashing. Most of the faults were not discovered until I had the motor for a few days. Some faults occurred later like the idle and throttle sensor and throttle body problems.
TheJunior came with a rusted fuel filler pipe but it has not needed replacement. It has a lot of surface underbody rust but thankfully no rot. The speedo had not worked for ages, the temp gauge is not working and neglect in the maintenance department had to be seen to be believed (like no oil in the engine and alloy wheels that were so badly corroded they were a disgrace).
One advantage for me is the cheap road tax as it is only 1100cc engine yet despite that it is a very nippy motor possibly because of the rear axle gearing though having only three gears it will never be a motorway stormer.
Maintenance-wise everything is much more manageable than the Pinin and the Pinin was fairly easy itself.
Room in the Junior is at a premium and the rear seats just had to go - they were a bit of a mockery anyway!!
Pinin's front suspension set up makes wheel/tyre flexibility very limited with many changing a lot of it to accomodate off road tyres,
The Junior has the size of the Jimny but has the front suspension of a Vitara. The Jimny's Achilles heel IMHO is the front axle, king pins and CV joints which the Junior lacks. So if you want a small 4x4 the Junior to my mind is a better choice than the Jimny for that reason though many love the solid front axle on a Jimny.
In short the Junior is really a small Pajero (not Pajero iO but the real Pajero) where the Pinin is another breed altogether and I like the fact that Junior is truer to my 2.5TD Pajero.
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H76W Mitsubishi Pajero
What is the red car in the background? It is not a Pajero Junior is it? Looks nice.
The red car in the background is my 5 door, Pajero iO, apart from the paint (and the roof rack) identical to the silver one.
The picture was taken from the upper floor of my daughter's office after I parked my iO alongside.